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Post by mawdo81 on Jul 29, 2015 12:01:16 GMT
When the feed & return are looped (as in guide) the small amount of slop (designed in) in the column remains and this still opens and closes the valves to actuate the power assistance. The fluid still needs to move round the system , but this will purely be from the pressure differential created by turning the steering and moving the rack, as opposed to the power from the pump creating a pressure differential when the valves open, moving the rack.
Removing the seals, and all fluid there is now nothing to move and the steering is lighter than it would otherwise be with the looped system.
If de-powering as per FM then you can weld up the slop in the bottom end that actuates the assistance, as this is no longer needed. Tightening up the steering response further.
Does that help?
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Post by Shane on Jul 29, 2015 16:17:20 GMT
So the only difference de-powering the FM way is that the steering is even lighter.
So both techniques require the pump to be removed (obvious when i think about it)!
Are there any other pros for de-powering the FM way as the loop seems a lot easier?
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Post by colin on Jul 29, 2015 16:46:38 GMT
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Post by mawdo81 on Jul 29, 2015 16:56:45 GMT
You don't have to remove the pump but it's just dead weight ?
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Post by adelaideexocet on Jul 30, 2015 10:39:26 GMT
I've done the miatabusa depower and removed the seal from inside also welded the input shaft to remove play in the system. It works just fine and is smooth to operate, no fluid in the system so don't need to push it around (looping method) the p/steer pump and A/c compressor run off of the same belt so that belt has been removed, I'm not in front of it right now but I'm 99% sure that the water pump runs off a seperate belt. Can someone comfirm
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Post by ian360 on Jul 30, 2015 14:22:13 GMT
Certainly water pump runs off same belt as alternator - the a/c and ps were on separate belt on my engine 1.6 1998
My question on this subject is do you have to weld up the pinion shaft after removing the seals? If it isn't welded does it become unsafe? Any point in just putting the seal back on the pinion? It actually feels quite solid, not much 'slop' present when I put it in the vice as in the video? This is the bit I'm referring to
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Post by tonysoprano on Jul 30, 2015 23:42:24 GMT
Certainly water pump runs off same belt as alternator - the a/c and ps were on separate belt on my engine 1.6 1998
My question on this subject is do you have to weld up the pinion shaft after removing the seals? If it isn't welded does it become unsafe? Any point in just putting the seal back on the pinion? It actually feels quite solid, not much 'slop' present when I put it in the vice as in the video? This is the bit I'm referring to I didn't weld the pinion shaft either for a couple of reasons, the first of which was impatience! I didn't have access to a welder and I wanted to get the rack back together. Secondly, after viewing the video you're referring to, I didn't think the amount of play I was seeing would translate into anything I'd be able to feel at the wheel. That's my hope anyway. I may hate the way the steering feels when I'm actually up and running. If the steering feels sloppy I'll end up pulling the rack again to have the pinion shaft welded up. As for the pinion seal, I think I reinstalled it because it looked like it provided some additional support to the pinion shaft. I stripped all the seals from the rack for sure, but I *think* I reinstalled the pinion seal. Sorry for the hazy memory, I did the rack de-power a couple of months so I can't recall for certain. <on edit> the more I think about, I'm sure I did reinstall the pinion seal. The seal in your post looks a bit more substantial than the pinion seal in my rack. I'm guessing you have an NB donor?
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Post by adelaideexocet on Jul 31, 2015 10:03:36 GMT
It doesn't become unsafe there is just a little bit of slop that can be transferred to the wheel. Even if the weld breaks it just means that you are in the same situation as not welding it!
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Post by dietcoke on Jul 31, 2015 20:41:48 GMT
No more or less slop then is present in a power rack, ever. It's a vastly overstated concern, and to be honest, the small amount of internal travel acts as a buffer saving you some fatigue.
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Post by tacan on Aug 2, 2015 20:23:45 GMT
The slop from the pinion flexing is not enormous, but it is readily apparent on-center. The unfortunate thing is, welding the pinion is very hard to do. Emilio Cervantes at 949 racing described their setup as: welded pinion, no center seal/piston, end seals retained, holes capped or lines looped. If you don't index the pinion, it will always have some uneveness. Setup like this, their racks essentially last forever. He also pointed out that bumpsteer is a significant problem on the exocet (when lowered on serious shocks a la xidas/konis) and recommended raising the rack at least 12mm.
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