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Post by Paul (madeye) on Aug 2, 2012 20:24:39 GMT
Good move using silkaflex, it stops panel resonance/vibration as well. is 221 the best to use? or stronger? will it come off without damaging the powder if i want the floor off
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Post by airforceone on Aug 2, 2012 20:29:39 GMT
Only problem with sealing the floor to keep water out, is that it also can keep water In the car if you get caught in the rain.
Good idea though to seal the holes to prevent any rust.
Ned.
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Aug 2, 2012 20:39:08 GMT
could put a few descreet drainage holes out of sight
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Post by jacksdad on Aug 2, 2012 21:20:09 GMT
We did think about this a bit my main thought was that we hope to keep the rocket for quite a long time and I really want to try to avoid chassis corrosion as the main priority and my concern is that the any water falling on the floor tray will collect around the rivets due to capilliary action and start to corrode the holes and the chassis at these points that it was important to try and seal these so as we took the bead of sikaflex along the chasis we put a little doughnut of sealant around each hole, we also treated each hole with fertan preventer. I realise that any water in the tray will have nowhere to go but will eventually evaporate off and at least it won't be able to get into the holes, I think later we will seal the chassis/floor gap from the inside with some clear silicone sealant for a bit of belt and braces, i like th idea of drain holes but not sure if IVA ok and don't fancy water splashing up through puddles ?
I don't really know what 221 means, just chose this as i had used it for the caravan panels in past, i certainly hope i don't have to remove the floor so not too worried re pulling powder coating off.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 2, 2012 22:23:18 GMT
You can remove it if needed. It's not easy, but we use it in my line of work. It's commonly used on the exterior of wind turbines. it will take 20plus years 90 metres off the sea level in an offshore environment, so the floor of a rocket is nothing. A sharp blade down the join, and a little heat is all thats required to separate. The powder coat should be fine afterwards. There's quite a few silkaflex options out there.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Aug 3, 2012 10:04:14 GMT
I was mulling over the sealing issue today and was wondering about putting an O-Ring on each rivet between chassis and floor.
Also just had a thought that where the floor is bent to match the chassis on the outer edge it could trap the water due to the sealant preventing it draining away.
Again O'Rings might aid this as the holes will be directly protected but there should be a very slight seperation between the floor and chassis tubes.
Thiongs to mull over before my build starts in, hopefully, October.
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Aug 3, 2012 10:44:21 GMT
it could vibrate the alloy against the chassis once the o ring is compressed to about 1mm
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Post by jacksdad on Aug 3, 2012 15:32:51 GMT
I think i will seal the inside and the ouside of the metal the inside with clear silicone so its not so visable and i'll run along the edge between the metal and the chassis with sikaflex sohopefull no water will get between the chassis and the aluminium at all.
I'll do this at the end of the build cos all the getting in and out and work on the car will only split the seal anyway.
Probably being a bit paranoid
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Post by jacksdad on Aug 7, 2012 18:01:37 GMT
the best fun of all is getting new toys: had a pleasant 1/2 an hour with jack and me doing irresistable force immovable object experiments ;D
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Post by BobN on Aug 8, 2012 6:37:04 GMT
Thats a really nice useful toy (I found not having the right tools does hold up the build progress considerably). My mobile mechanic had one of these and it made very light work of fitting the bushes and crush tubes in the wishbones. Also very handy for fitting bearings.
BTW reading the thread above about the seals etc for the floor I did ponder about it before the start of the build but: I had a 1989 Caterham 7 (for 3 years) which had the floor riveted on (no sealants etc on it) and I also drove it out in the rain, there were no problems with water getting in the car from the floor or rust etc. The previous owner was the same so I figured after 22 years and the car floor is still in good shape there was no need to put sealants etc on the Rocket as they also might wear after 5 years.
Do we really know whether water is a issue as I am starting to doubt whether I have made the right decision?
I don't expect to take the car out in the rain much as its too exposed and there is no wet weather gear, I also don't expect to do more that 1000 miles a year.
Bob
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Post by jacksdad on Aug 8, 2012 14:31:03 GMT
Thats interesting about the caterham does it have box section steel chassis which my make a better seal naturally than the round, however i am sure that as these cars are not used much and mainly in the sunshine this is not a big issue and will be ok either way. used the press to push in a few bushes and works a treat, i got it cos i suspect i will be taking the bearing apart a few times as i put the front ones on the rear forget a crucial spacer etc etc
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Post by BobN on Aug 9, 2012 7:51:14 GMT
No idea what chassis the Caterham had. Was not really into the mechanics of the car and this is the first time I am getting my hands dirty.
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Post by jacksdad on Aug 9, 2012 19:37:33 GMT
Ok only 2 weeks into build and need some help couldn't find even in mark's amazing build diary which way round the adjustable bush holders go : the ones with the longer thread on top or the bottom front wishbones ?? my guess is that the upper wishbone will hold the longer thread as i am more likely to want more camber adjustment than toe adjustment but any help would be greatly appreciated
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 9, 2012 20:15:27 GMT
Hi mate,
Yeh, sorry! I don't have the adjustable ones.
I would say that as long as the shorter ones have enough thread for the bottom, your logic sounds spot on. You would want more adjustment at the top.
Cheers Mark
Sent from my GT-I9300 using proboards
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Post by airforceone on Aug 9, 2012 20:31:00 GMT
Hi Guys
If you look at the alloy tube that these screw into it is easy enough to see which ones fit which arms.
The rear bottom mount for example as quite a long. Take a look at my build guide on page 5. Basically the long ones go on the bottom so that the upright can be moved out and the short ones on top to bring the upright closer to the frame. You would never want the wheel further out at the top than at the bottom.
Ned
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