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Post by JIDiesel on Jan 13, 2015 23:01:39 GMT
In mid 2000 Mazda changed the fuel tank in the Miata there were 2 tanks used that model year. the first tank had 3 vent tubes on the fuel fill pipe and the second only had one. Also there is a roll-over vent system on the early one. As pictured in lhintze's and tehjeffman's photos. This is the fuel tank that Steadfast had the burping problems with. InprobableConstruct's is the later tank. It is the same as mine. I don't know how to properly deal with this one yet. I know the pressure switch on the top controls the valve on the bottom. I don't know how it is connected to the vacuum switch and line up front with the small charcoal can.
The point of the vent system is to control the fuel vapors. If you are not planning on keeping it in a garage in you house I don't think it matters. I would go with what tehjeffman recommends he has been running like this for along time. Don't know what type of fuel cap though. might make a difference if it is sealed or vented.
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Post by greg on Jan 13, 2015 23:12:43 GMT
It looks just like a 3/S where there is a pressure sensor on the tank and a pressure sensor in the engine bay. When the tank sensor detects pressure, it tells the ECU to vent the tank if there is enough vac in the engine to draw out the fumes.
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Post by linuxd00d on Jan 14, 2015 7:15:40 GMT
I was discussing the topic with tehjeffman on FB. I love the simplicity of his setup, but the air handler for my house heating is in the garage. I like tehjeffman's "because racecar" philosophy, but it won't make my wife happy if my whole house smells like gas :-)
At this point, I think I'm going to try tehjeffman's setup and see how bad the smell is. I'll save all that venting piping just in case...
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Post by JIDiesel on Jan 14, 2015 14:31:47 GMT
I was discussing the topic with tehjeffman on FB. I love the simplicity of his setup, but the air handler for my house heating is in the garage. I like tehjeffman's "because racecar" philosophy, but it won't make my wife happy if my whole house smells like gas :-) At this point, I think I'm going to try tehjeffman's setup and see how bad the smell is. I'll save all that venting piping just in case... If you have gas heat or water heater with a pilot in your garage leaving an open fuel tank in the garage is a big no, no not worth the risk. |
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Post by lhintze on Jan 16, 2015 0:18:33 GMT
Got the stainless lines all connected and organized, tomorrow I'll bleed em. The NRG steering wheel is installed as well.   |
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Post by ashneyder on Jan 16, 2015 0:44:59 GMT
Amazing progress. Very jealous  |
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Post by greg on Jan 16, 2015 2:43:18 GMT
I just realized the modified trans tunnel will make removing the trans to do clutch jobs much easier. That notch gives you enough room for the shifter.
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Post by lhintze on Jan 16, 2015 12:26:22 GMT
Yeah thats one good thing about it, and the additional room it gives for the seats. I'm still not happy about hacking up my new header and Enthuza Car exhaust to make it fit though.
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Post by einy on Jan 16, 2015 12:41:44 GMT
Ihintze ... are you still 'happy' with running the brake and fuel lines along your PPF vs. doing so on the tunnel sides? Looks like a cleaner / easier installation, but I'm at a point where I can make the PPF runs soon and want to pick your brain on effectiveness of this before making that decision. Also, I'm guessing you leave some front to back 'adjustability' in your lengths that can be finalized once your frame is in place, fuel tank installed, etc. ?? Any clearance issues with where you put the rear brake line t-fitting?
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Post by lhintze on Jan 16, 2015 13:05:42 GMT
There are no clearance issues at all, plenty of room for the T in the rear brake line. I did go back and loosen all the P clips and move my fuel line forward about 18" when I connected it directly to the fuel rail. There was about 18" of loose line in the back so it worked perfectly. There was enough room to reach up there and loosen/tighten all the P clips, glad I did it this way along the PPF. I also removed the rear brake line to cut it to length and re installed it.
I would recommend doing it along the PPF, you can get the lines ran before you get the chassis, but don't tighten them down yet because you will most likely need to move them a bit.
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Post by greg on Jan 16, 2015 13:10:25 GMT
Yeah thats one good thing about it, and the additional room it gives for the seats. I'm still not happy about hacking up my new header and Enthuza Car exhaust to make it fit though. Kevin assured me the NA catback would fit. Guess we will find out in a couple weeks when I get my chassis. |
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Post by ashneyder on Jan 16, 2015 23:34:53 GMT
Got the stainless lines all connected and organized, tomorrow I'll bleed em. The NRG steering wheel is installed as well. Did you have to do anything special to get the steering wheel attached? Does the horn button work? |
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Post by lhintze on Jan 17, 2015 0:16:28 GMT
I haven't messed with wiring the horn yet, that will be later lol.
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Post by lhintze on Jan 17, 2015 0:17:44 GMT
Got the fuel filter rearranged, will this work??  |
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Post by einy on Jan 17, 2015 0:26:22 GMT
There are no clearance issues at all, plenty of room for the T in the rear brake line. I did go back and loosen all the P clips and move my fuel line forward about 18" when I connected it directly to the fuel rail. There was about 18" of loose line in the back so it worked perfectly. There was enough room to reach up there and loosen/tighten all the P clips, glad I did it this way along the PPF. I also removed the rear brake line to cut it to length and re installed it. I would recommend doing it along the PPF, you can get the lines ran before you get the chassis, but don't tighten them down yet because you will most likely need to move them a bit. Awesome ... Thanks! |
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