Geoff's Exocet build - Basingstoke

[phaeton]

Apr 12, 2022 13:57:49 GMT hutchey said:

Don't forget the drip dray under the tank.
Why keep the canister thingy anyway? Not needed.

Without wanting to open the proverbial can of worms, a drip tray is not the only way, it only a needs method of stopping any leaking fuel getting onto the hot exhaust, 

[hutchey]

Yeah exactly that.

[geoff]

Apr 12, 2022 13:57:49 GMT hutchey said:

Don't forget the drip dray under the tank.
Why keep the canister thingy anyway? Not needed.

The Canister is deleted? Re drip tray, I have used the factory one and will instead shield the exhaust.

[geoff]

So lots done, I had a falling out with my rivnut tool, reverted to a bolt, washers, and nuts and that worked well in hard to reach areas, and then went back to rivnut tool and straightened the threaded end and cleaned up the thread, and now all good again. This was after a week of trying to use rivnuts to attach the ends of the side panel, a week I do not want to dwell on! In the end I made up a couple of steel plates to cover each of the rear ends (hide some holes) and help to spread the load.



So now going to try and use rivnuts along the bottom, down the whole length.

Today, was a break from Rivnuts and I installed the front ARB, being a NB 2.5 the ARB is 22mm, larger than on the Mk1 and Mk2, so ordered up some SuperPro bushes. On the ARB there are ring stops to help position the bushes but using these as guide does not line up to the mounts on the frame, so I gave them a love tap and they slide along, and then decided to get the angle grinder out and remove them completely, I don't want them ratting around. Brackets were needing a freshen up.



Ally also received for the wiring tray, and I will be tackling that one over the next couple of weeks. This week work takes me up to Burnley for a couple of days so not expecting to get too much done this week.

[geoff]

It's all moving along nicely, I was not happy with the wiring tray design, it was a rectangular tray and left a gap on the passenger side, so got the cardboard out again and redesigned, I also modified the corner tabs and I think i am there now, the ally I ordered is now too small for this design, but I may use that for steering column surround, or handbrake cover...or battery box...blimey so much to do..



I got the other side panel on, not so much drama with rivnuts, I think my issues were all related to me trying to crimp them too much, I am being much more successful in being a lot less aggressive.



A couple of little jobs, I got the wiring tray CAD flattened and new Ally ordered.



Got the gear stick surround painted.



And test fitted the radiator and checked clearance with bonnet.



The bonnet will need some trimming around the ARB, but it looks like plenty of room for the rad, so now have to design some mounts to hold it in place.

Off to Stoneleigh tomorrow to have a good look around and get some ideas, and may well order the seats, and lighting pack.

[geoff]

Hi All,

Moving along nicely, first up the wiring tray, the ally arrived and I set about transferring the template and then cutting out with a jigsaw, and using a workmate and lumps of wood, and clamps to get all the folds done...



Very happy with the end result, and very satisfying building from scratch.

Next up the radiator, I am using the donor rad, a NB 2.5, so top and bottom mounts required, and I fabricated them all from 1.5mm steel and very pleased with the result, held in very firmly and the bonnet just about clears.



I then took a look at the bag containing the wiring loom, and had to have a word with myself, stop moving ahead too quickly, finish what I have already started... so will take off the rad brackets and get them all painted, then will get a prop valve for the rear brake line and get all the front lines p clipped in...then ...and only then...will I move forward onto wiring....Ha!

[geoff]

So, the lower rad brackets needed some additional strength, they flexed too much, so addedd some gussets, and with my rubbish welder and my poor skills managed to get it done.



Now the rad does not move at all, and brackets all painted.

I took a sabbatical from the front the of the car and moved onto installing the handbrake cables and handle. The cables on my donar were toast, so new ones sourced from Autolink with Exocet Facebook group discount. The holes in the bracket where the cables connect were not large enough, i suspect the powdercoat being the issue here, so ran though a 21mm drill and that made it a perfect round hole for them to seat in perfectly.



Next up, drilling three holes for the lever...scary...measure, test fit, measure, test fit, pray, measure, test fit.....then go for it....



Phew....back from the sabbatical, onto the front brake lines, took some time to explore all the route options and checking for full range clearance when steering lock to lock...all done....
 


I am connecting the HEL brake line kit directly into the master cylinder, and using a Prop Valve on the rear brakes to reduce the brake power to the rear to stop problems with the rear locking up. No issues with getting a bracket made and fitting it all in....but not sure how I am going to make it IVA compliant, in that it should not be possible to adjust it...The handle will not come off easily, I will probably explore that further..

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So moving on nicely, next step is to plumb the Prop valve to the master cylinder and considering using copper for that...lets see how that goes.

Have a good week everyone.

[hutchey]

I thought the brake servo already had it's own proportioning valve as part of it?
I haven't got an external one and went through IVA fine.
Unless of course you want to be able to adjust for the play times

[phaeton]

May 18, 2022 8:11:23 GMT hutchey said:

I thought the brake servo already had it's own proportioning valve as part of it?
I haven't got an external one and went through IVA fine.
Unless of course you want to be able to adjust for the play times

Yep, I think you are going to cause yourself a whole host of problems with that valve, I've IVA'd 2 without modifying the brakes on any way shape or form. My advice would be to put it in the bin until after IVA

[geoff]

Hi...I have been reading he IVA docs online and it appears that I just have to ensure that the Prop valve is wire locked, to stop any adjustment, therefore the valve being used for initial setup only. The prop valve that was on the donor was not removed, at least that is what i believe because I cannot find it anywhere....but that is only a 50/50 prop valve, i believe, and will result in rear lock ups with the abs uninstalled.

[phaeton]

I don't know anybody who uses their kit on the road that has any problems, I've also tracked both of mine without any issues.

[geoff]

Re-reading the IVA doc and the wiring up of a prop valve is only allowed on dual master brake systems, and otherwise adjustable prop valve are a complete no no. So removing it and putting my lines direct to the master cylinder and will add the prop valve after the IVA.

[geoff]

So moving on to earth straps, one on the engine and one on the petrol tank, that one to earth any static electricity near the explosive stuff,



I then decided that before I attach the rear cover I should have the wiring in place to make sure it all has room...well that was my excuse anyway, so retrieved the loom from storage and wow...so much of it...



My plan was to lay it all on top of car where possible, and wire in temporary earths, to see if she wakes up...



And.....YES!!!...the dash lit up, so pleased, the earth cables I have used are no way big enough to get the starter motor to turn over, but that is for another day, the next step is to remove all the wires I do not need, slowly, checking everything works as I go, and then routing in their final homes. I am on holiday for week, I tried to convince the wife that she should go on her own and I would stay at home and have 7 full days of working on the car....no chance...but I wasn't serious...or was I...ha!

[phaeton]

On the earth strap to the tank, put it in a place where it can easily be seen, I have heard of people being asked to remove the tank cover to prove it has a separate earth. If you do it in a place where it can be seen it negates that. Also with the wiring, consider putting a jump lead from battery earth to engine & actually start the car with all the wiring in place then start chopping, otherwise you may cut something that's needed if only doing it static.

[geoff]

So slow progress at the moment, we now have a new 9 month puppy that we have rehomed so I have lost 40mins in the early morning walking the dog and leaves no time to work on the build in the week, but on the flip side means this will take me even longer and I won't be thinking "what next" so much!  Currently thinking it will be an old motorbike complete rebuild...stop, back to the Exocet!

So the battery earth to frame and frame to ppf was looking very ropey, the crimps all look like they have been pulled and for the sake of a few quid I replaced the lot, with a new clamp on the battery too. Found a spot under the tank to connect to the frame and then tried to start the engine.



The starter motor turned....very slowly, I ran a dedicated earth to it, no change, so out it came, put in on the bench and tried to test and it just laboured, so strip down or replace......bugger it, I just replaced it. Put in the new starter and the engine turned and then fired into life...so all good for starting the final positioning of the wiring and the stripping of the unnecessary wiring.

So started with the ECU sorting position and loom route, thinking that I will mount the ECU with a nut on the bolt to lift it from the base to aid cooling, but then... if it is flat on the bottom of the wiring tray will that actually help dissipate any heat build up...probably over thinking this one.



So off to find a decent step drill that I use for the holes in the wiring tray and let's see what I can get done this weekend.