Fuel Pump Not Running - Now Resolved

[donboy1983]

Hello,

Today I finally got all my coolant system complete and filled and decided to try and start the car for the first time since the strip down.

I have connected all the connectors to all the corect places, apart from all the lights, indicators and so on.

I have fitted an earth strap from the engine to the chassis and another from the battery terminal to the chassis. I have also connected all the single and grouped earths to the chassis. 2 grouped earth points at the front plus 3 single black earths and the 2 single earths at the rear of the loom.

when I turn on the ignition after putting the fob on the imobilizer the car turns over but the fuel pump does not engage or prime at all.

I have tried to connect a link wire between the FP and Gnd in the diagnostics box and that still won't engage the pump.


anyone have any ideas or pointers to help me out?

i have read the thread from Scooby and JGilbert but they seem to have a slightly different issue.
I also have removed the charcoal canister, do I need to do anything with the pipe work on top of the fuel tank?

any advice would be good.

thanks Don 

[donboy1983]

Little video of what lights come on.

s388.photobucket.com/user/Donboy_s14/media/AE6D9D1E-9CE0-44B7-BDA2-DD15C1354B10.mp4.html

[donboy1983]

Also I have 1 plug at the battery end that do not know where it should connect to. Any one got any ideas?

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[scooby1929]

When you say fuel pump does not engage or prime this should only happen when cranking. Our you sure you have your fuel pipes fitted the correct way round? Have you fitted the very large earth that was on the ppf?

I fitted a blank the fitting on the tank that goes to the charcoal cannister.

[gwnwar]

When jumping the FP and Grd. in dia. box key on do you have at the connector on tank for pump and sender power to the red/blue wire (pump) and a ground on the black wire. Ground check black to frame with OHM meter reading 0.00
The brown/black is for sender unit if you put it to ground the gauge should swing to full with key on..
There is a connector between the front and rear harness back of seat area..
The other connectors white and gray believe are antenna and fuse box for antenna and rear window defroster..
Do you have 1 or 2 hoses for fuel system. If 2 then one from the center most on fuel cover goes to the front of the fuel rail
other is the return from rear of rail to tank..

[donboy1983]

I will do some voltage checks tonight to see if I have power to the plug.

I have a 2 fuel pipe system, will also check these and come back to you, although I did try swapping them around yesterday.

Do I need to crank to engage the pump or should it run with the on position when the jumper is fitted?

[scooby1929]

It should run when the jumper is fitted in the run position . You could also check the fuel pump relay originally to get my car to start I ran an extra ground to the light green wire. You could then hear the relay clicking.

To start mine now there is no fuel pump clicking or priming or any noises when I crank it she just starts.

Check also that you are getting a spark? It may not be the fuel pump. You could also take the fuel line off at the inlet manifold and put it in a jam jar to see if she is pumping fuel? Is you fuel gauge working?

[donboy1983]

I took the pipes off at the Fuel filter and it was dry so assumed it was not pumping at all. will try with a jar later, will it still pump ok if the system is not pressurised?


I checked the relay yesterday using the ground to green wire and the relay clicks ok, still no pump running though.

Will spend a few hours tonight and hopefully get more info.

Thanks for the help.

[scooby1929]

To pressurise the system make sure fuel cap is on. Jump between grd and f/p. Turn on ignition for about 10 seconds but don't crank engine. Turn off engine and remove wire. System is now primed

[donboy1983]

Quick question before I go tonight, should I get 12v across the FP and GND in the Dia Box? Will check that I have voltage to that first if that's the case.

Also my ECU is not secured to the car and just sat in the footwell, does this need to be fitted to make an earth with the ECU casing?

[scooby1929]

I don't think the ecu casing is earthed. As for 12v across the terminals yes you should get 12 v

Are you sure it's not an immobiliser problem as it's linked to the fuel pump?

George will be along soon to help as he knows a hell of a lot more than me

It will be something simple

[donboy1983]

My car is alive and I am a happy boy. All down to a poor earth surprise surprise.

I started off by checking the voltage at the diag box and had 12v between the FP and GND.

Then checked at the connector that plugs in at the top of the fuel tank and get 0v between the blue/red and the earth when the ignition is turned :-(

Checked for continuity on the earth and found it was not reading on the meter.

The only earth cables that I had not secured properly by connecting to the chassis and removing the powder coat to bare metal, where the 2 on the rear of the loom near the tail lights. I secured the earths and started my tests again. I now had continuity between the plug on the sender and chassis. Fitted a jumper between FP and GND in the diag box and the fuel pump started to run. Disconnected the jumper and tried with just the key and the pump started running and it fired up.

I did find that one of the injectors was leaking, pulled the fuel rail off and found a damaged o-ring that I will replace.

Thanks again for the tips as you been great as always.

[driver]

Glad you found the problem, thx for letting us know could prove useful for others.