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Post by miket on Nov 13, 2014 12:28:10 GMT
For the (newer one piece) rear wing stays I finished roughly nibbling out a crescent to fit round the upper caliper slider and drilled out the frontmost hole to 10mm to take the replacement M10 bolt needed.
I fitted the frontmost bolt and pivoted the (newer one piece)rear stay around it until the 2 arms were equidistant from the tyre and then sprayed some chalk thru the rearmost hole to mark the position to drill in to the nub.
Problem: The hole in the stay is 8mm for an M8 bolt. In the optimum position for the stay, the centre of my marked hole is only 5mm in from the edge of the nub, so an 8mm hole (even if drilled very carefully) will only leave 1mm of metal left at the edge of the nub. That feels dodgy, and hard to be sure of not breaking out at the edge. So I feel to have two options:- 1. Drill a smaller hole to leave more metal at the edge of the nub; say use an M4 bolt and pack out the 8mm hole in the stay somehow. Would an M4 bolt be strong enough for this application though? ...or...
2. Pivot the stay to where I can put an 8mm hole in the nub without getting near its edge. This may result in having to fudge the wing on the stays more by packing at one of the arms. When people have fitted wings on the stays have they found it to be an exact science or is there always a bit of 'adjustment' involved?
If you can bring any experience to bear I'd appreciate it.
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Post by scooby1929 on Nov 13, 2014 13:09:59 GMT
The holes in my stays were 5mm dia so I used M5 socket cap heads (12.9). 8mm bolts would be to big and you would end up with no edge landing
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Post by miket on Nov 14, 2014 7:38:54 GMT
Many thanks scooby, I feel better about using smaller bolts and I'll see if I can find how best to pack the 8mm hole down to a smaller diameter. Of two holes that's one hole made bigger and one made smaller!
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Post by gwnwar on Nov 14, 2014 20:45:03 GMT
You might want to pack it with JB Weld pretty strong stuff pack the whole thing then drill new hole in place..
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Post by miket on Nov 15, 2014 9:38:16 GMT
Ah okay - many thanks gwmwar, I'd not thought of using 'weld' - I've never had cause to use any stuff like that before. It'll no doubt be useful for other problems I'll hit too. My thoughts were lower-tech - I was going to try and find an old nut that'd be a snug fit in the hole and drill it out to 5mm.
My other discovery as I planned a little ahead was that I don't seem to have any rear wheel hub bearing dust caps, only fronts. I hadn't noticed this when I was dismantling but I didn't think I'd have lost them. A little research suggests there's no such thing as rear dust caps - seems odd.
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Post by mawdo81 on Nov 15, 2014 10:36:07 GMT
There weren't any on either of my focus donor front hubs, maybe it's a driven wheel thing?
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Post by miket on Nov 15, 2014 16:56:20 GMT
Today it was on with the front stays and damper/spring - nice easy job tho' one o/s stay arm is very close to the upper wishbone and I'll need to see if it fouls when weights are on things and the steering's usable. The rear stays are pending on the arrival of JB Weld and the front corner assemblies are pending on the loan of a big enough torque wrench.
So I might move on to doing the floor next. I bought a Lazy Tong riveter, but I've never done a rivet in my life so no doubt there'll be more to learn ... maybe do some test ones first!
I'm also ready to assemble brake callipers 'cos I've got all the replacement bits they needed, but it might be a while until they get plumbed in to pipes. Would it do any harm to assemble the callipers way ahead of plumbing them in or should I wait until I can do the callipers and the plumbing at the same time? I guess I'm concerned that some unseen corrosion might go on inside the callipers if they're dry.
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Post by gwnwar on Nov 15, 2014 22:59:03 GMT
miket.. First no hub covers on rear.. with the floors don't let them over hand the frame rails IVA no no. Watch were you place the holes for the rivets don't want the heads to overhang the flooring and stick out another no no.. You can make up a piece of metal with small hole to help mark locations.. You might want to install the tubing for brakes and fuel x2 before putting floor on. it is easier to work without it.. Installing the seat rails and seats before floor is also been found a good idea.. I know it will look like some thing really done to look like a car but flooring is hard to work around.. you can cut to shape and mark drill holes for later install.. You can rebuild the calipers now. get a couple of cans of brake clean.. Use the lube in kits for seals.. Rear calipers have an allen screw to move pistons in/out. Compressed air can be used to pop pistons out. cover cal with a rag fluid will be flying and DON'T put your fingers between the piston and caliper frame with blowing it out.. When done you could put all 4 in a small box inside house.. Things to check out.. then to items to work on. for brakes got to Handling got video on rebuild.. Go to Forum for more info.. Bottom of page will get you to other sections.. www.miata.net/garage/
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Post by gwnwar on Nov 15, 2014 23:03:33 GMT
miket.. Another thing have you checked the SNC on your engine.. Check key, key way, crank.. Always use new bolt in reassembly.. write up in garage section (miata.net) on how to do Locktight Fix..
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Post by miket on Nov 16, 2014 16:04:17 GMT
So much great advice gwmwar - thank you - that gives me plenty to be working on in the interim - especially the tips on things to do before fitting the floor. In preparing to do the flooring I see that there are quite a few bits of frame-weld that would prevent a flush fitting floor. Do people normally grind these off? Is there anything I need to be careful of or aware of doing this? I want to be sure of my ground before doing any work/damage to this component! Cheers
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Post by jgilbert on Nov 16, 2014 19:08:12 GMT
One more tip on the floor, drill your holes for the seats in the frame and transfer through the floor before you drill the floor rivet holes on the floor/seat cross mounts. If you just equally space the rivets they will interfere with the seat mounting position.
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Post by gwnwar on Nov 16, 2014 21:09:09 GMT
Those are some nasty looking welds. You could grind and touch that up. or install flooring peen down the floor some and seal up the difference. Most of that weld is outside of were flooring would be..Are you planning on sealing the floor to frame..
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Post by miket on Nov 17, 2014 9:40:30 GMT
jgilbert - thanks - I'm now planning to (eventually) PU & rivet the floor except for the rails the seat's supported on, then drill the seat-rails and floor for the seat runners, then put in the final rivets in the seat-rails last.
gwmwar - ok thanks I'll grind and POR15 before flooring. And yes I'm planning to use Tigerseal PU for the perimeter of the floor. I might even use some masking tape to catch any excess.
The flooring as supplied is 1cm shorter than the frame it's going on, so there's no danger of overhang in that direction! I'll make sure the rivet heads don't overhang the flooring and drill as far away from the edge as I can. I presume the unseen part of the rivet will deform in to a corner-angle shape as well as an open flat shape, but I need to get my eye in at riveting so I'll do a test where I can see what happens.
Once I've cut the floor I can use some flooring to make fuel/brake clip brackets. I kept the plastic multi-line clips from the donor's tunnel and hope to reuse them on my brackets. I have 7 so can space them every 25 cm / 10".
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Post by gwnwar on Nov 17, 2014 15:09:58 GMT
Don't grind to much off..I wouldn't make it flat across..
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Post by jgilbert on Nov 17, 2014 22:40:51 GMT
Miket, I ended up using clear silicon sealant on my floor. Tiger bond can be a bit messy and as I have an orange frame didn't want to see any sealent. Hope you have a descent rivet gun. The rivets need a fair amount of effort to 'pop' them. I ended up using a 'lazy tong' rivet gun. A standard gun would be hard work.
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