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Post by edvb on Sept 24, 2013 18:54:51 GMT
Oh no, it looked pretty good. This will be my last build and I just wanted to have a fully adjustable suspension on mine. By being able to adjust toe in, camber, caster, shock preload and dampening would give me plenty to play with. The only thing I did not like was how the bottom rose joint was attached to the A-arm. It might be plenty strong for the application but I just did not feel right about it. That kind of started it and then looking at an A-arm that I could adjust the camber if needed started me on this quest. All the geometry is exactly the same as stock but slightly larger size and stronger parts.
I got started to the point I need to finish it now. All the mockups look good and it will meet all my needs I wanted in the system.
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Post by edvb on Sept 24, 2013 22:39:07 GMT
Good news today!
My friend who lives close by will make some new A-arms on his CNC machine. The design will change a bit but the size and geometry will stay the same. I tested the first set today and they work great. I can go from 6 degrees caster to 0 or the other direction. The travel with the Rose joints is much smoother and more free.
After talking to him during this post we decided to make both the bottom and top A-arms out of billet 6061.
I really liked how the rose joints worked on the stock brackets mounted on the frame, so having all of the A-arm match will really bring it over the top.
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Post by edvb on Sept 28, 2013 3:12:30 GMT
Made the mold for the rear bulkhead today. Might tweak it a little but pretty close to final design. The bottom of the mold is about an inch longer than the wood mockup. I was able to slip the foam mold inside the wood mold and the front angled part fits perfectly. The foam mold is an 3/16" smaller on all sides . This allows room for the 3/16" thickness of the part. The tricky part is getting it just right so it just fits between the frame tubes with no gaps. It will have six fasteners to secure it. Four will be screwed in from behind into the vertical roll bar part of the frame. I will have two angle tabs riveted to the floor in front that the bottom front will slip over and be secured with two button screws. IMG_1443 by evanbelkom, on Flickr IMG_1444 by evanbelkom, on Flickr
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Post by erik on Sept 28, 2013 10:47:24 GMT
That's even a much better shape as the mock up Should blend in real nice with the seat contour. kr, Erik
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Post by edvb on Sept 28, 2013 12:28:44 GMT
Thanks Erik
Slowly moving forward again. Hopefully will have a few layers of glass cloth bonded on today. The top front matches the radius of the frame and seat and overlaps the gas tank cover by 1.5". The rear top edge on the sides still overlaps about 1/2". When done should fit the same as the wood mockup but in the more pleasing shape. Glad you like it.
I could of sanded the sides down some more but decided against it as this give more room for air flow in the back of the bulkhead.
We will see once it is installed if I made the right decision.
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Post by edvb on Sept 28, 2013 15:08:39 GMT
Just finished epoxying 5 layers of glass cloth on the mold. Looking good so far. After sanding and fairing any little irregularities the final top and bottom layers of carbon cloth will be added. Then sanding and more epoxy until the weave is filled in and smooth. Then it will be ready for the final trimming, sanding and clearcoat. I will be so glad to get all the composite work finally done. IMG_1446 by evanbelkom, on Flickr
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Post by edvb on Sept 29, 2013 1:40:19 GMT
Shoot . Everything was looking good. I got the part fitted and reinstalled the air box. I jacked up the frame and the air box on the left front edge is touching. Only about 1/2". By rounding the corner to match the roll bar radius it ended biting me. I ended up cutting the mold and adding some foam. I reshaped the top and recovered it with packing tape. I put five layers of glass and it is curing now. I redesigned the lower A-arms so it will use rose joints on all three corners and be made out of billet aluminum. I will talk to Stuart to get his opinion before proceeding. I am not here to redesign the trike or geometry. I just to take it to the next level. I know Scott wanted an economical build but his Rocket was far from that. I want the same level that he put in his Rocket and have the drive to get that accomplished. As I said this is my last hurrah so all the help to get me to my goal is greatly appreciated. It is funny as Roger wants to make his build as close to stock as possible with a 2008 engine and tranny. I want to do the same thing but kick it up a notch higher. I loved the taillights Scott has on his build and I have the same Taillights. I kicked it up a notch by installing a BrightAssLight.com Taillight that fits between the two. And is it ever so bright! With all the intensity's and patterns you can adjust with just a click of a button. Erik and Roger have helped greatly so far and any further help to get me to my dream before kicking the bucket means a lot to me. Cheers Edward These are old photo's and the turn signals have been relocated. But you can see the BrightAssLight.com Taillight in the center. Each of the three LED's are about a watt each. I would love to hear if I got hit in the rear ( officer I never saw him) Yea right. IMG_1185 by evanbelkom, on Flickr IMG_1186 by evanbelkom, on Flickr
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Post by edvb on Sept 29, 2013 4:52:12 GMT
Waiting for the epoxy to cure. I sure am glad I test fitted it to find the problem and quickly make another part.
This one should work but I will see when it is trimmed and fitted.
If the A-arms turn out and having those polished to a chrome finish with the 4.5" chrome headlamps to balance it out I think it will turn out to be a pretty cool project.
I hope the man upstairs will continue to help me out as I feel he has been testing me these last few weeks.
Cheers Edward
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Post by Scott on Sept 29, 2013 14:28:47 GMT
Looking good Ed,
Enjoying the build progress, like your handy work,,,,
Come on get it built and on the road,,,,,
Scott
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Post by Scott on Sept 29, 2013 14:28:59 GMT
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Post by edvb on Sept 29, 2013 22:08:25 GMT
Thanks Scott If I did not have to build things twice to fit I would be way ahead. I just do not want to rush it and have this happen. I brought my print of the A-arms to the machinist for him to look it over and see what changes might be needed. He made some small changes so now I will make my master print and get the aluminum blocks so he can start machining them on the CNC. When done these will be a direct replacement for the stock A-arms and will fit any Eco-Exo-R trike.
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Post by erik on Oct 2, 2013 16:18:59 GMT
Hi Edward, I bet a red chasis and carbon panels would look great
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Post by edvb on Oct 2, 2013 19:56:44 GMT
Hi Erik
Nothing is set in stone yet. The final welding will be done very soon so I have about a week to decide. My blaster pushed me back about a week so it should work out OK. Now who is good with PhotoShop that can show me what the red or black frame with the red and Carbon GRP panels would look like?
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Post by roger32849 on Oct 3, 2013 1:49:09 GMT
Ya know Ed..... I am beginning to think you really know what you are doing.... LOL. It is ALWAYS GREAT chatting. Thanks for all the tech tips and parts.
Roger Worcester Ma
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Post by edvb on Oct 3, 2013 2:27:05 GMT
Thanks Roger Not everything turns out correctly on the first try. I think my frame is all done except for the final welding. I was able to get all the measurements for my A-arms. I ordered the extra rod ends and misalignment spacers for all four A-arms. They should just bolt on the frame and not need any washers for spacing. I sure hope I can get the layers of carbon on my rear bulkhead this weekend. I also am tearing down to the frame and getting ready to install the floor. After that to the blaster it goes. The rest will be gravy work for me. The clearance of the shocks spring in front of the top A-arms bothered me as it was very tight with the billet aluminum arms. Then yesterday I saw these. I called a few companies and they all said they can make one to fit my trike so another problem solved as the spring will miss the top A-arm ( I just need about 2" from the top mounting point to where the spring starts). It also has a rebound adjuster so I really will be able to tune the front suspension for the perfect ride. SPYDER-36-Stage1+R_Full-217x1024 by evanbelkom, on Flickr
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