Quick intro and some Qs while I search for a donor

[phocup]

Hey all, I just joined the board, but have had been following the Exocet for a little while now .. mostly reading build threads on here.   Recently my friend bought a beater NA6 and let me take it out for a few drive.  I couldn't believe how fun that little car was even when compared to my modified 986 Boxster S.   Driving his car really put a fire under I disagree to get going on this project.  

Being an amateur mechanic capable of only basic maintenance ( so far ), I'm kind of diving off the deep end with this project though.   Seeing the extent that most of you guys go to even rebuilding the entire engine.   Hope I didn't bite off too much more than I can handle, but it should be fun to learn to wrench too.

I'm hunting around for a donor now but figure I would create this thread to ask my own questions without cluttering up other people's threads.

Question 1:

The price list on Flying Miata lists an optional "carbon fiber bodywork - $2400".   I take this to mean that the kit will come with fiberglass / composite bodywork otherwise instead of no bodywork.   Is that the case ?

Question 2:

I like some of the extra re-enforcement of the race frame, except I want the openness that the sport frame has.   Seeing that the price isn't much more $ for the race frame, I plan to order a race frame and opening it up myself.   Has anyone cut up a race frame to open it up more ?   I'm planning to remove and cap off the parts drawn in green here before I send it to powder.   Not sure if you guys see any issues with that.



Thanks ahead of time!

- Ben

[thestig]

I'm not sure exactly why you would want to go this route as the bars you are cutting out are everything that makes it a "race" chassis. Just order the sport chassis with double diagonals and steel floors. that is what a ton of people have already done.

The kit does included fiberglass bodywork in the price but I believe fenders are an optional extra at this point.

[phocup]

Hey Stigs, its most of it but not quite everything. You mentioned the additional double diagonals / steel floor.

Also, there's the bit in front that IMO could be used to fabricate a cheap windshield.

Financially, not sure how much that diagonal is but getting the floor welded in ( +$300 ) bring the sport kit to $7799. Its really not far off from the race kit's price. With cutting the race kit very carefully, I think I can take of what I don't want and save it as a single piece. If I change my mind later, I can easily get that re-welded vs paying a cage builder to fab that up.

At least that's how it works in my head. Reality might be much more difficult, thus I'm asking the question now.

Re: the carbon panels .. I've been searching but have not seen any build using that option.   The $2400 extra is expensive but seems like a decent deal if the exposed carbon was quality enough to save $ on paint.   Has there been a build using the carbon panels ?

[adelaideexocet]

I'm with stig on this. Why would you cut all the major bracing from the race frame?
If you want it open get the sport. The chassis is plenty rigid in the sport and as fo a windscreen you will be doing some heavy alterations anyway it's just easier to add an angled upright for the screen.
If you're racing, different story as, the frames roll over protection complies with many racing regulations. By cutting it off and rewelding you have just brought in a major weak point into the frame.
As an "amateur mechanic" you are going to have to learn lots on the build without making it harder for yourself by chopping it up.
Also, someone might be able to confirm this, but I thought the frames ran a tongue-in-groove style locating system on the frames meaning you'd also be left with holes on it?

[nzexo]

Not sure about the US, but in NZ we're allowed to have bolt-on cage members.

We built a chassis with a permanent roll bar and bolt-on cage. The full cage is homologated by Motorsport NZ.

The connection isn't too bad looking, and allows the option to run in Sport and Race modes.

[mawdo81]

If you're going to insist on doing that then you might as well ask for the tubes you don't want, just not to be welded in...

[greg]

Ridiculous.

[phocup]

Thanks for everyone's input. Just brainstorming some ideas so perhaps this wasn't the best one. LOL

NZexo, can you post pictures of your bolt on cage ? I would be very interested in seeing details of that install.  Thanks.

Mawdo, that's a good idea. I had assumed that the frame wasn't "customizable" but perhaps it is. I will reach out to Flying Miata with my wish list and see if they can provide me the cage part not welded in.

[boileralum]

Leaving the edge of that tube exposed is going to be a safety hazard. Just get the sport w/ the double diagonal and welded steel floor, and then you can buy the Exomotive windshield solution or build your own.

[nzexo]

Oct 5, 2015 17:12:12 GMT phocup said:

NZexo, can you post pictures of your bolt on cage ? I would be very interested in seeing details of that install.  Thanks.

Our cage looks very different from the rest of the world - Motorsport NZ insisted that the roll bar be wider than the outside of any part of the race seat.

The roll bar had to come forwards of the usual position and go outside the main chassis rails on short out-riggers.

Because the roll bar came forwards, the A pillars of the cage ended up being more up-right than is ideal aesthetically. They preferred to see it mount to the top of the chassis rail too - and because it is removable, there is a 10 mm thick plate to attach it to.

We've learned a lot with this first cage and the next one will look different.

I've not got very good photos of it - but you can see the mounting points in these shots hopefully.

[Ken]

Another option could be to order the race chassis and have them not weld in the roll cage- then you have the fitted parts to play with, but don't have to cut anything out.

[phocup]

Thanks for posting up the pictures nzexo. I still have not had a chance to get in touch with FM or Exomotive yet, but its on the to do list.

Good news is I did manage to snag up a donor. She's a 91 with 85k miles on her. No options ( A/C, powersteering, radio ), but does have new glass top. She's also in bad bad need of tires ( date code says 2004 .. ouch! ) and has some issues, but I think I did alright for $2.2k. Problem is even on the bald old tires, I'm having too much fun with her. Considering fixing her up for a year of SCCA autoX to dip my toe into the Miata world before I tear her apart.

Here's a few pics:



Shock boots seems to indicate the struts are toast, at least the boots are. Car drives a bit soft and bouncy but I assume that's normal for a stock suspension Miata. Your thoughts ?



Relatively clean under the car .. not TOO much rust.





Whoops, I think we have an oil leak.

[einy]

Oct 11, 2015 3:12:46 GMT Ken said:

Another option could be to order the race chassis and have them not weld in the roll cage- then you have the fitted parts to play with, but don't have to cut anything out.

Based on my build experience, I believe the frame 'moves around' a bit during the welding process (heat distortion). What fits during initial layup likely would no longer fit after the last weld is done from what I see.

To the OP ... buy a shop manual. Best is the factory manual if you can lay your hands on one as the pics (while very small) are hugely helpful, as are the torque values on nearly every assembly illustration.  Second best is called Mazda Miata Enthusiast's Manual, rest of the 'aftermarket' manual (Haynes, etc.) fall somewhat behind that one. Even though my donor was my 3rd Miata, I still refer to the factory manual on a regular basis.  Also, it's not a bad time during shake down of your donor to invest in upgrades that will transfer directly over to the Exocet build.  Coilovers, for instance.  Uprated brakes if you're into that.  Etc., etc.  Great opportunity to shake them down before you start disassembly.   

[phocup]

Einy, I wanted to keep it mostly stock during my build first for cost reasons and second to see how well a completely stock Exocet drives. With the open layout of the frame, should be simpler to swap things in as needed after the car is built.

That said, I'm contemplating coilovers because I think my stock suspension might be bad. Not sure though, because there seems to be no leaks. Just torn boots.

[gwnwar]

Nice find on the donor.. Is it a SNC of LNC engine.. Oil leak could tne the CAS "O".. Looks like the rear uprights need new bushings..