Post by kev80 on Jun 6, 2019 13:51:42 GMT
So, I've seen a couple of threads talking about breaking bottom rear wishbone bolts through the hubs when removing them, so I thought I'd create a quick guide on how I removed mine, which were stuck fast.
First, clean the bolt, nut and thread with a wire brush. Also pay particular attention to cleaning the part of the bolt that is exposed in the middle of the lower end of the hub. Put a breaker bar on the 17mm nut and apply firm constant pressure. If the whole bolt trys to turn, your won't have too much drama getting it out (lucky you), but I doubt it will. When the nut is free, wind it out so it is flush with the end of the nut, and give it a sharp whack with a copper mallet, or a hammer, but protect the end of the bolt with an appropriate lump of wood.
Assuming it doesn't move, make sure everything is as clean as you can get it. I wire brushed, then hosed it with brake cleaner before covering it all in WD40. Make sure you get it in the gaps between the hub and wishbones, and around the exposed section of bolt. Don't be shy!
Now grab a breaker bar and a 21mm 6 sided socket. Most bolts on a car will have been mullered at some point by someone trying to remove them, so one tip here is to apply pressure in the opposite direction first (as though you are tightening the bolt). Again, apply plenty of firm constant pressure. The instant the bolt head cracks, turn it back the other way. Keep alternating direction until the bolt turns freely through 90 degrees in either direction without the aid of a breaker bar.
Now, remove the nut if you haven't already, and use a suitable long punch to drive the bolt out. You can clean up the remaining rust later!
Pay special attention to cleaing the bolt (the shiny bit below) as this is where they seem to stick.
Hopefully this will save you the £20+vat per bolt to replace them.
Good luck!
First, clean the bolt, nut and thread with a wire brush. Also pay particular attention to cleaning the part of the bolt that is exposed in the middle of the lower end of the hub. Put a breaker bar on the 17mm nut and apply firm constant pressure. If the whole bolt trys to turn, your won't have too much drama getting it out (lucky you), but I doubt it will. When the nut is free, wind it out so it is flush with the end of the nut, and give it a sharp whack with a copper mallet, or a hammer, but protect the end of the bolt with an appropriate lump of wood.
Assuming it doesn't move, make sure everything is as clean as you can get it. I wire brushed, then hosed it with brake cleaner before covering it all in WD40. Make sure you get it in the gaps between the hub and wishbones, and around the exposed section of bolt. Don't be shy!
Now grab a breaker bar and a 21mm 6 sided socket. Most bolts on a car will have been mullered at some point by someone trying to remove them, so one tip here is to apply pressure in the opposite direction first (as though you are tightening the bolt). Again, apply plenty of firm constant pressure. The instant the bolt head cracks, turn it back the other way. Keep alternating direction until the bolt turns freely through 90 degrees in either direction without the aid of a breaker bar.
Now, remove the nut if you haven't already, and use a suitable long punch to drive the bolt out. You can clean up the remaining rust later!
Pay special attention to cleaing the bolt (the shiny bit below) as this is where they seem to stick.
Hopefully this will save you the £20+vat per bolt to replace them.
Good luck!
