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Post by mawdo81 on Nov 25, 2015 11:54:27 GMT
Thanks shouldn't need removing now, it's taken longer but their built up properly now ready for discs etc. Hoping to instal driveshaft and align engine at the weekend.
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Post by mawdo81 on Nov 26, 2015 12:06:37 GMT
Hmm well after a number of calls to ok "friends" it turns out that I not only have the wrong ball joints but the wrong track rod ends as well. These are only good for the rd ones!
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Post by mawdo81 on Dec 1, 2015 21:16:52 GMT
Rally design are taking back the maxi ball joints and rs2000 track rod ends. I need focus track rod ends (having dumped 2 pairs) and have some Opel Ascona B ball joints on the way (Moog part number OP-BJ-3173).
Any tips on fitting the nears idle, short driveshaft into the mtx75 box please? There must be a knack to getting the circlip to engage?
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Post by mawdo81 on Jan 2, 2016 21:31:55 GMT
Any tips for removing the sump from a 2.0 black top Zetec please? Bolts out and run a knife around as much as I can but it won't budge...
Turns out I need to move the engine about 22mm to the drivers/engine side as well as ideally drop it a bit as well. Before I can do that I need to remove, then mod, the sump.
On a better note gear and handbrake levers in position and wiring loom tacked into place with zip ties so I can decide on positioning of ecu etc as well as what needs extending/trimming.
For bits that need just joining would you suggest spades or butt joins? For the bits that would want removing in the future for maintenance obviously I'll be using spades.
All bar the front right corner built up and the car also raised an extra couple of inches and moved a foot further away from the wall to help with trial fitting the bodywork.
Got hold of a pair of mx5 seats for a crate of becks, they need a re trim but I can do that as and when I want in the scheme I want for the price of grp seats anyway.
Plan to do the small plumbing (fuel, clutch, brakes) next. I presume for the rear split it doesn't matter how close to one side or the other it is? Static Pressure being the same throughout a body of fluid and there is normally a difference left to right at the front anyway? Or does the pressure wave on pedal change propagate at a rate that would make the l/r balance noticeable or at worse dangerous?
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Post by mawdo81 on Jan 3, 2016 20:56:09 GMT
Well it is a 2 part but it's the lower pan I needed off. David thanks for the tip, wallpaper scraper and the dead blow hammer did the trick. Now on to google to see about modding this bad boy.
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Post by mawdo81 on Jan 14, 2016 21:35:47 GMT
Be g thanks to the Sweet Rides boys, maz27 and Froggy for delivering my bodywork this evening. guys you'll be pleased to hear the I rearranged the garage and fitted it all in, so the house is clear and more importantly the boss is satisfied! pics will come once things are in position but can fellow builders confirm some assumptions for me please? My reading of the build guide and diaries is that the side panels are attached to the chassis but the rear panel is just attached to the side panels, is that right?
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Post by andybaird on Jan 14, 2016 21:43:28 GMT
Hi mawdo81
That is right about the rear panel. My rear panel is held by two bolts down each side of the panel
Andy
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Post by mawdo81 on Jan 14, 2016 21:50:53 GMT
Brilliant thanks Andy, what sized bolts did you use for the rear and grill? Something like m6?
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Post by p5curly on Jan 14, 2016 21:56:00 GMT
Good to hear build is going well will need a visit to check it out
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Post by andybaird on Jan 14, 2016 22:03:52 GMT
Hi mawdo81
Yes I think it was 6mm with large washers to spread the load on the panels.
Andy
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Post by daydreamer on Jan 15, 2016 17:56:11 GMT
I used spreader plates that held captive rivnuts and are fixed using closed cell double sided sticky foam. This picture is from inside the rear panel. It hard to tell what is going on here so I included from pictures from the front that make the idea clearer. The following pic are from the front to show the concept. I used M6 stainless bolts. M4 would be a bit flimsy in my opinion. The ally plate is 3mm thick.
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Post by mawdo81 on Jan 15, 2016 18:11:03 GMT
Great idea. Thanks
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Post by mawdo81 on Jan 19, 2016 21:31:21 GMT
My driveshaft outputs are an inch or two forward of the rear hubs. Given I have to redrill the engine mount and adapt the gearbox mounts anyway, is there any reason not to move the transmission rearward?
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Post by daydreamer on Jan 20, 2016 0:21:38 GMT
Mine is the same. it was no problem with the ib5. The getrag gearbox objects little by seaping oil from the driveshaft seals if I do donuts. I think is is down to the ib5 having a new lsd and tight endfloat on the diff and the Getrag having an open diff and 80k miles wear. I think The tripod arrangement on the ford drive shaft will tend to introduce slight shaft wobble when not straight on. I think the engine was pushed forward to improve weight distribution. If using the ford tripod on an old gearbox and your going to push it hard then personally I'd consider moving it back in line. Bear in mind when doing this that the shafts will end up with reduced compression in the tripod and cv so check that they do not reach the limit of compression when the suspension moves through it's full movement.
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Post by maz27 on Jan 22, 2016 21:08:56 GMT
how are you getting on with the bodywork dying to see it
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