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Post by Paul (madeye) on May 4, 2015 18:45:06 GMT
10 mm plate.
See Steve's, he did it to fit the mtx75 box
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Post by casesensitive on May 5, 2015 17:42:08 GMT
10 mm plate. See Steve's, he did it to fit the mtx75 box Cheers, I've half a memory of seeing that alright, which Steve was it? Is he still on here? Loopyonion is gone, as are a few other former Steves. |
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Post by Paul (madeye) on May 5, 2015 20:33:47 GMT
Loopyonion yeah,
You will find him on an alternative mev owners forum.
If you need it milling neatly let me know. I'll CNC it nice and tidy.
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Post by casesensitive on May 6, 2015 21:44:24 GMT
Hmm, I might take you up on that, I don't have anything that'll cut 12mm of mild steel anyway, save for a hacksaw, and that sounds like it could be most of a weekend and not very good.
In terms of a bush through the hole, are we talking off-the-shelf suspension bush? The donor one has quite a lot of rubber.
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Post by kiwicanfly on May 6, 2015 21:47:40 GMT
I don't have anything that'll cut 12mm of mild steel anyway, save for a hacksaw, and that sounds like it could be most of a weekend and not very good. Harden up  |
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Post by Paul (madeye) on May 7, 2015 11:31:59 GMT
Hmm, I might take you up on that, I don't have anything that'll cut 12mm of mild steel anyway, save for a hacksaw, and that sounds like it could be most of a weekend and not very good. In terms of a bush through the hole, are we talking off-the-shelf suspension bush? The donor one has quite a lot of rubber. Pm mate |
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Post by casesensitive on May 8, 2015 10:06:39 GMT
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Post by casesensitive on May 10, 2015 21:44:54 GMT
Culprit located. Good news is I don't need a new mount, but the bad news is another, far more expensive bit, isn't right and will need to be hacked up or replaced  My g/b mount used to line up, pre-powder, so I tried to figure out what's changed since then, because I was careful to attach all three mounts at the time.  What I didn't fit them, it transpires, was the manifold/4-2-1. It has too much depth rather than RTR screwing up up the mount location.   Rather than reassemble my engine crane and have to roll the car out of the garage (which would have involved putting the uprights and wheels back on), I pulled there engine as far back as I could, trimmed the bolts here and pulled the manifold off, attached. I attached some lifting straps to the tow bar of my car and pulled gently, which given the lack of wheels, wasn't too smart, but I got away with it. Took the opportunity to use shorter bolts on the roller bracket, and add another 5mm of washers to pull the aux belt tighter, as it was a bit floppy.  Et voila, lined up mount! 4x M8s now, but I'll probably replace 2/3 of them with M10s later.  S |
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Post by casesensitive on May 17, 2015 21:03:30 GMT
MGF gear cable modThe MGF gear selector cables, less their 12mm ball ends were a little too short to reach from the stopper on the outer cable to the gearbox. I ordered some M6 - 55mm threaded spacer from fleabay, but it was only internally threaded 10mm, and I needed to shorten it by 12mm. So I drilled them internaly 3/5/5.5 and tapped to M6x1.0.  Overall spacer length remaining is ~32mm after grinding, but I've threaded them almost the whole way up for more adjustability.  If any other ST170 owners need 'em, I have 3 of those spacers sitting around doing naught.
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Post by casesensitive on May 17, 2015 21:23:36 GMT
Making the bloody tunnel fitA couple of things that were stopping my rear tunnel from coming any way close to fitting. The IVA trim was too thick, replaced with some much thinner stuff. Doesn't 'cling' like the other stuff, going to have to glue it.  Another one of RTR's little easter eggs, no good reason for this bit to stick out like this surely? More powder coat to come off.  Ground it down quite a bit, sanded it down and covered in clear to keep from corroding.  Because the rear bulkhead tilts back, I had to cut the tunnel at angle, 22mm to 0.  Tried so hard to get rivets into this (broke the first one, couldn't get enough height in the floor for the second), tried rivnuts before I realised how ridiculous that was. Gave up after 2 hours and glued it with stixall.  Lined up reasonably well. Cut and bent the flaps in the bulkhead to meet the tunnel, but it's not quite done. 
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Post by casesensitive on Jun 28, 2015 21:27:09 GMT
Stuck a couple of rivnuts into the channel  Bit of thin ova-trim; probably need to glue this on, doesn't hold very well.  Tapped the tunnel and flaps to M5, pulled them in with a couple of bolts. Might need a little fettling, but a reasonable fit  |
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Post by casesensitive on Jun 28, 2015 21:30:58 GMT
Battery terminal hack V2. My previous attempt to use the terminals from an old battery were spoiled by burning off the plastic, creating a very pretty, probably quite toxic puddle of lead. Used a manual hacksaw and careful filing this time instead. Tapped the terminals to M6, cut some left over M6 threaded bar from my fuel pump extender, and right through the terminals. Best of both worlds, a bit of M6 above and regular battery terminals for the Ford loom. A little sharpie to finish.    |
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Post by casesensitive on Jun 28, 2015 21:34:49 GMT
I rather speciulatively plugged everything in where it originally came from, less the stuff I'm not putting back, hoping to at least be able to turn her over on the starter. But I'm clearly missing something, but not a thing happened when I turned the key! No power, no fuel pump, no OBD port activity. Seems I have some work to do to figure out what's missing. Probably not grounded enough of the ground lines to start with. I have a feeling my multimeter and I are going to spend many hours chasing around this when I get back from hollers.  |
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Post by kiwicanfly on Jun 28, 2015 22:01:25 GMT
I don't reckon the battery terminals will cut it like that I am afraid, you have a big current passing through a small piece of M6 steel threaded rod, it is working as a resistor. It may be part of the non-starting issue as well.
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Post by casesensitive on Jun 29, 2015 13:44:14 GMT
I don't reckon the battery terminals will cut it like that I am afraid, you have a big current passing through a small piece of M6 steel threaded rod, it is working as a resistor. It may be part of the non-starting issue as well. Hmm, hadn't considered that, my problem has all the hallmarks of no current. The 'racing' battery I bought is female M6 threaded, what should I used other than steel bolts? Copper I suppose if such a thing were available. With the Focus loom intact, is there any obvious place to measure voltage, post battery posts? Like a main fuse? I just started breaking my daily driver too (Puma), and it has had a battery replacement this year, so I know that one's good, I'll chuck it in and see if there's more life out of it, less the funky power arrangement. |
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