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Post by R2S on Feb 4, 2016 17:19:26 GMT
Fitting the engine back to the gearbox before fitting into subframe tomorrow and I thought I should at the very least check the big ends BEFORE I put everything together (you may well ask why leave it to the day of refitting to check). Is there any particular instant gasket I should be using?
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Post by gwnwar on Feb 4, 2016 19:49:25 GMT
If the engine is running OK and crank end play is good no leaks leave it along.. There is no gasket used with pan.. it is a glued on place.. If taking pan off block you stand a chance to damage the tin baffle plate/pan between the pan and block.. If you must do it there is a spot at rear side of block each side to use a large screwdriver to help pop pan off.. Then the fun starts to clean glue off without getting bits down in the open block.. I would think twice about doing it if not needed..
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Post by R2S on Feb 4, 2016 23:12:57 GMT
gwnwar you may just be right, engine was running perfect before strip down so on second thoughts it can stay where it is as I also realise I would need the crescent shaped front and rear seals which I won't be able to source immediately any way.
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Post by R2S on Feb 6, 2016 8:59:17 GMT
As a Yorkshireman I find it hard to throw anything away, found a use for one of the old suspension bolts (that had to be cut out) as centering tool for clutch replacement. Couldn't quite raise engine high enough to meet gearbox on workbench so had to lift box by hand and offer up to engine. The tool worked well combined with the grease supplied with the clutch for input splines box slipped into place no problem (dont know what Id have done if it hadn't as i was holding box in place with one arm whilst inserting bolts with other! On the theme of real progress the engine and gearbox are now re-united and connected to the subframes (just ran out of time/light) so next visit to workshop will see wheels back on and providing I can find a body to assist the chases will be dropped on top. If you've read earlier parts of this build you'll know I am going down side exhaust route and have looked at all sort of options, looking through various mags this solution is appealing; oh and the cars not bad either.
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Post by R2S on Feb 13, 2016 14:21:24 GMT
Son home for weekend to supply the extra hands needed to flip chassis and lift on to sub frames. Interference at rear (shock top mounts) not as severe as some I have seen and I think only a slight bending of subframe lip required to sit flush Everything lined up fairly easily but ppf bolts were left loose to allow twisting of sub frames relative to each other.
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Post by gwnwar on Feb 13, 2016 21:08:30 GMT
Looking real good.. With the rear fit to sub the tubes don't touch the sub only the bolt tube why not just add a small steel washer/shim to take up the space.. No grinding or bending powder coat and paint not damaged that way.. When you get a headed make sure you get the later 1.8 type as the ports are different shape round to oval early to late 1.8s. Tape up the intake and thermo housing don't need it to become a mouse house.
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Post by R2S on Feb 13, 2016 21:21:58 GMT
If I do need to shim at rear out I was thinking of using the old bush centre tubes cut down to the required length/thickness.
Maybe a little extravagant but as Im going side exhaust with a specialist fabricator Im thinking of having a complete new exhaust including header/manifold.
All openings taped back up they were just off as a result of recent work.
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Post by gwnwar on Feb 13, 2016 21:39:58 GMT
Side exhaust would be an idea I had too. After a small round muffler by trans a 90deg. pipe above frame behind the seat to exit out the side. with another bent tube to angle it it down and out. maybe another short muffler behind seat if to loud. all inside a metal housing with heat instillation on inside.. With header just want ports to match. Are you planning on a race car or a good daily driver..
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Post by R2S on Feb 13, 2016 23:48:19 GMT
I want the car for my bi-annual jaunt to the Le-Mans Classic (trips to date have been by Lotus 7 type or E-Type) and trips around Europe so something reliable for the road but I also want something that I could use on track days.
My plan for exhaust is to drop down from header across front of footwell then inside the cill with outlet just in front of rear wheel although as per the cobra picture I might even run outside cill (will take advise from exhaust specialist on this as I am concerned about running exhaust, even if wrapped, inside and close to fibre glass body).
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Post by mawdo81 on Feb 14, 2016 7:49:03 GMT
I'm of to the Classic this year for the first time. I'll add a thread to shows and events.
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Post by R2S on Feb 14, 2016 8:48:57 GMT
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Post by R2S on Feb 14, 2016 14:09:38 GMT
Comment moved to events and shows
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Post by R2S on Feb 18, 2016 21:54:01 GMT
Posted on others thread that I didn't have the lower bars for rear body support; afraid that was a consequence of leaving so long between receipt of parts and build, they were under a tarp at back of workshop. I note on Stuarts build the upper bars of the body support sit between subframe and chassis, is this what others have done? Had an hour in building today, trial fit of pedals, steering (to establish bracket requirements), steering rack and all shocks temp fitted as chassis not yet fully bolted up ( what torque settings have others used for the chassis/subframe bolts?). Interesting to note that the Gaz Gold Pros clear the cross bar on the front upper wishbones no problem (I recall others bending this bar to clear shocks/springs on their builds). Other thing that will be obvious to those who have past this point but the rear lower brace that sits under the subframe is too long, have others just cut this off where it projects beyond front of subframe?
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Post by bigpaul on Feb 18, 2016 23:17:33 GMT
That's what I was planning to do with the brace, read some have cut, sure I read some have left off altogether, believe it was only fitted to 1.8 for a couple of years
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Post by john on Feb 19, 2016 0:33:10 GMT
Yes the upper rear support I bolted between the subframe and chassis, I basically tightened them up FT.
Yes my rear subframe had two arms which come forward I couldn't unbolt them so just cut them in situ close to the bolts.
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