Started to depower the rack last night, can anyone advise how to remove the main shaft? Do i need a press to push it out. Also where can I buy a set of plugs to plug all the hydraulic lines?
I did follow the instructions on there last night but my rack was different to the one shown and was held in with a large nut on the end. I found another guide tonight and it says to press the main shaft out using a press.
Yeah FM guide is using an NA rack. You have a NB rack?
I was just going to leave some fluid inside the rack and cap off only the feed/return lines while leaving the other untouched on the rack to balance the pressure. I'm sure someone will come in and give reasons not to do this, but this method has worked fine for me on other cars.
Yeah FM guide is using an NA rack. You have a NB rack?
I was just going to leave some fluid inside the rack and cap off only the feed/return lines while leaving the other untouched on the rack to balance the pressure. I'm sure someone will come in and give reasons not to do this, but this method has worked fine for me on other cars.
We had a few issues trying to strip our mk2.5 rack as well, so we're with Greg on this. Fill with fluid and loop the feed/return pipes. You shouldn't have any issues doing this, the seals will stay lubricated.
I did the same... plugged each of the lines and called it done. Aside from any difference in steering feel, is there a problem with not looping the lines or removing the guts?
I did the same... plugged each of the lines and called it done. Aside from any difference in steering feel, is there a problem with not looping the lines or removing the guts?
You need them to balance out the pressure and distribute the fluid to keep the pinion oiled.
I did the same... plugged each of the lines and called it done. Aside from any difference in steering feel, is there a problem with not looping the lines or removing the guts?
You need them to balance out the pressure and distribute the fluid to keep the pinion oiled.
I was afraid of that. Time to tear it open, then. Thanks!
Don.. By doing the FM way you remove the inner seal so no transfer of fluid going on. Nothing but air inside so you can cap all openings..
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Gwnwar is right. I've done two 99 racks using the FM method. Both are working fine. I used some of the line that I had cut off, crimping it and practicing my welding until I had it right and then crimped the stublines going back into the rack and welded them shut. JB Weld or epoxy would probably work just as well.
I just did the depower and it went pretty smoothly. I ended up messing up some of the bolts though so I wanted to buy new ones to block off where the hoses were. The bolts from my rack ('97 NA) were M12 1.0 pitch, and M16 1.5 pitch. Found some pugs on discounthydraulichose.com that look like they will work for $35.
US Exocet Race Chassis #145 1997 NA 1.8L 5 speed 135K miles
The guide reads: "It is possible to cut the feed and return pipes on the power steering rack and join them with a rubber hose. This will save weight and reduce engine load. Exocet is light and does not need power steering."
What difference does it make depowring by removing the seals compared to just looping the feed and return (as in guide)?
And, what happens to the pump and reservoir when the feed and return is looped (as in guide) and what happens to the pump and reservoir when the seals are removed (as in flyin mata)?
Not to point out the obvious, you don't ask you don't know. The power steering pump is removed since its surplus to requirements, you will need a shorter fan belt to keep the water pump and alternator turning if it ran off of that