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Post by bluecob99 on Feb 9, 2014 14:01:29 GMT
Hi guys, well its been about 6 months in the build on and off, and so far enjoyed nearly all of it apart from the surplus the parts etc. The following is done; Brakes, clutch, engine, steering, gear set up, exhaust, coolant and most electrics Ready for fire upp!! but guess what? electrical issue, as you are all aware the more you extend things the more of a problem can arise, when ignition switched on all the lights come on the dash along with the injection making there usual noises, problem is the pump doesn't work? Now this is a new pump and I've tested it (fine) there is power to the supply but only kicking out 11.7 volts, which is not enough to work the pump (obviously alarm bells go about my connections) so I've checked all the way back to the clock (speedo) which wasn't from the bike originally and found 12.3 volts going in but to my pump circuit 11.7v coming out, so being not massively electrical minded would you guys say try different clock, I have read about relays but I'm guessing they come after the clock and possibly not the problem. What do you guys think, its just I don't want to waste money I guess buying a new clock? Will post some more pics soon. Many thank, Will
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Post by edwinwl on Feb 9, 2014 18:47:52 GMT
Is your battery fully charged ?
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Post by bluecob99 on Feb 9, 2014 22:39:13 GMT
Yes edwinwl, its brand new, and tested. I've now noticed no spark, drop censor is glued along with stand censor connected, just wonder if any of you guys had this prob. cheers will
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Post by edwinwl on Feb 10, 2014 12:29:26 GMT
If a new & fully charged battery drops its voltage below 12 volts then there is a serious current drain somewhere.
You have to localize this drain.
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Post by bluecob99 on Feb 10, 2014 22:36:44 GMT
That's right its just finding it, decided to call mobile electrician to see if he can sort it, maybe a lot of wire un-wrapping!! cheers will
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Post by edwinwl on Feb 11, 2014 6:25:00 GMT
Its not so bad. If it was a good short circuit your tr1ke would be on fire.
You can start disconnecting all sensors, pumps etc. Turn on ignition and measure your battery voltage. Disconnect until voltage stays above 12 volts.
Then all the way back. Start connecting item after item and check voltage each time.
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Post by bluecob99 on Feb 11, 2014 10:17:49 GMT
Thanks mate, Ill try that method, Ill keep ya posted. Cheers Will
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Post by bluecob99 on Feb 13, 2014 16:06:22 GMT
Right, had auto bike electrician round, didn't find the problem? now I've just thought of something, do any of you guys remember the voltage your fuel pump worked at? The reason Im now asking this question is that for weeks we can't get the pump to work yet its fine direct of battery, I've measured the voltage again and its telling me 12.1 volts yet doesn't power pump, This pump was recommended to me as apparently RTR use them, my electrician said he could just by-pass the original fuel supply, has anyone done that?? be interested to know also is the 12.1 volts normal? Cheers Will
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Feb 15, 2014 20:11:00 GMT
I fitted a Facet pump instead. Been fine since.
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