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Post by welshmarks7 on Oct 29, 2014 23:11:10 GMT
Hi guys, tried to find info in technical and sonic threads but unable to find.
My question is , when fitting the engine cover locating pins/bars to the rearmost panel do they need to be a certain thickness, ie for radius test . I have fitted temporary as a template some aluminum strips at 20mm wide x 1.6mm thick, they seem quite strong but obviously want them to be correct for test.
Any info/advise gratefully accepted.
This would also be relevant for the bonnet, but I am hoping to make a hinge mounted on the wing/grill fixings.
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Post by martinw on Oct 30, 2014 11:15:44 GMT
If I'm understanding correctly, you're talking about fabricated "hooks" which are bonded / fibreglassed to the underside of the rear of the engine cover, which then fit into slots in the rear panel? Front is held down onto the rear bulkhead by over-centre catches of some sort. No need to worry about a radius test - no chance of a child's head getting in there  . I used some flat steel bar from a certain DIY superstore where everyone dresses in orange - think it was about 4mm by about 20mm from memory. I used the same stuff for the front, but used one continuous piece (bent appropriately) across the width of the front cover so that I'd got more surface to bond / fiberglass. Again, no worries re radius test. Be interested to see any hinge arrangement you come up with  . Martin |
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Post by welshmarks7 on Oct 30, 2014 17:47:55 GMT
Hi Martin, thanks for the reply, kind of thought as you said about childs head getting in there, but you never know with them swift little blyters you have to swerve several times before you hit them. Hoping to make a hinge similar this, www.metalmoulding.com/Full_Range_Pivot_Hinge.html , hinged from front. Now a short trip to see those persons in orange. Mark |
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Post by welshmarks7 on Nov 1, 2015 15:17:42 GMT
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Post by daydreamer on Nov 1, 2015 18:43:48 GMT
looks like fantastic progress, really like the font bonnet hinge. I'll admit to being a bit jealous about that. You asked about IVA related matters. RE Mirroirs, check absolute height of mirrors is enough to pass rear visibility , specifically the line on the ground that gets obscured by the rear wheels. Section "Indirect Vision 08 " page 4 of 8 www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/354071/M1_IVA_inspection_manual.pdfMy mirrors had to be raised to get the required visibility. RE Exhaust. This is not an IVA matter but one of reliability. It looks like your exhaust back box is like mine. If it is, then everyone I know with one has had it fatigue in a couple of places. Mine failed in under 1000 miles where the exhaust enters the back box and the threaded mounting tabs. If you can weld this is an easy enough fix. If not then do what I did, prepare the fillets a support plate and phone a friend. This is the extra support and fillets I added to mine after it failed.   |
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Post by kiwicanfly on Nov 1, 2015 19:53:19 GMT
Like that hinge, nice and simple and would not suit a piano. |
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Post by welshmarks7 on Nov 2, 2015 0:40:13 GMT
Hi Guys.
Hi Daydreamer, thanks for the comments,
I was going to 're-enforce the exhaust as you say once I get the car IVA'd as it needs to be put square; it's not quite parallel, it's about 10 mm out on the drivers side. Not much to be concerned about but I know it's there. Local stainless exhaust place said it would be easier to alter if they had the car to set it up.
Mirrors- I had made a triangulated line/jig and sort of set them up that way. Will do a better test once it's outside the garage, hopefully soon as I've been trying to set the brake bias and need to test them.
Made a manual adjustable(threaded bar with push rod) pedal push so I ngcould check brake friction on front and rear wheels with the same pressure on the pedal, seem to work I think. Will let you know.
Thanks Kiwicanfly, these hinges were also spring loaded but were either too strong which held the cover open (under load) or too weak and didn't hold it open, so went for basic manual hinge with bonnet stay. Simples.
Need to set up bias and weld before I fit scuttle panel than all is complete.
Will post pics of completed car soon. Watch this space.
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. I used some flat steel bar from a certain DIY superstore where everyone dresses in orange - think it was about 4mm by about 20mm from memory. I used the same stuff for the front, but used one continuous piece (bent appropriately) across the width of the front cover so that I'd got more surface to bond / fiberglass. Again, no worries re radius test. Be interested to see any hinge arrangement you come up with 
.
