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Post by bossman on Aug 19, 2012 18:53:28 GMT
loving following your build Paul as Emma moved out yet to make way for all your parts that are filling your rooms or will that come later!!
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Aug 19, 2012 20:51:27 GMT
funny you should say that john, my eldest is leaving for lincoln uni in 2 weeks.. shes not allowed back again once out of the door. welcome to aladins cave..lol
im glad you enjoy the read, i never had the intention of having it the same, not that anyones builds are the same, i didnt mean it like that. but i wanted it to be different so i can test my own problem solving skills which is what i really enjoy. i want it as perfect as possible before i send it away for this one off powder coating. hence the brakes issues, air induction, the awkward rad like CBRockets. i hope i can keep it as interesting entertaining as possible to read.
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Aug 19, 2012 21:09:45 GMT
oh, and i got this aswell, just a little extra for when the charger is being set up
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Aug 19, 2012 21:15:38 GMT
Of course you need it! Looking forward to see you incorporate it into your build. Cheers, /Tobias thoughts so far tobias? still fibreglassing to do obviously
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Aug 19, 2012 21:52:12 GMT
does anyone have any advice on a product to use to build up the air intake sides to fit correctly? im not into those glass packs from halfords made by davids. used them a few times when ive crashed the racebike. not too great for fine detailing, and very expensive
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Post by 2beers on Aug 19, 2012 22:00:35 GMT
Looking niiiice!
I think the lines are definitely improved both from front and side. Will the roll bar rear support follow the general angle or the contour of your scoop? I like the way you're using the Rocket as a base for your own creativity and ideas a little more outside the box than standard. With all the gadgets you have collected, things will be interesting to the finish line.
Keep it up! /Tobias
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Aug 19, 2012 22:07:38 GMT
yeah, single cenrtal rollbar in front of the scoop, not sure if it will bend or if we will cut and weld like the nose yet. ill mesh the scoop for iva then open it back up to suck in old people, busses and small children not holding their mums hands
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Aug 19, 2012 23:21:33 GMT
doing research over a few beers tonight and. strange outcomes.. looking up to find f1 wing mirrors brought up pictures of rose west in google images.. not sure on what to make of that. but now on the hunt for some pagani zonda wing mirrors, god knows where this will lead.. im already scared..
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Post by jake on Aug 19, 2012 23:32:05 GMT
Mine were exactly the same. I had to Emery the stub axle very slightly to get the bearings to slide on correctly. And the top hats were all different measurements. I agree you should n't have rework something you pay £350 for! The tolerances on those uprights are shocking. I think they must be made in china question... the RD uprights taper bearing is tight around 12mm from its correct position. do i just wind the nut and it will push it into position? does it need pressing? should it be hand tight to remove. i think advice is needed before i damage anything. cheers, paul UPDATE.. ALSO THE SMALL OUTER BEARING TOO..
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Aug 19, 2012 23:35:30 GMT
i phoned RD about them, and to ask for some caliper mount brackets indrilled.. guess where they are ordered from in bulk..........................
oh yes.. fcuking china. 350 for chinese tat. mega, should have had some custom made and tried to achieve a 5deg castor angle. and mine are marked to hell and had no reply from rob... hmm, upsetting
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Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Aug 20, 2012 16:08:36 GMT
Just a little point about the roll bar, from experience, regards to IVA.
When I sent my first pictures to Vosa regarding the build, I was first contacted about my build pictures taken in a workshop. They were thinking it was a pro built car. What's the difference? Didn't get a clear answer. The pro IVA is 250£ ish, and the amateur built was £450ish back then. I wasn't sure if one was more strict than the other but didn't get a straight answer from the IVA tester at the time.
Apparently, there's some pro builders sneaking there cars in for test under the amateur test. ?
From the IVA test itself, I was quizzed on welding within the construction. Ie, the roll bar and seatbelt mounts on my robin hood, and also the front wishbones. I was asked about the qualifications and experience of the welder. I had pictures of ALL unpainted welds that I made. Plus, they were just painted, not ground back birdie poo.
Without this info, I'd have had an awkward time getting it through.
There's a massive difference in robin hood, and mev kits, so I don't see this problem re-occurring with my own build, just thought I'd offer some advice from my experience.
My IVA was in May 2010, and had a second time pass. Lots of lessons learnt lol. !
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Aug 21, 2012 5:16:26 GMT
This is a trend which RTR or MEV need to address, by the looks of it its due to the accute angle that its constantly sitting at, be it slightly emphasized y the suspension being at full travel while off the ground. i would refuse to accept that the company would sell a component that would fail without ever being used, and as there are multiple cases just on this site for one vehicle platform. somebody somewhere needs to look into which component it at fault. i am currently looking very closely at the suspension of my rocket, im quite unhappy with how it articulates and im looking to upgrade this before i go to get some colour applied. Was just looking round the car and noticed this on the front lower joints: Both sides are the same - absolutely knackered and it hasn't even been on the ground yet! Emailed Paul at RTR to see if he can send me a new set, but if not, does anyone know what they are from? Cheers Mark Hi Mark the same happened to mine like yours not even been on the ground. The ball joints are off a Austin maxi and i managed to get some new old stock QH QSJ602 off ebay , the rubber boots are 10x better. Cheers Tony.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Aug 21, 2012 7:50:02 GMT
Hi Paul,
I modeled the whole front suspension of the Rocket as part of my design application requirements here in NZ, if you have any type of solid modelling software, and you wanted to be bothered, you can have my models to play with.
It was quite interesting to see how a small change to the steering rack position affected bump steer and also how the theory that the steering arms and lower suspension arms need to be parallel is wrong.
Whilst the position of the steering rack brackets look ok my chassis is being sent over with the brackets only tacked on so I can move them if required without grinding big hunks of weld off.
Rob
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Aug 21, 2012 7:56:27 GMT
im no expert, but i have done a little homework on this, ill keep my cards to my chest as i may have it wrong and dont want to influence or upset people. i will be rose jointing at required points though. ill be looking at castor angles too.
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Aug 21, 2012 20:47:55 GMT
right i was awake at 03.30 this morning thinking about some issues i have hit since monday. firstly was the driving position, i was too far away from the pedals where the existing steering wheel mount was located.. so off it came.. gaining about 3" forward movement, placing my elbows inside the widest part of the vehicle, and also shifting mass forwards in the car. then i set kai on re-drilling the mounts for the full focus wheel, ill extend the mount point to accept the forward 2 bolts later. and all tidy and cleaned up.. this then opened the problem of moving forward the gear lever, i built the QS purchased from joker and studied it and a new mount. i then decided that i actually hate the tunnel too so.................. ive done away with it, its ugly and big and didnt suit my needs. so a bit of a mock up of the new gear lever position.. ;D i must admit that james (james hanks motorsport developments) is a bad man but has some good ideas, we bounced off ideas, he ran into the loft and came back with some copper pipe to tape into place. its about a 5" reach from the wheel to the stick. kai was the official photgrapher today and missed some good stuff, the tunnel is going to be greatly reduced in height, about 15mm above the handbrake cables. ill get the START button on it and thats all that matters. i cut the engine cover around the newly positioned mount and seated it in the gap, onto a lip im going to create from flat bar so its fully supported all the way round, not just screwed through the GRP. next the reynard went on top to see how it sat between the 2 seats, and how much airflow we would get...... ALOT!! no pics as david baliey wasnt on form.. (thats kai, all blurred) then decided if to make it removable or fixed... with the CDA filter inside.. then all change, make it fixed and make the entire cavity an airbox,... talk about a job growing arms and legs.
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