In order for me to have all the bits in place I wondered if anyone knew what thread size the master cylinders were for the pipes?
I intend to use the double and single banjo nipples but I know they are done Metric and Imperial.
I also wondered if anyone else was thinking of running made up pipes via say Venhill for the front and rear wheels?
I had tons of problems getting my brakes to seal last time and that was using the Brass 3 way units and making my own pipes with a SIP flare tool. I use to work in the trade and made them for customers so know what i'm doing, but never the less, they leeked on every point. I would prefer to get as many pipes made professionally as possible. Also the rear banjo can incorporate the brake switch so makes the whole thing a tidy affair.
Also, with regard to a removable steering wheel system, which one have you chosen to use?
3/8unf for the master cilinder, i got braided hose on mine, yet to see if this was the right descion, but it is failry exspensive to do, i did a double and single banjo bolt, had to get spare copper washers, or cut the bonjo bolt down to size, also have a banjo brake bolt direct to the M/C going to the rear.
Did the banjo turn out to be this size? The Banjo bolt I got with the kit is too short as I an using a different banjo. Wilwoods website says the inlet thread is 7/16-20 which is about 11.1mm in diameter but when I measure the bolts I got which fit it's 9.8mm it looks to me that the thread is M10 superfine but this makes no sense with an American product.
The outlet is 3/8 which I have covered. The inlet is a fractionally larger size. Wilwood says it is 7/16-20 but my micrometer says it's M10 1.0.
I does seem that you have a 10mm fine thread which is as you say very unusual for wilwood, just checked my list of parts and the the inlet fitting from the fluid res is definately 7/16, I used the cbs push on fitting with a hose clip.
It would be unusual for a company such as Willwood to deviate, either deliberately or accidently, from the stated design size.
Mine were certainly UNF.
I would guess that, being American, they don't even have a metric tap in the company either, probably waiting for that "new fangled metric fad to pass and return to proven good old American threads"
You could pop into a engineering hardware shop and try a bolt or order from a company that will let you return to swap. Personally I would get UNF first.
“Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well-preserved body. But rather, to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming .... WOW what a ride.”
Figured out the issue, the Banjo bolt I got is infact M10 1.0 (super fine) The master cylinder is 7/16-20 UNF. Astonishingly the problem is the braided break line kit that RTR supplied had three banjo bolts of the wrong type.
As with many things to do with building these things it's an RTR issue, what a surprise.
Are you ok using M20 and M12 Banjos on the slightly smaller AN sized banjo bolts? I guess the copper crush washer makes it ok but as I wasn't sure I got 7/17 eye banjos. unfortunately they were about twice the price of the ones on your list.
Also I have not looked at the electrics yet but the brake kit I got has a 3/8 Banjo brake bolt. I presume this picks up a pressure increase and sets of your brake lights.
Post by casesensitive on Apr 13, 2015 18:48:41 GMT
Yeah, when I went to order banjos (rather than banjo bolts) and the copper washers, they just supplied me with metric equivalents instead, seems tight enough, and gets around the issue of not being able to get 7/16th, which all come from Harley Davidson suppliers or the US.
Rocket build in Dublin using an ST170 donor. Driven by an ME221 ecu, Jenvey 45s on DanST manifold, DanST backplate and 90mm trumpets. Vroom vroom.