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Exocet
Oct 17, 2010 20:44:59 GMT
Post by sscrow on Oct 17, 2010 20:44:59 GMT
I have 2 questions for the guys at the factory. Has an exocet managed to pass an iva test yet. How long is the delivery wait on an exocet kit. Thanks
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acra
Newbie
Posts: 16
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Exocet
Oct 24, 2010 8:28:23 GMT
Post by acra on Oct 24, 2010 8:28:23 GMT
As far as I understand, all models MEV make are built to test standard - but I echo your concern though - has an Exocet passed an IVA yet?
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acra
Newbie
Posts: 16
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Exocet
Oct 29, 2010 10:43:23 GMT
Post by acra on Oct 29, 2010 10:43:23 GMT
I've also posted this on the relevant thread on the Pistonheads website, but I'm curious as to the dimensions of the Exocet compared with an average 7-style roadster.
What are the dimensions of the car? Length, width, height of body etc?
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Exocet
Oct 29, 2010 12:41:11 GMT
Post by Kevin Patrick on Oct 29, 2010 12:41:11 GMT
I am unsure about the height, but Stiggy posted earlier that the Exocet is 3400mm long and 1680mm wide.
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acra
Newbie
Posts: 16
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Exocet
Oct 29, 2010 18:48:03 GMT
Post by acra on Oct 29, 2010 18:48:03 GMT
I am unsure about the height, but Stiggy posted earlier that the Exocet is 3400mm long and 1680mm wide. Ah cool, cheers for that! I hadn't been paying enough attention
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acra
Newbie
Posts: 16
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Exocet
Mar 10, 2011 15:39:45 GMT
Post by acra on Mar 10, 2011 15:39:45 GMT
Hey guys, I've a few more questions...
How are people getting around the potential for corrosion in the chassis? I know the chassis can be ordered Powder-coated, or done yourself, but once you've drilled holes in it, aren't you risking corrosion within the tubes/frames themselves?
Also, thinking about the rollbar... I know you can get the MSA spec bar at a cost, but looking at the standard bar, it doesn't look all that substantial (doesn't look like your head would be that safe, and looks too far back in proportion to where you sit) That might just be the photos, but I've had a roll-over in a regular car and the car saved my life - not an experience I'd like to repeat, but if the worst case happens I'd like to know I'm safe-ish.
Last question for now is build costs. I believe it is do-able to have the cost down to what the website says, but what's a more realistic budget?
Cheers!
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Exocet
Mar 10, 2011 16:32:18 GMT
Post by Kevin Patrick on Mar 10, 2011 16:32:18 GMT
acra, Tim (tlight) tried to get all his holes drilled before the frame went to the powder coater. I went the other way and had it powder coated before drilling. I certainly see the potential for rust to be introduced through my method. Does anyone know if it is worth it to use some sort of paint on the sides of the holes that have been drilled into the frame before adding rivnuts or threading? Maybe something like clear nail polish? I went with the MSA spec bar and am very satisfied. I figured this was going to be a fun road/track car and I wanted the added safety and more substantial rear harness mounts. I did not weigh it, but I bet it is 60-70% the weight of the rest of the chassis... beefy! Build costs - I am probably a bad one to compare to. I had the extra cost of getting the kit over to the US which is a significant percentage of the overall kit cost. Throughout the build I have also decided to replace a lot of my donor parts with new or refurbished units. Even doing that, I am pretty amazed how inexpensive the Exocet will be. I don't think I would have a problem turning around and selling it for much more $ than I put into it - not a chance in hell though! That said, I think a typical UK builder could easily build the Exocet at the cost that MEV describes. It will depend on your personal desires for the how you want the car to turn out. You will have to make use of more of the original donor parts which can be good or bad depending on your goals. On the other side, you could also go nuts and easily spend 20K to create a trailer queen 400bhp/ton+ turbo monster. Just as an closing comment - I can't begin to put into words how much fun I have had investigating, researching and building the Exocet. The challenge it presents and the feeling of satisfaction it provides is not found in many other activities - and this is just the beginning!
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acra
Newbie
Posts: 16
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Exocet
Mar 10, 2011 17:12:25 GMT
Post by acra on Mar 10, 2011 17:12:25 GMT
Thanks for that reply Kevin, very comprehensive I've been considering several kit manufacturers since it'll be a few years till I'm starting (I'm currently halfway through an aerospace engineering apprenticeship so funds are too tight right now!) but my key feature would be the whole 'build-it-yourself' kind of deal - so power isn't a necessity for me! Hell I'm even toying with the idea of some sub-1.4 litre based cars! Looking at the pics of the MSA spec bar on your build diary, definitely looks more substantial compared to the standard bar, and that extra weight I imagine would balance out the front engine weight... It'll be interesting finding ideas for preventing corrosion, as I fully intend the car to last a very long time. In my apprenticeship so far I've learned about a paste kind of substance called JC5a we use for preventing galvanic action between surfaces when attaching aircraft skin to the frame (stringers etc), but I don't think that would be sufficient. I've thought fleetingly about some kind of inner-coating, but imagine it would be a pretty difficult thing to do! On a different note, I've noticed most people are riveting their floor panels on with blind rivets where the mandrel section is removed from the rivet once formed (can't remember the type, think they're pop rivets)... I know they're the cheapest type, but wouldn't it be safer to use a rivet designed to leave a section of the mandrel behind (such as cherrymax rivets used in aviation)? Just thinking this because a pop-rivet is useless with Shear loads - unlikely loads in a car, but I'm wondering if it's possible during cornering. On the other end, rivets with a solid shank are far more strong in Shear load situations. Probably just trying to over-engineer the thing!
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mattsmev
Senior
It's only Rocket science...
Posts: 726
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Exocet
Mar 10, 2011 17:55:51 GMT
Post by mattsmev on Mar 10, 2011 17:55:51 GMT
Hi Acra
I have built a Rocket. I had it powder coated but have obviously drilled holes in it since then. I have used a syringe to out some wax oil in every hole ensuring some of it goes on the edges of the hole. When the floor went on this ensured that lots of wax oil got in the chassis and this should now be sitting at the bottom of the chassis.
While this is not a sure fire way of preventing corrosion my car spends most of the time in a garage and not a huge amount of time on wet roads so i have not seen a hint of corrosion yet.
I used pop rivets that create a seal (also can't remember the make) to prevent water getting into the chassis through the hole.
Cheers
Mattsmev
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acra
Newbie
Posts: 16
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Exocet
Mar 11, 2011 12:20:49 GMT
Post by acra on Mar 11, 2011 12:20:49 GMT
That sounds like a good plan, anything that prevents the ingress of water should help! I'll keep my eyes out for other good suggestions though!
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Andy888
Full
Exocet Builder
Posts: 212
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Exocet
Mar 11, 2011 12:41:36 GMT
Post by Andy888 on Mar 11, 2011 12:41:36 GMT
I had thought of coating things like rivnuts and bolts in a wee drop of silicone before I bolted them in. On another note, our powdercoater said that the quality of the coating they use is such that rust creep essentially just does not occur. They have to prove this for quality purposes with various tests using 45 degree cuts. Here's a bit of an example of what I think they are talking about pkpowdercoaters.com.au/services/pk-system.html
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acra
Newbie
Posts: 16
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Exocet
Mar 13, 2011 17:39:51 GMT
Post by acra on Mar 13, 2011 17:39:51 GMT
Hi Andy, that sounds like it could be an idea too, and an interesting web link - is that the 'official' MEV powdercoater? On another note (yep more questions! ) What do people do for head/face protection? I'm thinking stone chips are gonna hurt if they're to the face! Are people wearing motorbike helmets, safety specs (shooting glass type, not Biggles goggles ) or what?
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Andy888
Full
Exocet Builder
Posts: 212
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Exocet
Mar 13, 2011 23:15:30 GMT
Post by Andy888 on Mar 13, 2011 23:15:30 GMT
That's just a random powder coating site I found that had some useful info on it. It's actually Australian!
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Exocet
Apr 3, 2011 15:01:24 GMT
Post by fasteddie on Apr 3, 2011 15:01:24 GMT
Hey Guys, I would think it would be possible to produce a track car for £2000-00 if you sold every item off your donor ( for which you only paid £500-00 or less) at maximum achievable re-sale prices to compare with Stuarts maths. and virtually did not renew any parts of the donor chassis, engine ect. However to produce a half decent car for IVA purposes and replacing items like, clutch, bushes, discs/pads ect, ect, I think your realistically going to spend in the region of £4000-00. But what a car your going to get for your bucks. Nothing in the current market place can touch it for looks versus costs. I`ve gone down the road of trying to replace all the 17 year old bits that are safety or reliabilty orientated and think my build costs will be around £4.5k-£5k. not bad for an exkeletal type car that will turn heads.( think I spelt that wrong)
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