Gene's build

[miatagr]

Thanks Gwnwar... Looks like I need to take the laptop out to the garage... I went to electronics school in the Air force in 1960 where we studied TUBES.... LOL.... So far I think I'm doing pretty well. I marked everything carefully and don't cut anything without the engine running and then trace each wire individually. Miles of black tape to remove... I have some removable zip ties I got from Harbor Freight and they work well in tying the bundles after removing the black tape and then being able to open them when I need to get a wire past them. Reading through the builds, you seem to be the most helpful person on here... We all appreciate it...My racing team is PIF Racing for Pay It Forward. I help a lot of people at the autox and races and just tell them I'm paying back many people that helped me in the past... You're a good example

[gwnwar]

Gene, Thanks for the kind words.. Really appreciate them..

[JIDiesel]

Aug 5, 2014 3:14:15 GMT miatagr said:

Front suspension with the adjuster at the end of the lower a arm.

Who's spindles are those and are they at the stock height or lower? Looks great with the tubular arms. Might consider going that route.

[miatagr]

Eventually, I decided the new pieces were making the car too low and not working out for me and what I wanted to do. I went back to the original, which meant putting on the FM V Max shocks. Even with those, I had to cut the upper front a arms back for clearance. This shouldn't discourage anyone from trying lowereed spindles and tubular a arms. I believe they came from a site called V8 roadsters. I took the car to an autocross which was the first chance I had to drive it hard. Unfortunately, practicing before the event turned up some bugs and I loaded it up. I made a couple mistakes in the wiring which were easy to fix. (Thanks Gwnwar).. I added a Spec Miata exhaust and have put in tail,brake, turn lights. Wiring was easy. I've bought the fronts but that's for next week. I also bought a spec Miata floor and trans insulation kit from saferacer. I velcrowed the floor in for an autocross tomorrow and will figure a way to more permanently attach them. Instructions say to rivet or glue. I think rivnuts may be more my style. I haven't done the trans tunnel yet. I'm glad I rivnutted it in because it will be easier to cut and shape the insulation to fit. I bought the Exo wing stays and a $58 wing from ebay. Another project before I find a local track day to try it out. I'm off today to set up the autocross for tomorrow. Rick will be co driving of course...

[miatagr]

Spec Miata exhaust. My donor is a 99. For my next build, I'll again use a 99 but I'll get the header for an NA and then get some cheap, aftermarket exhaust off Amazon or Ebay. I used a 99 header for this one and then had to buy a 99 Sm exhaust which I then had to lengthen to make it fit.


Tomorrow, either Rick or I will post videos of the autocross... Hopefully....

[miatagr]

I found these motorcycle tail/brake/turn lights on amazon or ebay real cheap. I figured out how to mount them without welding or drilling holes. I just fabricated 2 2 1/2" pieces of 1" ally stock to make washers for the big hole in the shock mount and used the lights original bolts. There's a thick rubber padding on the back of the lights that compresses.

[miatagr]

I put together a simple screen to protect the radiator when I do track days and maybe prevent some damage from a pylon. this also shows a cheap overflow tank I found on amazon or ebay $8. Also the big sway bar. Unfortunately, the Exo sway bar mounts are set up for an NA and NB bars hit the shocks. I had to seriously, chop the ends off this one to make it work. With newer cars becoming cheaper, Exo may want to address this problem by asking what year car the buyer is using as a donor and making the adjustment .

[miatagr]

here's a shot of the insulating floor mat I got from saferacer before I trimmed it and velcroed it in. every race car or autocross car I've built, I've needed to buy some stick on insulation and put it in the trans tunnel to keep the drivers feet from burning. this also shows the throtle stop I had to make. I also had to lengthen both the clutch and brake plunger rod to make them work properly.

Be careful when cutting wires from the fuse box. the power wire to something you don't need, like power windows may feed power to the next fuse that you do need. I removed the "room" fuse and wires thinking I didn't need them anymore and learned that they power the port you plug into to read the codes. I thought the "fan" meant the fan for the heater/AC. I was wrong. You'll now see a fan switch on my dash. I plan to add water temp, fuel pressure, air/fuel meter gauges.

[clintavo]

Very good stuff. Thanks for the update.

I wonder if stock NB sways hit?

[miatagr]

[miatagr]

[miatagr]

Decided I would try and show a couple changes I've made to my car. In the past two years, it's been a ball. Many auto crosses and track days and i've loaned it to many friends to co drive with me and all love it. After letting a couple friends girlfriends drive it, I got a call the next day. When so you want to sell it?.... My local Porsche club puts on track days and I'm an instructor. They require fenders so I've tried to use the ones Rick bought and first the P clips would break. So i welded bars on the supports and the supports would break at the mounting point. I'm no expert but the metal looks like it was crystalized when it was originally welded. At the last event three out of the four broke so I'm planning to not use the Exo for those events but will use it for others that don't require fenders.

After letting a couple friends drive it that are faster than me, they love the handling but its like hitting a wall at 100-110 because of the lack of aero. So time to did out the hood. i was determined to make it a two piece snd after getting advice from others, it looked like cutting it straight across rather than following the lines would be the best. and by leaving a space, it would bring in cool air right by the air filter. Haven't tried it yet.

I also went to a 5 gallon fuel cell. I'll keep trying to post more pics after being successful with this one.

[miatagr]

[miatagr]

Forgot... My side panels broke so used this mesh from Lowes. I like it. As you can see, I used the mini Quik Latches. When I found that they were 1/4 X 20 thread size, I was happy because I have rivets in that size and proceeded to put them in the upright by the radiator facing out. Unfortunately, because of the slope of the cowl they wouldn't snap and that's why the upper hole is there with nothing in it. I fashioned a brace for the lower hole and put in a Dzus (quarter turn) fastener there and I also built a brace in the center that fastens with a Dzus and goes under the radiator to keep the bottom of the nose from lifting. I think it's a little overkill but if I go to a supercharger in the future? I also may need to put the wing back on when that happens.

Random thought. The fuel cell has foam in it and a sump area that sticks down below the bottom. Because of that, I mounted it where I did for the time being but my goal is to eventually move the battery somewhere else and put the tank behind the passengers seat for better weight distribution. Before anyone expresses concern, all of my formula cars use the gas tank as your seat back. the cell also came with a built in rollover valve built in so all I had to do was vent it.

I've been using a featherweight lithium battery in my STU race car and it works well. These batteries are 6" long, 2 1/2" wide, and 4" tall. WWW.wps-inc.com Part # 490-2507, 190CCA 12V/36WH

[miatagr]