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Post by clintavo on Oct 11, 2014 7:52:53 GMT
No wing for now. Has anyone considered fabricating one that uses the horizontal roll bar as its leading edge?
I had never heard of a thread file; it took a ton of elbow grease. The Dremel alone wouldn't have gotten the thread pitch right.
I was planning on putting 1/8" of rubber (a flayed piece of tubing?) between the chassis and sub frames for mounting. Rust isn't pervasive in SoCal, but I hate to chip the powder coat. Opinions?
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Post by jgilbert on Oct 11, 2014 8:08:33 GMT
In the UK we can buy 1mm thick rubber sheet off Ebay, I would use this if you wanted to make a 'gasket' between your frame and floor. However not sure how you would chip the coating?
Everybody seems to do a good job just laying the sheet on the frame, marking it, cutting, clamping in position and drilling. do you have pre cut floors in the US? if so even easier.
Most builds in the UK use a bit of sealant between the floor and the frame which I think is more about stopping 'road' water sitting between the two surfaces.
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Post by clintavo on Oct 11, 2014 10:52:09 GMT
AFAIK, the floors are precut/drilled on the US version.
What I am concerned about is the hard mounts where the chassis meets the sub frames.
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Post by clintavo on Oct 18, 2014 17:41:49 GMT
The clutch was worn out, rear main seal was leaking, & preemptively replacing the input shaft seal. FM happy meal ordered.  A 2x4 just fits between the suspension arms, and can be propped on something to keep the engine from falling aft. The transmission can be lifted by hand and propped up for ease of access. I went with the 10 lb flywheel. The 13 lb flywheel is recommended with SCs... but figured a Rotrex (next year) puts less drag at idle? |
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Post by clintavo on Oct 21, 2014 17:39:47 GMT
I spoke to Keith at FM about the 10 lb flywheel with a Rotrex. He said the heavier flywheel should only be needed for positive displacement SCs. The kit is leaving Exomotive today. I think Kevin interrupted this (gekko?) mid coitus.   Giant white rhino head:  |
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Post by steadfast on Oct 21, 2014 20:57:32 GMT
AFAIK, the floors are precut/drilled on the US version. What I am concerned about is the hard mounts where the chassis meets the sub frames. What would be the point of the rubber? Maybe I missed that. Why not run a thick bead of high temp silicone. That is what I did on mine. |
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Post by steadfast on Oct 21, 2014 20:59:39 GMT
That also helps prevent the rattles.
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Post by clintavo on Oct 21, 2014 23:28:04 GMT
Perhaps I am over thinking it. The RTV will definitely do for the floors, but how about a thin (< 1mm) piece of aluminum or copper at the sub frame mounts?
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Post by mazdaracer on Oct 21, 2014 23:46:28 GMT
I used hardware store silicone on my floor. Found a nice grey that matches the aluminum finish and blends in. Since Mazda does not use pads on the sub frames, I did not either. Seems to have worked fine for them for 25 years:) I have got rattles in the rear panels as I just screwed them so I can remove for maintenance. I will either add the rubber u trim or thin foam seal when I take them off. Front firewall panels received the same silicone and rivets as the floor. No noise. The wiring box lid started to rattle after a few miles, it will get the u trim treatment along the back edge..
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Post by JIDiesel on Oct 21, 2014 23:47:47 GMT
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Post by clintavo on Oct 22, 2014 1:23:28 GMT
I used hardware store silicone on my floor. Found a nice grey that matches the aluminum finish and blends in. Since Mazda does not use pads on the sub frames, I did not either. Seems to have worked fine for them for 25 years:) I have got rattles in the rear panels as I just screwed them so I can remove for maintenance. I will either add the rubber u trim or thin foam seal when I take them off. Front firewall panels received the same silicone and rivets as the floor. No noise. The wiring box lid started to rattle after a few miles, it will get the u trim treatment along the back edge.. Good advice, I think I'll just bolt it together. What maintenance would require the rear panels to come off? Exomotive has the grip tape for the floors, but for complete coverage of the aluminum panels (I get migraines from the sun) any suggestions other than carpet/ spray paint? |
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Post by ImprobableConstruct on Oct 22, 2014 13:57:39 GMT
I used hardware store silicone on my floor. Found a nice grey that matches the aluminum finish and blends in. Since Mazda does not use pads on the sub frames, I did not either. Seems to have worked fine for them for 25 years:) I have got rattles in the rear panels as I just screwed them so I can remove for maintenance. I will either add the rubber u trim or thin foam seal when I take them off. Front firewall panels received the same silicone and rivets as the floor. No noise. The wiring box lid started to rattle after a few miles, it will get the u trim treatment along the back edge.. Good advice, I think I'll just bolt it together. What maintenance would require the rear panels to come off? Exomotive has the grip tape for the floors, but for complete coverage of the aluminum panels (I get migraines from the sun) any suggestions other than carpet/ spray paint? How about vinyl wrap? it comes in almost every color imaginable and seems to be pretty easy to install. There are lots of sellers on ebay and amazon. |
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Post by thestig on Oct 22, 2014 14:46:17 GMT
You could always have them powder coated as well. That is my plan.
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Post by clintavo on Oct 22, 2014 14:50:37 GMT
Cool, thanks guys. I'll look into both.
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Post by clintavo on Oct 29, 2014 1:39:25 GMT
UPS strikes again! Just rejected the kit after it arrived with the roll bar powder marred. If the damage was on any other part, I would have accepted it, but I will see that and be aggravated by it every time I drive it.   Since UPS handles things like Ace Ventura, I wonder if it would be better to have bare frame coated locally? |
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