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Post by Deleted on Feb 17, 2013 9:48:58 GMT
8 degrees and sunny..! Travel 40 miles, and I get views like that.. today is a good!
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Feb 23, 2013 8:55:23 GMT
i think its just in their build standard 'rules book' some very funny things for them over water types.. but then some very leniant things where ours is silly
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Post by kiwicanfly on Feb 23, 2013 9:01:46 GMT
Out of interest why have you *got* to put baffles in? I'm not aware so far of any builders who have baffled the tank. Hi Paul, NZHCTM Requirement 10.1.6 "A Fuel tank fitted to a low volume vehicle must incorporate some form of baffling to minimise fuel surge during cornering, braking and acceleration forces" I argued the point that there was more chance of Breakfast Surge with such a small tank but my certifier would not budge to the point we nearly fell out, not a good position to be in when he is the one who is going to sign the car off to allow it to be legal! So side is off and baffle will be in shortly. Just read the posts about the filter, as I have made a locking ring to seal my tank rather than use RTV in I will leave the filter in place for now, will be easy to remove later if I encounter problems.
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Feb 23, 2013 9:12:49 GMT
rob, pipe pics on my diary. will updat when i tidy them up..
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Post by kiwicanfly on Feb 23, 2013 9:36:15 GMT
Cheer Paul, Dumbass here forgot he would need some sort of flex from the rigid to the clutch itself Should be getting my next shipment of parts on Monday, (missing parts list getting smaller week by week) I will then be able to get my brakes piped up next week.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Feb 24, 2013 1:51:09 GMT
Bit of tidying up odd jobs this weekend, not much progress. Mainly due from being banned from the garage. On Friday night we held the inaugural agm of the MRBNZ, (Mev Rocket Builders - NZ) the entire NZ membership turned out - 2 of us. That was ok but it was the site visit which took up all of Saturday morning (my garage) that blew it for me. However I did finish the handbrake fitting although got to shorten the cables and have proper ferrules put on the ends. Also mocked up some carriers for the various cables and piping running down the centre tunnel. Going to have the hardboard ones replaced with water cut units when I am sure everything will fit.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Feb 24, 2013 4:21:57 GMT
What is the right height for the pedal box? Either from the floor to centre of the pedals or spacing between pedal box and support?
I have size 45 (English 10) hooves.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 24, 2013 9:14:23 GMT
I can measure for you later, I have size 12's and 6'2" so you may be ok with those measurements. One of the beauties of the rocket, it can house tall people I drove a 1980's narrow Westfield hill climb car once, had to dislocate my knees to get in.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Feb 25, 2013 7:44:22 GMT
Another emergency parcel turned up today, TNT must be loving it Had silicone hoses in it, brake fittings and other assorted goodies so I popped on the silicon hoses to see what we were dealing with. With the new mark 3 (?) chassis I believe the engine bay has increased in size to fit the donor cat. Whilst I am not 100% sure I figure this has been done by moving forward the lower chassis rail. Looking at Mabbs build I saw that the hoses on the rear went vertically between the lower and upper rail quite nicely. This is confirmed by this extract from a side view drawing of this area from the earlier chassis' With the mark 3 the two rails are virtually in line which makes feeding the silicone hoses interesting. A choice between a compression kink or forcing it past 90 degrees, going to go for the latter I think. At the front it is sweet as the front cross rail is smaller in diameter but at the rear it is 2" and the bottom of the alum tube sits below the top of the cross member. Bugger really as I aint got need to fit the cat.
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Feb 25, 2013 9:02:04 GMT
im going to ash next weekend to see them about this, i sat and looked at this problem. what we need is an elongated 'S' to step it over the rail, when i researched it, all i could find were some boost pipes for a seat leon i think. i need my own pipes myself and the place is about half hour away. if you hang fire mate i will let you know the outcome.
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Feb 25, 2013 9:03:06 GMT
i fitted the firewall to try address this issue..
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Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2013 9:39:09 GMT
I havent come up with 90's on my build vertically anyway, the water pump is routed to with a 90 degree, set at 30 degrees from the horizontal. The thermostat side is a 45 degree, set at 45 degree to the horizontal. Followed by 45 degrees and a 90 degree later on. My chassis upper and lower are staggered, so my tubes are behind the rear bulkhead. Givien the design of your chassis, your tubes will be behind also, and maybe you could get the battery in there as well? Lots more room. The 4-2-1 header fouled on my build, hence the over the gearbox route. IMHO id look at 45 degrees to clear the rail, followed by another 45 to make the turn after clearing the rail. Try fitting your rear cover also to see where it lies in relation. Youll get an idea of depth you have to play with.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Mar 5, 2013 7:31:54 GMT
The inner plumber in me was allowed out over the last week. It is banned from the house after I drove a nail through the hot water pipe in the first house we owned and stained the new carpet playing with central heating radiators. However it was allowed to play with brake lines and radiators. Have no choice but to run copper-nickel lines in NZ. Can't run plain copper unless you are building a trailer or stock truck. I was supplied a Venhill flexi clutch line but decided it would look better to have all three lines the same. Started by making a template and bending jig from roller door pulleys. After numerous bends and turns this was the result The exit from the master cylinders and contour around the chassis at the top was the trickiest bit. Double 90deg where they enter the tunnel will allow flex for final alignment without disturbing the visible front end. And they run through the mock supports nicely. Got to make some clamps for the front to secure to the bulkhead but all in all I am pleased with that effort. ;D Also dropped the radiator in and plumbed it to the aluminium pipes, no clamps yet, still in the post but not an issue as I wont be filling it till final build. Keen observers will note the addition of an Idiot Strip to the radiator.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Mar 5, 2013 7:36:34 GMT
A note on flaring of brake lines - get a bloke to do it. After producing a number of crap efforts and bending a flaring tool (to cheap) the bloke who sold me the line did it while I waited for no charge I cut the line to length, he flared the first ends, they will be returned for finishing now they are bent to shape. Easy eh?
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Mar 5, 2013 8:20:32 GMT
i did some practice piece from copper first. both bending and flaring, the kunifer was a different animal..lol much harder
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