|
Post by lemans75 on Jun 14, 2019 18:39:59 GMT
The fixing ends had a lip facing the ground around the bolt hole and I ground those off so that I had a flat mating surface. With that done the rails still had those fixing ends bent downwards so I simply popped each end in the vise and straightened them. You can see in the second pick the holes are marked red for the next step which was to drill a hole and pop in an M10 rivnut and bolt the seat down. I chose this method so as to avoid having to bolt straight through the floor/rail.
|
|
|
Post by R2S on Jun 15, 2019 13:17:32 GMT
Not sure a rivnut would pass IVA here in UK for seat fixing (would welcome comments from others on here and will post a question on the face book site).
After eighteen months I had a morning in the workshop and had a look at the runners compared to angle and I'll probably be sitting about 40mm lower using angle.
|
|
|
Post by R2S on Jun 15, 2019 17:57:56 GMT
Posted on FB (ANC/MEV Replicar Group) consensus is IVA fail in UK but more importantly 'unsafe'
|
|
|
Post by lemans75 on Jun 16, 2019 14:17:07 GMT
Thanks for the info and keeping us safe! It looks like I'll have to rethink the seat setup.
@rs2 - do you have a pic of your angle setup you can share?
|
|
|
Post by R2S on Jun 16, 2019 19:35:11 GMT
Have a look at Scott's East Kilbride build, he posted a picture that I am using as my base.
|
|
|
Post by lemans75 on Jun 28, 2019 12:48:22 GMT
Rear lights are in and I thought I would share since what looks to be a straightforward job turned out to be a bit more difficult than I expected with some lessons learned.
There are 2 main problems: - The recesses for the lights are too small (at least on mine) to accommodate the outer silver ring which also acts as a locking mechanism since it squeezes the lip securely around the lens.
- Putting screws in from the lens side interferes with the edge/lip of the lens.
My first attempt was to use the 3 holes in the bulb holder lined up with the holes in the rubber boot. - The problem here was that I could not get the lenses on once tightened down.
My second attempt was to use the two larger holes and use some log profile machine screws so that i could hold the shaft from the back and tighten the nut to squeeze things together. - The problem this time was that the screws interfered with the lens
The solution that worked for me was to use screws from the inside to catch the smaller holes in the bulb holder. This allowed me to pull that bulb holder to the body with the lens in place and thereby squeezing the lips onto the lens to hold them firmly in place.
I think I'll tidy things up further by cutting off the outer rubber lip as others have done.
|
|
|
Post by lemans75 on Jul 2, 2019 12:41:29 GMT
Decided it was time to hide the wiring and find a place for the OBD2, dash dimmer and fuse box. I fabricated a basic box and will add a removable door for the fuse box.
Dash progress is slow. I've cut out the instrument panel pieces but getting everything to fit is proving to be trickier than I bargained for. I did however find a very nice piece of matte black marine vinyl to cover the dash with
|
|
|
Post by lemans75 on Jul 8, 2019 18:03:40 GMT
Another milestone - first test fit of the body:
|
|
|
Post by R2S on Jul 9, 2019 17:47:20 GMT
I do like those wheels.
|
|
|
Post by lemans75 on Jul 15, 2019 19:47:19 GMT
Sharing this because it drove me crazy for a couple of days. As you can see below, the lights are behaving erratically. The annoying thing is that everything works exactly as it should without headlights or running lights turned on but with them on, the indicator starts flashing all sorts of weirdness.
So I thought to myself that i must have mixed up wires at the rear lights but I put the original lights back on and same thing so that crossed that off the list.
Then I thought that it might be my rewiring of the X-08 connector (rear harness to main harness) that I de-pinned and re-pinned to get it through the rear bulkhead.
The culprit turned out to be a bad ground. This little fella (in the spotlight) turns out to be quite important and bolting it to the petrol tank didn't provide the earthing it needed.
It took less than 5 mins to relocate it and get a good ground and now everything works as it should with headlights on or off.
|
|
|
Post by lemans75 on Jul 15, 2019 20:02:51 GMT
The battery tie down was also a fun little re-purposing project. In the pile of left-overs that I didn't bin I found the foam lined collar that held together components of the HVAC box. The nice part is the clip so i separated the two halves and riveted on some alu extensions that were themselves bolted down. I'll eventually have to place the battery in a weatherproof box but this works for now.
|
|
|
Post by R2S on Jul 16, 2019 20:15:15 GMT
In my experience first port of call on any electrical issue on GRP cars is always earths (grounds), was always the earths at fault whenever the lights developed a mind of their own on my Lotii.
|
|
|
Post by tooold on Aug 14, 2019 17:49:29 GMT
Greetings lemans75, Since there is no privet messaging on this site, I guess that this is the only way that I can contact you. I live in central New York and I would like to ask you about shipping. I would greatly appreciate your contacting me at Leoh@sunyocc.edu
Thanks! Howard
|
|
|
Post by lemans75 on Aug 19, 2019 13:51:53 GMT
I didn't like the exposed battery and happened across an ammo case which are almost the exact dimensions of the stock battery. I did line the lid with rubber to prevent a short circuit and punched a couple of drain holes. The case is bolted down and the battery simply sits in there out of the way.
|
|
|
Post by lemans75 on Aug 30, 2019 19:57:57 GMT
Finally got some tinkering time and progress was made...
I closed off the gap between the body and the top of the frame:
I used pretty thin gauge Alu sheet and bent it towards the camera so that the weight of the body seals against the springiness of the sheet.
|
|