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Post by edvb on Oct 5, 2013 12:09:40 GMT
I got my RockBox today and installed it on the mount we welded on a few days ago. I fired it up and tested all functions. Everything works well and the amp stays very cool as it is all digital. It is very loud and clear. I am very happy with it and seem to fit well in the limited space I have. IMG_1492 by evanbelkom, on Flickr
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Post by edvb on Oct 5, 2013 18:24:02 GMT
Top layer of carbon on rear bulkhead. I had to add another layer as I had some moisture that made the epoxy look milky. I think I got it right this time. IMG_1502 by evanbelkom, on Flickr
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Post by edvb on Oct 5, 2013 19:04:01 GMT
Hi Edward, I bet a red chasis and carbon panels would look great Erik After thinking about it I am still thinking of a black or silver frame. The new exhaust is polished stainless, silver and black. The engine and wheels are silver. The headlights are chrome. The turn signals are clear and black. The hood is clear carbon and red. The rear bulkhead is clear carbon. The fenders are red. The rear fender and hugger are red. The gas tank cover is red. The calipers will be red and maybe the coil springs in front. The A-arm will be polished aluminum. I think either one will look the best to me. Both haves a nice balance overall and with the silver accent of the side bags will not have it look over the top overall. Just rethinking it.
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Post by erik on Oct 6, 2013 17:47:37 GMT
The colors are highly personal. Gloss will be great too I am still in doubt to powder my chasis in orange or red with sky blue panels I have ordered. The carbon weave looks great. It'll take a lot of elbow grease to make her shine but it will be worth the effort for sure. grtz! Erik
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Post by edvb on Oct 6, 2013 21:41:27 GMT
Well I was debating on the color of the frame after Erik's post but after discussion with Roger, black wins out. I looked at red but it would be too much with the red hood and fenders and all. Here are the two colors I decided on for the trike and why each one has its benefits. DSC00211 by evanbelkom, on Flickr DSC00288_zps3f960ef5 by evanbelkom, on Flickr Since I will have polished A-arms and a silver or gold colored shock body with a red spring and red calipers I want to look at the complete picture. Both black or silver look good for the wheel support yoke with the red fenders. Both will accent the A-arms, shock and rims. Both will look good with the chrome headlight and clear turn signal. Black will highlight the shocks, A-arms and chrome headlights more. It just has a more laid back look. The red and clear coat carbon hood will also contrast with both colors. More so with silver. Also the carbon mirrors on the frame will be more highlighted with silver. With black it will be a more subdued look. The red and black seat and carbon clear coat rear bulkhead with the red tank cover will also match well with both colors. The rear bulkhead will show more with silver. With black it will be a more subdued look. Then the silver engine and this exhaust and the side bags finishes up the back. Black will highlight this more. IMG_0864 by evanbelkom, on Flickr So by adding everything together I came up with these two colors. I like them both! Talking with Roger this evening on the plus and minus of each I concluded that black wins for what I am after so black it is.
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Post by erik on Oct 7, 2013 15:38:45 GMT
Black will be great for sure, if only black was a color LOL!! Seriously, you should make a sketch like I did to see what's in your mind. Roger prefers black on his chasis too which cancelles him out of neutral opinion IMO. Have a look at several tR1ke shemes and you will see black hides the chasis very much and silver makes her shine. any other color shines more as black The design deserves to be highlighted. Anthraxite might be a winner too! www.roadtrackrace.co.uk/MEV_tR1ke_images.htmlHave a look at comercial color settings around you. They have been made by professional designers which might help you out. Even a Pepsi can sheme gives food for thought For my inspiration I peeked at Gulf race cars and Total fuel logo which proved my color choice isn't bad at all. grtz! Erik
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Post by erik on Oct 7, 2013 15:40:10 GMT
double posted..
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Post by edvb on Oct 7, 2013 21:47:00 GMT
I think I will wait till Roger gets his back to decide for sure. Here is what the rear bulkhead will look like mounted in back. It still needs to be sanded and polished but you get a good idea how it will fit in the build. I can put some swatches of black and silver tape on the frame to see how it will look. Also going back to the A-arms I decided that the billet arm's just was not going to work within the dimensions of the shock and all. So I will fabricate the top ones out of chromoly tubing and bungs. The bottom A-arm will have a bung welded for the 3/4" rose joint as I originally was going to do. This will give me the strength and functionality that I needed. Stuart asked me to run it by some engineers which I did. They both thought this would be the best approach for my needs so I will go that route. IMG_1503 by evanbelkom, on Flickr IMG_1505 by evanbelkom, on Flickr
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Post by erik on Oct 8, 2013 15:04:02 GMT
Looks pretty neat! I'm looking forward to the new A-arm design.
br, erik
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Post by edvb on Oct 8, 2013 16:53:26 GMT
Thanks Erik This is the design I am going with. It will be made out of 1" x .083 wall chromoly tubing and chromoly weld in bungs. It will replace the billet one shown in the picture above the original A-arm. The rose joints are 5/8". This is only 1/8" larger in diameter than the lower A-arm and I can live with that. This will match the lower original A-arm that will have a new custom made chromoly fitting welded on for the 3/4" rose joint. The upper and lower A-arms will be painted the same color as the frame. With this new development The frame will be painted Black in either a satin or gloss finish depending on how tough a paint finish I can find. Right now it will be a two part urethane finish over an epoxy primer. Thanks for all the feedback Erik on the frame color but this is my final decision. It just has that racer look to it and with the custom shock and all those silver rose joints should make it look pretty snazzy I think. I am also finishing the interior of the rear bulkhead with a layer of carbon and a flat bulkhead to cover the top of the battery and start relay. When done the lower section up to the top of the battery box will be a sealed section and all I have to do is remove the six button head screws to remove the rear bulkhead to access everything underneath or when doing a valve adjustment. It should work slick. It is also a little bit higher in front so any water will flow back and be discharged to the rear of the trike. I think I have all the problems solved with my build. It may of taken a few tries to get it right and a bit of wasted money but I think I am on the right path now. No matter what it will be in the paint booth by the end of the month. 9736932161_e338e12af4_b by evanbelkom, on Flickr
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Post by edvb on Oct 12, 2013 5:23:10 GMT
Released engine from frame . Made template of floor and cut out with Sabre saw. Sanded and added another layer of epoxy on the rear bulkhead. Added another layer of epoxy on the bonnet to fill a couple minor low spots. Moving fast now. Just do not want to forget a tab before blasting and painting. A few more sanding's and filling's with epoxy and the body will be ready for paint and clear coat. God, I really hate composite work and will be glad when it is finally done. IMG_1510 by evanbelkom, on Flickr Thanks for the help from Roger, Erik, Scott and Stuart. Everything is looking good and on track. Sometime a major screw-up gets you to dig in and get it right. After taking the frame and putting it on the floor I realize how small it really is. The good thing is if you are at teardown level you are probably past the 50 present point and it should get better going forward. Any veterans post a comment on this? IMG_1514 by evanbelkom, on Flickr It will look different than a stock Eco-Exo-R but hopefully when I get done you can see the improvements I made and the reasons why. I might be wrong But willing to learn even pushing past 60 years now.
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Post by erik on Oct 12, 2013 9:28:28 GMT
Good progress here Yes composites takes up a lot of time and elbow grease but it turned out great! The improvements you made suit your wishlist but I think the stock kit is very nice already. Scott did a great job on this kit including a nice manual. I'm looking forward to have my kit home next week. A dutch tR1ke costumer will take her home from RTR's place on monday. Next week my Tr1ke will be converted to dutch plates and if motor issues show up this needs to be adressed first. I do think there is still some space and time left to start on tank brackets etc. Not sure if it will be a drop in fit. Red plz
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Post by edvb on Oct 12, 2013 16:15:09 GMT
Yes, Scott did a great job on the redesign. If I did not need the side cases it would be closer to stock for me also.
I enjoyed the challenge though and think overall it will be a great little trike that will be easy to service by myself.
Now back to sanding and fitting the floor.
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Post by edvb on Oct 13, 2013 1:15:39 GMT
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Post by edvb on Oct 14, 2013 1:26:38 GMT
Another long day!
I was able to sand and wet sand all the carbon pieces. Most are ready for the clear coat to be put on. It took about 7 hours and I have very thin fingertips now. I think it turned out well and another job done! It takes more time sanding I think to do pieces this way but it also costs less and for a one off I like doing it this way.
I will be ready for final welding this week.
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