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Post by jwagner on Sept 3, 2015 16:40:04 GMT
One more pic, sort of a before and after. You can see the rear is raked higher.  |
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Post by einy on Sept 3, 2015 16:59:01 GMT
Regarding lights, I am using incandescent fronts (motorcycle sourced parts) and incandescent side markers (from Grote - hard wired into the harness that runs to the rear lights) with LED rears (also from Grote). Load on the flasher with 2 incandescent lights and 1 LED seem correct for either left or right turn signals (might flash a little faster than the stock setup, but not by much), but 4 way hazards only give a very brief flash on the rear LED's although front and side incandescent lights flash as expected. Any experience / thoughts on something like this, Jim  |
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Post by jwagner on Sept 3, 2015 21:23:31 GMT
4 way hazards only give a very brief flash on the rear LED's although front and side incandescent lights flash as expected. Any experience / thoughts on something like this, Jim I'm pretty sure the hazards flash period can be changed by changing a resistor, depending on the vintage of your car. See if this helps: mevowners.proboards.com/post/58214 |
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Post by jgilbert on Sept 3, 2015 21:25:30 GMT
This will work, I followed Trident's post and worked fine.
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Post by einy on Sept 3, 2015 23:02:07 GMT
The interesting thing is in my case is that an individual side signal light use (either left or right) flashes all lights just fine. The hazards however, won't illuminate the LED rear lights but do flash the front and side incandescent lights.
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Post by jwagner on Sept 4, 2015 3:19:43 GMT
Finally got the idle sorted out, which has been a problem since we bought the donor. Traced vacuum leaks to the #2 and #3 injector seats, which were not fully down into the intake manifold. Shoved them down to seat them and the car idles now for the first time since we bought it. It might be unrelated to the original idle problem since the head has been off and cleaned up and the injectors rebuilt, but in any case it seems to be fixed.
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Post by nomdenom on Sept 4, 2015 17:29:15 GMT
The wheels are RPF-1 15x7 +35mm offset. They rub.  Dare I ask what size spacers you have ? And what tiresize ? |
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Post by jwagner on Sept 5, 2015 20:30:40 GMT
No spacers. Meant to check tire size this morning and forgot.
Edit: tires are Goodrich G-Force R1-S 205/50-15
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Post by jwagner on Oct 6, 2015 4:17:03 GMT
Exocets get way better when you can drive them. Anyway, here's a picture of the car at the Milwaukee Mile in the rain a couple of weeks ago. The car survived fine, the non-waterproof camera did not do as well.  The car had Koni yellows and HR Race springs and they were too soft. The tires actually hit the headlights in the autocross slalom.  Changed to VMaxx coilovers, which was in next year's budget.  There is less than zero clearance between the axle and the adjuster ring until the ring is up over the axle. Won't know how high this puts the rear up until we finish remounting the radiator higher and get it out of the garage to measure it, but it looks like six inches+ in the rear on an uneven garage floor. I'm thinking the rear helper springs need to come out. |
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Post by jwagner on Oct 6, 2015 4:26:11 GMT
On to body mounting. Re-mounted the radiator as high as it could go against the intake and it's still a bit low. Don't have a pic of it, but we had to drill the center of the nose out on the bottom for the radiator drain. The nose sits up against the bottom of the radiator on the bottom, and on the idle adjust screw on the top. The problem we're sorting out now is that the nose is too far forward. This is as far as we can pull it back.  and when it's back that far, it's solid against the lower side mounts  Not a great pic, but you get the idea. And the upper mounts are about 3/8" away from the nose. I'm thinking that the lower mount needs to be bent in and the upper mount bent out. Anyone else been here and have a better solution? |
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Post by einy on Oct 6, 2015 11:30:49 GMT
On to body mounting. Re-mounted the radiator as high as it could go against the intake and it's still a bit low. Don't have a pic of it, but we had to drill the center of the nose out on the bottom for the radiator drain. The nose sits up against the bottom of the radiator on the bottom, and on the idle adjust screw on the top. I cut out the bottom of the nosepiece directly under the radiator. After that, everything fits just fine. Before doing this, I had exactly the same fitment issues you describe. As things sit now, I could adjust the hood to sit a bit lower to the frame if I wanted to, but that would cause gauge cluster wiring to contact back lip of the hood (always something to tweak!). Gap at the moment is ~ 3/4" (a bit more towards the rear, but that is because the center of the hood back there sits lower than the sides do if that makes sense).
At this point, the only mounts I am running are (4) total mini Quiklatches - all on the top surface of the hood. At the bottom / front corner, I put some rubber rub strips along side the frame, as the nose was pretty close to touching (inside of nose touching outside of frame on lower corners.) So far, with admittedly only a bit of road time, no issues noted. Fastest run up was ~ 70 MPH so far.
One other thing - I recently put self-adhesive Thermotec insulation on complete bottom side of the hood surface. This made a HUGE difference in removing an incessant rattle of the hood while driving. The Quiklatches allow some up / down movement, and the added weight (yea, I know .. the 'enemy'!) seems to have settled this down a lot.
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Post by jwagner on Oct 6, 2015 14:07:34 GMT
Thanks. Wanted to keep the full nose for Aero (hopeless, I know) and strength, but I might have to break down and cut the front back for the radiator. That solves a lot of fitting issues. I do want to keep the side mounts for stability and am thinking I can just move the bottom mounts down to put the mounting holes below the frame tube and flatten them out so the nose slides back the extra two inches (or just fab some new mounts).
Exomotive still has bodywork mounting instructions up in the build guide for the two piece nose.
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Post by einy on Oct 8, 2015 0:28:08 GMT
I just don't see any way the nose could fit without the bottom being cut.
On the plus side, I also saw no increase in flexing of the nose once I cut mine. I was careful only to go far enough to fit the radiator with about a 1/2" gap to the front of it.
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Post by jwagner on Feb 20, 2016 22:28:05 GMT
Been working on getting titled and registered in Wisconsin. Called the DMV and talked to a guy who sounded older and like he had been there for a long time and he was happy to see if he could assist. First he congratulated me on having a running kit car, said the vast majority of kits never get finished to the point of being on the road. Anyway, to talk to the state about a title, I need lots of docs and receipts, the title to the Miata, taxes and fees, the origin docs from Exomotive, etc. Apparently, if you build a new car in Wisconsin, it must comply with all current safety and emissions standards. Reproductions and hot rods and reconstructed cars are exempt from all that. The best approach to titling the car is to declare it a reproduction. The state wants make, model, year of a specific car. Meet our Exocet 1966 Lotus 7 clone:  Looks like a pretty good facsimile if you ask me www.leftcoastclassics.com/1966-lotus-7/extras/bodygallery/index.html |
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Post by jon on Feb 21, 2016 0:27:24 GMT
So the state is considering it a 1966 lotus 7? Interesting.
Any problem in that the certificate of origin says 2015 Exocet?
Being a lotus 7 may help you with insurance. A number of classic car places that rejected my exocet happily insure lotus 7s.
Looks good, btw!
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