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Post by Stiggy on Nov 29, 2015 18:33:37 GMT
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Post by miket on Nov 30, 2015 17:59:08 GMT
Got the rear cockpit bulkhead cut out. I'd made a card template for each side to keep their creation simple, but cut the plastic out as one piece... then decided that fitting would be simplified, and access would be improved for maintenance, by having the bulkhead in two separate pieces too. This is partly 'cos the offside side will be trapped behind the battery box and I still need to finalise the routing and clipping of the handbrake cables on the nearside. The join is top left of the tunnel in the pic below - slanting to allow the two parts to be fixed to the diagonal square-section of the chassis. A small error at the join where I shaved a little more off the bit over the tunnel where I should've left it alone on the join. Not too serious given its location. The two sides are fitted differently - the left side below inserts upwards from the floor, but the right side below has to insert sideways to allow for the handbrake cables. If I was starting over I'd have cut or drilled the rear of tunnel side to house the handbrake cables.
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Post by lukiez on Dec 1, 2015 14:39:03 GMT
That's pretty much what I did on mine, makes life easy for any maintenance in future was my excuse. In reality it was easier to handle and fit with less chance of bending/snapping the middle
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Post by miket on Dec 3, 2015 16:45:14 GMT
Got the holes drilled ready to fix, but then it occurred to me that perhaps I need to chamfer the touchable edges for the IVA test?
I think I've heard of side panels being chamfered, but nothing about the rear bulkhead's top and sides.
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Post by lukiez on Dec 4, 2015 11:36:06 GMT
The area immediately behind the seats are exempt however it can be seen if you want to keep a tidy finish and its generally good practice to chamfer or add trim as you go along in case the IVA examiner decides to poke around anywhere.
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Post by miket on Jan 14, 2016 16:36:29 GMT
Back on the Exo after the Christmas break.
Fuel filler neck/hose completed, removed, and a temporary one installed - one that I can use without putting the cover on - just in case I ever get to the stage of first start up.
Thought I'd better finish the brakes before any startup, so disks cleaned of their protective oil and did my first ever install of brake pads. The front pads were too tight when clipped in, but removing all the crud from the mount and clips sorted it out. Rears nice and straightforward.
Rear callipers duly adjusted, so next job is to bleed the brakes (and find the leaks)...
For those old enough to enjoy nostalgia; a neighbour dug out an old Gunsons Eezibleed kit for me to use - the instructions referred to "recent reservoir caps like those used from 1980" ! Not actually too far distant from my 1990 donor, but all the caps in the kit were way too small so it'll be two men and a pedal.
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Post by miket on Jan 18, 2016 15:55:06 GMT
First ever brakes-bleeding completed.
Seemed to take ages for fluid to arrive the first (L/R) corner, but turn up it did. A few minor leaks where it turned out that my rookie guess at how tight copper washers needed nipping up turned out to have been too gentle. The front L seemed reluctant to stop sending minor bubbles through so I switched to front R and then came back to front L - may have been coincidence but it seemed to help.
Washed down the areas that had leaked and left it to dry overnight so I can go leak hunting tomorrow. If all's well I'll apply some pressure and re-check and then I'll give the handbrake a try.
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Post by miket on Jan 19, 2016 18:54:48 GMT
... inspection revealed some overnight brake fluid weeping at unions & bleed nipples, but no big pools and the pistons (which I rebuilt) seem fine. Most concerning is the master cylinder banjo union - separate post raised seeking advice!
Went on to lay the loom over the car and start making connections - all with a view to trying to fire up the engine before going on to trim out excess and tidy it up. Now for some research to find best wiring diagrams.
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Post by gwnwar on Jan 20, 2016 6:19:23 GMT
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Post by dietcoke on Jan 20, 2016 6:44:56 GMT
stand on the brake pedal with all your might and hold it for 10 seconds. if no fluid, you're good.
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Post by miket on Jan 20, 2016 11:33:43 GMT
Very useful - thank you both.
I'd left it overnight using the donor seat back applying pressure to the pedal via a piece of timber, but the force would have been comparatively modest. Back to the garage soon to see what today brings.
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Post by miket on Jan 25, 2016 16:59:48 GMT
George's intuition was correct - this novice'd left a crush washer off the master cylinder banjo joint. I think I must have placed the banjo on temporarily when I was fabricating the pipe to it and failed to spot the missing washer later. New washers installed and bleeding scheduled for tomorrow when I'm sure it's not leaking. All the other joins seem to be holding dry after further tightening. Meanwhile despite best efforts several months ago my wiring labelling has failed me in the longer term on the following and without knowing what they connect to it's hard to find them just by colours on the Yorba Linda Miata diagrams. If anyone can help with either of the 2 below I'd really appreciate it. 1A & 1B. These two travelled with the connection through to the rear loom, but I don't have anything around to connect them to now!?:- 2. And then there's these 2 innocent looking things sat near the middle of the thingypit near the courtesy light that are also homeless?:- Other than tracking down the 2 above, next it'll be fixing down all the earths.
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Post by gwnwar on Jan 25, 2016 22:10:22 GMT
small single wire ones LG/B and G/R go to the thermoswitch on AC evap.unit..
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Post by gwnwar on Jan 25, 2016 22:30:09 GMT
Is "B" R/B, R/G, L, L/Y if so it goes to door.. If not please post pics of wires into plugs so colors show..
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Post by dave on Jan 25, 2016 22:34:27 GMT
I still have my loom out and labelled at work so will have a look tomorrow and see if it helps
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