Hi paul no witness hole (to be honest never heard of it but makes sense) what size should hole be and where i was thinking may need quite a bit of pressure to get grease in between bush and crush tube i haven't drilled any grooves in bush as wasn't sure about that and was assuming the grease would have to force its way between the parts?
Today we finally finished the suspension bushes. First we tried using the normal steel crush tubes but they made the bush really stiff. So we ordered some stainless steel crush tubes from polybush which has a slightly smaller diameter but they where longer so the company cut then down for us. They won't corrode and they have a smoother bearing surface and dad said they look prettier :
We also removed the inside powder coat:
The first thing dad said after we'd cleaned out the inside of the first one was' isn't that pretty'.
Then we put in the grease nipple:
then we chamfered the edges of the bushes and pushed them in:
We then greased up the crush tubes and pushed them in:
We were really pleased in the end the bushes were still tight but rotated much smoother and no squeaking.
After short holiday to Germany where jack and I were boasting about our build, and were told that you can't build kit cars in germany (is this correct??) plus the going back to school hassles we are back in the saddle or c0ckpit or whatever.
I have had a nightmare with the rear wheel bearing after forcing it into the upright and getting it jammed in then forcing it some more it finally went in but was making a really funning grinding sort of noise when it rotated after alot of umming and aaring finally decided it was bust, so have spent last 2 weeks trying to get the bloody thing out had to break it apart and then dremmel the outer race wack it alot and finally it cracked and fell out with the press so i now have :
- 1 broken wheel bearing - 25 broken dremmel metal cutting discs - A suspiciously bent upright that looks like it has been in a war zone. - a son that has lost any slight faith he had in his dad's engineering skills
so my message is
TAKE THE POWDER COAT OFF THE INSIDE OF THE REAR UPRIGHT WHEEL BEARING HOUSING BEFORE PRESSING IT IN
anyway more photos after this weekend
on the positive side picked up four alloys and tyres for 100 quid off ebay and just getting quotes to tart up and powder coat in red, and the front drive shafts have arrived and should be picking up my recon gearbox from RTR soon.
I notice other folk are getting well ahead of us
all the best
PS Oh also Hi to my dad now that he is watching this thread will have to keep garage tidier am hoping he wont be able find this page again ;D
Sorry I haven't posted in ages but I've been busy, back to School (less time ) We went to pick up the gearbox and saw some finished Rockets Mark's and Kev's, which was good. This morning we did some more work on the rear suspension. this is a plan of how it goes together...apparently, thats what dad says anyway... if anyone doesn't know which upper wishbone is front and which is rear, here's a couple of pics to show...
quite simple the one at the top of the photo is the front one, note the central pipe bit points in, unlike the rear which points out. And now for no reson other than that dad said I needed to put it in, is one wishbone on top of the other...
...Don't ask me why, ask dad, I did. Anyway, we then discovered a slight problem, as shown in the below two pics...
that side looks fine, but the other side...
...needed to change slightly...
...one pair of mole pliers and a bit of bending and a large amount of elbow grease later...It fitted like a dream...
...after the hammer, 'persuaded it' to fit. Then I filed the powdercoat off the holes for the bolts, we learned from the bearing incident what powdercoat can do when it shouldn't be there (dad's fault ) ...)
...then the bolts went in, though they needed some persuasion, unfortunately dad didn't let me show that photo , but here's them in anyway...
...which looks nice. Then we coated the infinite ajustment bolt-thingies in copper grease for ease of assembly and to stop it from seizing up...
... Then dad took a photo of a piece of the suspension (I don't know why)...
...Then we put the upright on, after the bottom two brackets were in we discovered the top bracket was about a cm off...
...Crowbar time. But dad just stomped of. I think we'll finish it some other time this week. Maybe. If we're lucky.
This was all something i encountered too and it was horrible taking the rubber hammer to a brand new freshly powder coated chassis! but this was my only option to get the wishbones to fit. regarding the rear uprights i had to get a mate round to help and we used every bit of muscle to get the wishbone ends into the upright, i have no idea why it is designed like this but i believe there all the same so dont go thinking theres something wrong with yours! keep it up anyway, i like the red too by the way! wayne.
To be honest I'm feeling happier about it as i go on, the metal is nice and soft and feels easily worked i don't think any permanent damage or weakness is being done and once you have fitted them the first time they keep their new shape you can take them apart and refit much easier. Presumably after a thousand or so miles of driving they will work harden in the correct geometry ?? Thinking about it if the wishbone bearing tube is off by a few degrees after welding then this will easily equate into cm's at the other end of the wishbone so I think it must just be the way it is.
I think Paul that it would definitely be a good plan to get all your wishbones to fit ie bending the brackets and tweaking a few struts before powder coating as you have the opportunity. It was great to meet up with you on saturday and thanks for the hospitality
I suppose it would be ideal if RTR could tweak each whishbone and brackets for each kit before they powder coated as they would also have the option of matching wishbones to a specific chassis, I can imagine making say 100 lower rear wishbones measuring them accurately then making a chassis measuring the brackets and choosing the wishbone from the 100 that fits the chassis the best, however i suppose this would be a bit time consuming and costly and would add a few quid onto the cost of the kit.