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Post by BobN on Mar 5, 2013 8:24:00 GMT
I got a pro to flare my copper lines as I did not have the tool and its was just easier to be honest. Nice neat job on running those copper lines down the centre tunnel! Glad to see you radiator and pipes fit, I had to shorten the centre pipes on mine and move the radiator forward.
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Mar 5, 2013 8:33:58 GMT
i ran my pipes across the top member and welded in an upright of 3mm steel so that i didnt have to have fixings into the bulkhead. random bolts or rivets would have annoyed me. you have managed to get the pipe lovely and straight, mine annoys me with the little kinks in it.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Mar 5, 2013 9:18:33 GMT
you have managed to get the pipe lovely and straight, mine annoys me with the little kinks in it. You have to treat it like a lady Paul, gently caress the curves and a little tender massage reaps rewards. Mind you a bit of kink sometimes works as well I used three rollers in a triangular formation to make a little pipe straightener. It didn't work perfectly but got most of the curve out without adding more in. I'm going to make a few aluminium supports for fixing to the bulkhead, have considered using adhesive rather than screws so there are no visible fixings on the interior face of the bulkhead.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Mar 14, 2013 23:21:12 GMT
Head scratcher this morning.
When lining up the front flexi lines to the brakes I can't seem to find a position where the flexi is positioned not to contact a suspension member or not be stretched for all positions of steering and suspension movement.
It ends up doing one or the other.
Anyone with comments or a pic of the best routing?
Note I am using a copper / flexi combination, not flexi throughout, and intend to clip them to the lower suspension arm.
Rob
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Post by Deleted on Mar 15, 2013 8:37:07 GMT
My fronts are mounted through the front infill panels each side of the radiator. Where the flexis go through the alloy, it's backed with large repair washers to prevent any fatigue in that area from steering and suspension movement.
I get lock to lock with no issues of fouling, and my lines are not clipped to suspension. My lines were 1m length.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 16, 2013 11:56:50 GMT
Happy birthday... Hope you get some time on the car as a present.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Mar 31, 2013 8:06:40 GMT
Well fellow Rocketiers it has been two weeks since my last confession and I don't feel that I have done an awful lot, I seem to have spent plenty of time in the garage but not made a lot of progress, glad I am not paying me by the hour Finally mounted my steering rack and reckon I have finally cracked the bump steer issue. My previously documented effort hit snags in the home run when I found I had destroyed the Ackerman Angle and, even worse, found my wheels rubbed on the moved wing stay However the final setting involved a whole load of spacers which are to be replaced with a machined rack extender. The rack was also raised around 12mm. Fitted the mesh, just got to trim it to length when I make the final side panels. Made and fitted a couple of radiator top brackets. You will see I used a nice rubber grommet to add some resilience to the mount, it also took up the gap created when I put the correct sized drill along side of a 2mm larger drill on the bench and then proceeded to pick up said larger drill Also worked on the infernal tank cover, found that when the template was trimmed to allow the top of the cover to touch the top chassis member the bottom front corner was in dead line with the corner of the tank and would therefore be too small. However raising the cover and angling it back solved this problem. I have identified a suitable extrusion that I am hoping to make a bottom support from which should allow the cover to sit in nicely at the required height. The actual trimmed shape will be to the shape of this cardboard template but a bit neater at the radius. I am going to mount the full bulkhead on the rear of the chassis members and have two fill in panels on the front to close things off neatly, as I don't need to fit a cat space in the engine bay should more than adequate although I will drop the engine in before I cut the real deal.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Apr 14, 2013 9:33:45 GMT
Realised today just how low a Rocket is when lowering it to the ground from the axle stands and found I could not get my jack out However took it out for a spin, almost literally as I needed to turn it round in the garage in order to fit the engine. Have finally found a seat I like and fits, a Racetech Saker, found a 2nd hand unit only been used as a gaming seat so grabbed it. Then found out the model has been updated since mine was made so doubt if I can find a match Got my centre tunnel almost fitted, a little more work to do but close, got to open out the handbrake and gear lever holes to final size. Also managed to borrow an engine lifter so dropping the engine in is the next task. Sort of introduced the two of them today, leaving them close together so they can get to know each other. Couple of questions on that subject. Any reason why the exhaust manifold has both bolts AND studs for fixing? I have six bolts and three studs in place, the extreme left/right and the left on top row are studs whilst other six are bolts. When fitting the gearbox to the engine is there anything special that needs to be done before fixing? The flywheel is correct for the job I believe, 1.8ltr type already fitting for me. So any other things to do or just bolt the buggers together?
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Post by ncohen on Apr 14, 2013 11:12:03 GMT
Looking good mate and coming along rather quickly!
regarding the manifold bolts and studs...no idea lol
If you already have the 1.8 flywheel in place then all that needs to be done is to fit the slave cylinder into the gearbox and then mount together. That's pretty much it and then you can get it into the car and hope it all lines up correctly!
Good luck!
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Apr 14, 2013 12:48:42 GMT
I have put studs in all of mine. I don't think there is an impostant reason, as long as you pinch the manifold up to the gasket evenly
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Post by kiwicanfly on Apr 16, 2013 8:26:03 GMT
Feel like progress is finally starting to happen Got the engine in tonight Gearbox went on easy as but found I have no slave and no gearcable connctions at the box end Hopefully RTR will have them away to me pronto. Also found the torsion arm connection to the box bracket is real tight, I mean real tight. Is this a case of persuading it in or is it supposed to be tweaked to a nice fit? Appears to be plenty of room in the engine bay so can leave the rear bulkhead on the back of the chassis to allow the tank cover lip to fit under the chassis rail.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Apr 17, 2013 8:02:51 GMT
Also found the torsion arm connection to the box bracket is real tight, I mean real tight. Is this a case of persuading it in or is it supposed to be tweaked to a nice fit? Persuaded the bugger, it's in now ;D So thought.... why not pop the exhaust on as well, just a trial fit to start with.
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Post by springfield on Apr 22, 2013 11:52:31 GMT
Hello there, You are really making progress now. Regarding the studs and bolt issue, I believe it is basically for assembly. It keeps the gasket in place and also takes the weight of the manifold when positioning. These little idiosyncrasies occur as a result of mass production. Met a man from Lake Taupo last week he is working over here. Kind regards, Les.
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Post by airforceone on Apr 22, 2013 13:33:22 GMT
Looking good now, getting the engine in is a big step. I noticed that you don't have any strength bars between The roll bar and the engine engine bay side rails (were the Engine mounts are) is this by choice or are you welding these In after the engine is sorted.
Having them does make the engine fitting process a bit more difficult.
Ned.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Apr 22, 2013 21:51:57 GMT
Cheers Ned.
Dropping the engine in was a huge milestone and of course opens up more opportunities of things to work on / headaches :-)
Rear roll supports will be fitted, not sure I like the front ones though, will see.
Going to tack everything that has to be welded then strip her out and send for final welding prior to coating.
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