We did think about this a bit my main thought was that we hope to keep the rocket for quite a long time and I really want to try to avoid chassis corrosion as the main priority and my concern is that the any water falling on the floor tray will collect around the rivets due to capilliary action and start to corrode the holes and the chassis at these points that it was important to try and seal these so as we took the bead of sikaflex along the chasis we put a little doughnut of sealant around each hole, we also treated each hole with fertan preventer. I realise that any water in the tray will have nowhere to go but will eventually evaporate off and at least it won't be able to get into the holes, I think later we will seal the chassis/floor gap from the inside with some clear silicone sealant for a bit of belt and braces, i like th idea of drain holes but not sure if IVA ok and don't fancy water splashing up through puddles ?
I don't really know what 221 means, just chose this as i had used it for the caravan panels in past, i certainly hope i don't have to remove the floor so not too worried re pulling powder coating off.
You can remove it if needed. It's not easy, but we use it in my line of work. It's commonly used on the exterior of wind turbines. it will take 20plus years 90 metres off the sea level in an offshore environment, so the floor of a rocket is nothing.
A sharp blade down the join, and a little heat is all thats required to separate. The powder coat should be fine afterwards.
“Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well-preserved body. But rather, to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming .... WOW what a ride.”
I think i will seal the inside and the ouside of the metal the inside with clear silicone so its not so visable and i'll run along the edge between the metal and the chassis with sikaflex sohopefull no water will get between the chassis and the aluminium at all.
I'll do this at the end of the build cos all the getting in and out and work on the car will only split the seal anyway.
Thats a really nice useful toy (I found not having the right tools does hold up the build progress considerably). My mobile mechanic had one of these and it made very light work of fitting the bushes and crush tubes in the wishbones. Also very handy for fitting bearings.
BTW reading the thread above about the seals etc for the floor I did ponder about it before the start of the build but: I had a 1989 Caterham 7 (for 3 years) which had the floor riveted on (no sealants etc on it) and I also drove it out in the rain, there were no problems with water getting in the car from the floor or rust etc. The previous owner was the same so I figured after 22 years and the car floor is still in good shape there was no need to put sealants etc on the Rocket as they also might wear after 5 years.
Do we really know whether water is a issue as I am starting to doubt whether I have made the right decision?
I don't expect to take the car out in the rain much as its too exposed and there is no wet weather gear, I also don't expect to do more that 1000 miles a year.
182 BHP Supercharged 1.8 Engine and DynoTech ECU; Black and Red Rocket
Thats interesting about the caterham does it have box section steel chassis which my make a better seal naturally than the round, however i am sure that as these cars are not used much and mainly in the sunshine this is not a big issue and will be ok either way.
used the press to push in a few bushes and works a treat, i got it cos i suspect i will be taking the bearing apart a few times as i put the front ones on the rear forget a crucial spacer etc etc
If you look at the alloy tube that these screw into it is easy enough to see which ones fit which arms.
The rear bottom mount for example as quite a long. Take a look at my build guide on page 5. Basically the long ones go on the bottom so that the upright can be moved out and the short ones on top to bring the upright closer to the frame. You would never want the wheel further out at the top than at the bottom.
Started 22/6/11 Finished 13/8/12 487 Hours Build time. Now on the road, weather dependant.