Chassis 88 (SoCal)

[clintavo]

this is how I ended up arranging the rear brake junction. It required disassembly to install the chassis/sub frame bolt.

[clintavo]

These threaded spacers from Lowes were PERFECT with the addition of a flat washer per side. There is a 3-5 mm gap under the fuel tank.
[img src="i66.photobucket.com/albums/h264/clintavo/IMG_2173.jpg" style="max-width:100%;"]




For those concerned with shock transmitted from the chassis to the tank, know that the mounting points on the chassis are not overly rigid... some shock absorption is provided by the flex.

[clintavo]

No roll-over valve. Should I put an evap canister on the open tube, or just block it? Is the electric plug for (no-longer-needed) emissions stuff?

[JIDiesel]

Dec 27, 2014 8:37:55 GMT clintavo said:

No roll-over valve. Should I put an evap canister on the open tube, or just block it? Is the electric plug for (no-longer-needed) emissions stuff?

Your tank looks to be from a 2000. The switch (pictured) controls the electrical valve on connected to the charcoal canister that would be located on the lower side of the fuel tank. Are you running a stock computer?  Are you keeping the car in a garage? if so it would be recommended to keep the canister. 

[clintavo]

Unfortunately, I tossed all the emissions stuff.

Stock computer (for now) in a garage. Aside from the fuel smell, is blocking it likely to cause drivability problems?

[linuxd00d]

Dec 27, 2014 8:37:55 GMT clintavo said:

No roll-over valve. Should I put an evap canister on the open tube, or just block it? Is the electric plug for (no-longer-needed) emissions stuff?

So Mazda eliminated the rollover valve starting in 2000? My 1999 has one. What the heck?!? Does it mean it's not really needed?

[steadfast]

That is one clean gas tank! 2000 was the new redesigned tank. An EVAP canister would likely work. As for the sensors, I left mine all plugged in. Although I don't really think it matters.

[clintavo]

I am installing the braided brake line kit (very complete and worth every penny), and can only find a single front line from the master cylinder. The donor had ABS... do I need to source a non-ABS master cylinder?

[lhintze]

^I'm at the same point and would like to know as well.

[greg]

Yep. My non-abs master has an opening pointed towards the clutch master for the driver side wheel. Ill take a pic later for you.

[clintavo]

Jan 8, 2015 19:49:19 GMT greg said:

Yep. My non-abs master has an opening pointed towards the clutch master for the driver side wheel. Ill take a pic later for you.

Cool, thanks!

[JIDiesel]

Jan 8, 2015 19:18:48 GMT clintavo said:

I am installing the braided brake line kit (very complete and worth every penny), and can only find a single front line from the master cylinder. The donor had ABS... do I need to source a non-ABS master cylinder?

You will need a non-abs master it has the extra hookup for the front drivers brake cylinder.

[Warren van Nus]

You don't need a new master. A simple $5 tee fitting would solve this problem. The thread is M10x1.0. An all-female tee could take the place of the driver's side union portion of the proportioning valve.

Another thing to be aware of is the various proportioning valves in ABS and non-ABS systems. www.flyinmiata.com/tech/stock_bpv.php

Your ABS proportioning valve will put more brake bias to the rear. This is likely a good thing, as Miatas are notorious for being overly-forward in the bias. That said, when you have your stickiest rubber on your grippiest surface, check to make sure the rears don't lock before the fronts.

[clintavo]

That's great to hear, Warren. Thanks for the insight!

[clintavo]

Made a tool for installing rivnuts, since the tools seem a bit pricey (and the mandrels can break). Used stainless rod for increased strength. Have installed 10 rivnuts, and only now feel the rod has stretched. Will use a new segment of the rod to install any more. LMK if anyone wants a tutorial on how I am installing them.