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Post by Deleted on Jan 12, 2013 10:05:24 GMT
I've used two poly bushes on previous builds to limit lock for the self centre part of the test. Just drilled them out same diam as the steering rack, cut them to fit them, then zip tie back together to secure. Remove after test.
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Jan 12, 2013 10:45:59 GMT
How would they know
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Post by Deleted on Jan 14, 2013 9:41:07 GMT
I used them from Paul, But found they bound up on the actual rack teeth, so in the end I removed them. My only issue on this whole project was the slipper plug, I was lucky to have bought that other rack, otherwise I would have been stuck. I may eventually have them made from alloy, and maybe make a few of them for future builders.....
Sent from my LT26i using proboards
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Post by Deleted on Jan 14, 2013 12:12:38 GMT
I used them from Paul, But found they bound up on the actual rack teeth, so in the end I removed them. My only issue on this whole project was the slipper plug, I was lucky to have bought that other rack, otherwise I would have been stuck. I may eventually have them made from alloy, and maybe make a few of them for future builders..... Sent from my LT26i using proboards I had this issue, as the stock item was made of an expensive form of cheese. It just fell to bits. I used a 10mm thick alloy disc, that was a tight fit in the hole, the centre part was threaded to accept a bolt to tension the slipper. Then, the racks plug hole was drilled at 4 places, 12, 3,6,9 oclock into the alloy disc, and threaded in turn with 5mm dome allen bolts. This was bonded into place, and sealed to prevent and dust ingress. Its a bit of fiddling, but i couldnt track down a cheese replacement for the recon item. May be an alloy item, with a better socket fitment would be a good idea.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 14, 2013 13:32:03 GMT
Hahaha, Cheese, just made me chuckle :-) Can you tell me where you had that plug made up? Or did you make it? If so how much would you make me one like yours for?
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Post by Deleted on Jan 14, 2013 13:43:11 GMT
I used a HOLESAW, i cant remember the diameter, but i had a set, and just kept placing them into the hole until it was just oversized as the cutting tool inner diameter needs to be the outside diameter of the hole.
TBH, measuring the inner diameter, and then buying a sillicone pipe bung off ebay may be a neater way, then just securing it by cross drilling into the rack. I only made mine as as iwas too impatient to order one up:)
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Post by huggy on Jan 16, 2013 21:03:18 GMT
I finished the steering rack on Sunday. That plug is indeed very brittle. A little flaked off however it survived overall. I'm glad I don't have to touch it much again.
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Post by huggy on Jan 16, 2013 21:24:57 GMT
Still awaiting the suspension springs and a few other bits to be delivered. In the meantime I got on with a few little bits this evening. Cut 4 of the 6 long camber adjusters to ~50mm to match the wishbone tube lengths. Some kits appear to come with them cut to size already however I've had to cut mine. Bottom ball joints fitted Top ball joints fitted 12mm OD, 10mm ID inserts made for the larger holes in each upright Inserts fitted Front uprights assembled. Spring washers & thread lock used on the hub bolts.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 16, 2013 23:00:00 GMT
Some advice on the uprights, try to make sure the faces clamped are metal to metal, and not powder to powder. I have found that with heat, and treated surfaces, that the coats that were clamped, soften, and the components can work loose.
I know its a pain to scrape off the coating of the mating surfaces, but I learnt the hard way with previous builds. On my current build, i painted all but the mating surfaces, then torqued and threadlocked it together, then painted the joint.
Also, now you have cut the adjusters down, you may need to retap them, as mine had issues with dirty threads half way through. I used 3 stage taps to clean the threads. I did find this half way through installing the wishbones on the car as the adjustable threaded parts would not wind in. 1 week of waiting for the taps to arrive so i could put her on the floor.
If you need to borrow, let me know.
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Post by huggy on Jan 16, 2013 23:59:55 GMT
Thanks Steve. I didn't paint the clamped face of the stub axle however that still leaves 3 powder coated faces per upright to deal with. I will look to do next time I'm in the garage.
Cheers for the offer of the taps. I was fortunate this time and the threads stayed clean. I screwed the top ball joint into all four and they were fine.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 17, 2013 6:25:02 GMT
Thanks Steve. I didn't paint the clamped face of the stub axle however that still leaves 3 powder coated faces per upright to deal with. I will look to do next time I'm in the garage. Cheers for the offer of the taps. I was fortunate this time and the threads stayed clean. I screwed the top ball joint into all four and they were fine. Result! It was a case of unfinished adjuster threads when they were supplied, on 4 out the lot supplied. The third stage finishing tap just made the difference. by memory, it was about an inch in from each side. I think also, they were the first set RTR started issuing to replace alloy versions in the kits. Looking good fella! Keep it up
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Post by huggy on Jan 26, 2013 22:36:35 GMT
Well, not much done due to the weather and lack of time. Remaining parts from RTR were delivered in the meantime. Way too cold out there! Steering rack mounted Steering column mounted. Hope to have something more substantial to report next time.
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Post by huggy on Mar 29, 2013 20:56:12 GMT
Well, it's been a little while since my last post and progress has been slow however, this was for all the right reasons. I had my first child. Here is what I have managed to get done. EN8 bar ground to fit Ford KA UJ. Other end of bar ground to fit Focus steering column.
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Post by huggy on Mar 29, 2013 20:57:39 GMT
First fit of Wilwood pedals
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Post by huggy on Mar 29, 2013 21:00:39 GMT
Using the rose joint method to support/position the steering column extension Sorting out the position
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