ok a little more progress but the truth is that it's been a real battle getting the trans tunnel cover to fit, seal and be removable at the same time.
I used M6 rivnuts and screws but had to dig 3 of them out when they started spinning with bolts in them. Anyway, at long last I have the tunnel in and sealed using sections of the Miata trunk/boot seal rubber along the front bulkhead and around the frame near the shifter. I added some rubber edging to both seal and prevent undue rubbing.
I also installed the factory boot rubber but found I needed a "spacer" which I fabbed out of wood for the time being.
My OCD isn't going to tolerate different bolt heads on that shifter boot for long...
On a side note my wheels also came in and they look great. They have a custom hubcentric insert and this weekend will get some rubber so that I can at long last adjust the suspension and more importantly drop the body on the frame.
Are you using Aluminium or Stainless rivnuts? I know Stainless are way more expensive but I felt they could be fitted very tightly without danger of stripping threads with the tool and seem to hold better. Also only used the ones with splined body.
A few cobalt drill bits the right size for each rivnut also help to get a clean and accurate size hole, normal HSS bits can tend to produce a bit of an octagonal hole when drilling thin material or box section.
I'm using stainless rivnuts that are splined but if I crank too hard on my tool I do occasionally get it "pop" out and damage the threads. (This only seem to happen with M6 rivnuts and below.) I think the advice on getting proper drill bits is absolutely key and something I've been approximating.
The other piece of advice I got which seems to have also helped is to "key" the hole so that when the rivnut deforms into the opening it locks itself (apparently you can also get rivnuts with a key - might try those next time)
getting back into the swing of things, finishing up the lower rear panels. I decided to put the rear wiring loom through the middle which will get covered and and not punch a hole through the passenger panel. Due to my LHD donor my cables are reversed but it all works out.
The big white connector was relatively easy to de-pin and re-pin to get it through the panel and grommet.
Next up was to finalise the location of the ecu, fuse box/panel, relays and dimmer switch so that I could tidy and and wrap the last of the loom and close off the top of the bulkhead with some removable panels.
Here's a clearer shot of how and where i located the various bits and pieces, largely dictated by the wiring harness:
How do I secure the dash panel in place?
I test fitted the dash and as I've seen from others, there's a little trimming that needs to be done to accommodate the steering column but I'm unsure where to bolt the thing into place and whether it needs to be insulated/padded.
You are going to need another pair of hands as the dash panel's position is ultimately determined by the body (as well as the steering column etc.) - so the two need to be temporarily fitted together. First, fit the body's mounting brackets supplied in the kit as these will help support the body whilst you determine its 'best fit' position with regard to height, the dash and centralisation of the wheels in the arches etc. This is a fiddly job which requires a lot of measuring/checking and is not to be rushed but with a little patience you will get there. I do have some measurements which may help as a guide if required (but each body will be a little different due their being handmade) The dash is fixed to the tabs on the chassis - but I fully expect you'll have to standput something like a 20 - 25mm spacer between the two to achieve correct alignment.
Did you have to use any heat to flatten the fixing ends of the lower frame rails?
I was planning to do this but looking at depth of rails (sliders) I have decided to use angles roughly where the ANC chassis has the longitudinal rails (my base is MEV and doesnt have these rails). By mounting my seats direct to the angle (they wont slide so will be fixed for my leg length) I will be able to fix everything in place without bolting through floor (no bolt head to reduce clearance and get clouted when going over speed bumps).
Once car is on road I may well go back to looking at the MX5 donor seat runners.
Cars in the Workshop Replicar - 1998 Mk2 1.8 donor Honda Civic Coupe SR Discovery TD5