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Post by lemans75 on Mar 28, 2019 23:01:31 GMT
I'm with you on being able to see the level, which is why this expansion tank has a trick up it's sleeve...
If you look closely in this photo you'll see a little clear tube with some liquid that shows the tank level which I'll be able to see with the body on.
Here's a shot from the rear which shows how it works (I can move that tube to the front side if I want to) The hose next to it is the overflow to the ground.
The radiator is definitely not original to the donor which might be why I don't have the mounting points RS2 mentioned.
Here's the link to the item on Amazon if anyone is interested:
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Post by lemans75 on Apr 3, 2019 0:06:06 GMT
ok a little more progress but the truth is that it's been a real battle getting the trans tunnel cover to fit, seal and be removable at the same time.
I used M6 rivnuts and screws but had to dig 3 of them out when they started spinning with bolts in them. Anyway, at long last I have the tunnel in and sealed using sections of the Miata trunk/boot seal rubber along the front bulkhead and around the frame near the shifter. I added some rubber edging to both seal and prevent undue rubbing.
I also installed the factory boot rubber but found I needed a "spacer" which I fabbed out of wood for the time being. My OCD isn't going to tolerate different bolt heads on that shifter boot for long...
On a side note my wheels also came in and they look great. They have a custom hubcentric insert and this weekend will get some rubber so that I can at long last adjust the suspension and more importantly drop the body on the frame.
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Post by tojeiro on Apr 3, 2019 9:25:53 GMT
Are you using Aluminium or Stainless rivnuts? I know Stainless are way more expensive but I felt they could be fitted very tightly without danger of stripping threads with the tool and seem to hold better. Also only used the ones with splined body.
A few cobalt drill bits the right size for each rivnut also help to get a clean and accurate size hole, normal HSS bits can tend to produce a bit of an octagonal hole when drilling thin material or box section.
Love the wheels.
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Post by lemans75 on Apr 3, 2019 14:27:23 GMT
I'm using stainless rivnuts that are splined but if I crank too hard on my tool I do occasionally get it "pop" out and damage the threads. (This only seem to happen with M6 rivnuts and below.) I think the advice on getting proper drill bits is absolutely key and something I've been approximating.
The other piece of advice I got which seems to have also helped is to "key" the hole so that when the rivnut deforms into the opening it locks itself (apparently you can also get rivnuts with a key - might try those next time)
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Post by snowbird1 on Apr 4, 2019 13:56:53 GMT
I apply a drop of Loctite to the outside of the rivnut, taking care not to get it on the threads, I feel it helps to lock and seal it.
However I have no evidence that this does anything except make me feel better!
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Post by lemans75 on Apr 6, 2019 22:10:37 GMT
Stupidly excited to have the wheels on with new rubber (205 60 R15). It also means I can get my jack under the car without having to lift the car onto the jack
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Post by lemans75 on Apr 29, 2019 12:31:40 GMT
getting back into the swing of things, finishing up the lower rear panels. I decided to put the rear wiring loom through the middle which will get covered and and not punch a hole through the passenger panel. Due to my LHD donor my cables are reversed but it all works out.
The big white connector was relatively easy to de-pin and re-pin to get it through the panel and grommet.
Next up was to finalise the location of the ecu, fuse box/panel, relays and dimmer switch so that I could tidy and and wrap the last of the loom and close off the top of the bulkhead with some removable panels.
Here's a clearer shot of how and where i located the various bits and pieces, largely dictated by the wiring harness:
Question: How do I secure the dash panel in place?
I test fitted the dash and as I've seen from others, there's a little trimming that needs to be done to accommodate the steering column but I'm unsure where to bolt the thing into place and whether it needs to be insulated/padded.
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Post by ancsportscars on Apr 30, 2019 9:35:37 GMT
You are going to need another pair of hands as the dash panel's position is ultimately determined by the body (as well as the steering column etc.) - so the two need to be temporarily fitted together. First, fit the body's mounting brackets supplied in the kit as these will help support the body whilst you determine its 'best fit' position with regard to height, the dash and centralisation of the wheels in the arches etc. This is a fiddly job which requires a lot of measuring/checking and is not to be rushed but with a little patience you will get there. I do have some measurements which may help as a guide if required (but each body will be a little different due their being handmade) The dash is fixed to the tabs on the chassis - but I fully expect you'll have to standput something like a 20 - 25mm spacer between the two to achieve correct alignment.
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Post by lemans75 on May 4, 2019 1:15:26 GMT
Body mounts are next in line. I thought I would dig through the scrap pile and dig out the old engine mounts I had saved from the LHD subframe since my RHD sub frame came with mounts.
Here's what I end up with:
Question remains if this has enough meat to play the part but nothing ventured, nothing gained.
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Post by lemans75 on May 11, 2019 22:30:44 GMT
Front grill is in. A little unorthodox but I think it works well.
Here's a side view:
And here's the view from inside that shows the setup:
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Post by R2S on May 13, 2019 13:50:36 GMT
Would also help if you were going to use the right uprights(as viewed from front) to make a duct to take air up to air filter intake. (been thinking about something similar).
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Post by lemans75 on May 13, 2019 17:39:34 GMT
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Post by lemans75 on May 27, 2019 21:55:13 GMT
Got something done this long weekend, decided to take a page out of Tojeiro's book and coat the inside of the shell. Did some research and called around and it seems the local favorite is a poly coat used for truck bed lining. Got myself a tin of the stuff and applied it to the inside of the main shell. Still have the bonnet and boot to do... While that dries I'll finish wiring up the rear lights.
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Post by lemans75 on Jun 13, 2019 13:39:37 GMT
Here's a quick update on installing the original Miata seats. The plan is to replace these with more period looking Kirkey seats but for the time being and to pass inspection I'm putting in the original ones.
To make this work I had to modify the seat pan a little. All I did was gently bash it in a little so that it didn't rub. I also cut off the pointy pins and the seatbelt mounting part and bent the bolt holes flat.
Here's a photo of the setup showing the parts cut off:
Here's the final positioning and the nice part is that the slider still works as it should so that I can access the battery which will be located behind the passenger seat.
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Post by R2S on Jun 14, 2019 16:49:26 GMT
Did you have to use any heat to flatten the fixing ends of the lower frame rails?
I was planning to do this but looking at depth of rails (sliders) I have decided to use angles roughly where the ANC chassis has the longitudinal rails (my base is MEV and doesnt have these rails). By mounting my seats direct to the angle (they wont slide so will be fixed for my leg length) I will be able to fix everything in place without bolting through floor (no bolt head to reduce clearance and get clouted when going over speed bumps).
Once car is on road I may well go back to looking at the MX5 donor seat runners.
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