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Post by Deleted on Feb 2, 2013 10:06:16 GMT
The bulkhead bearing is a good improvement, but I wouldn't use the 1mm alloy for it, is grab some 2mm for the task. The strain created from the quickrack may fatigue that area over time. Looking good though
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Post by kiwicanfly on Feb 2, 2013 21:09:39 GMT
Appreciate your concern Steve.
I've just been out a done a rough experiment to test the load on the bulkhead.
When turning to full lock and loading the springs in the rack the bulkhead does not move at all.
Then I slightly loosened the clamps holding the rack in place and repeated, the rack flexed on its mounts more than the bulkhead which only moved due to the rack movement.
My bulkhead is currently only made of coreflex and held on with cable ties.
However I have debated whether to trap the bulkhead between the pedal box and cylinders which would give it even greater support, especially as this is so close to the bearing.
Also the load on the bulkead will be axial and therefore in the strongest plane.
If I did have to end up changing the bulkhead material though I think the neatness of the solution outweighs any cost or weight issues that might arise.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Feb 3, 2013 8:00:06 GMT
Well I am officially stumped Cannot for the life of me figure out how to connect the copper brake pipe to the master cylinders. I figure there must be a ferrule or compression fitting to take the flared pipe into the fitting supplied with the cylinders. Can't find anything that has been supplied with my kit but also cannot see anything on any build diary to lock the two together. Just don't think drilling holes in the yellow plastic cap is going to cut it
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Post by Deleted on Feb 3, 2013 8:16:42 GMT
Take the brass fittings out, and file them in the bin. By memory, you need 7/16 unf male brake fittings to get the fluid out, and 7/16 banjo bolts, 25mm long, also 7/16 banjo hose tail 8mm diameter to get the fluid in.
I presume your using copper pipe for the lines, if not and your using the full braided, then you just need the banjos and fixings.
In the uk, it's hard to get UNF fittings, it's all metric threads, so I bought some 7/16 banjo bolts, 3 x 12 mm hose tail banjos, and 6 of the 12mm brass washers with rubber seals, doughty washers I think they're called.
I can't remember what tpi the 7/16 should be, I think it's 20 not the finer 24 tpi. I'd check some of my posts, as its in there somewhere lol.
Regards to the panel, good testing.! I opted for the same bearing style, but mounted to a alloy fabricated bracket as I didn't want fatigue problems. I didn't test like yourself, I just made an assumption based on materials lol. Maybe I'd of been okay lol.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Feb 3, 2013 8:37:46 GMT
Ah so I am not going mad, I have been into the garage five times this evening offering the copper line to the fitting and each time getting more and more confused. I have advised RTR that there does not seem to be any appropriate fittings to make the connections, odd as I have bought Everything you need to................ We have to use copper-nickel (or steel) brake lines over here, we can't use basic copper and we can't use braided in place of fixed except where flexibility is required, so that means solid from the cylinders up to the wishbones. Been thinking about the panel again myself, If any doubt sets in I was thinking that a triangular shaped sub panel coming down from the pedal box might be just the business to add extra support without recourse to a full 'extra thick' panel. However playing around again today there is absolutely zero movement in the panel which is interesting considering how flimsy it is at the moment. One thought I had when buying the bearing unit was whether I should lock the shaft into the bearing as, in the event of a crash, it might be better to let it slip through to save the panel. Least of my worries eh? ;D
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Post by springfield on Feb 3, 2013 11:44:46 GMT
Hello Rob, Fortunately I spotted this conundrum earlier on in the build and put the pedal box as far forward as possible, it gives slightly more room to manoeuvre. If you look at my build you will see what I have done, and as I think Steve said, you need UNF fittings and banjos. Are your pipes flared already? Les.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Feb 7, 2013 7:56:30 GMT
Thanks Paul, helpful pics.
Regarding the accelerator pedal - I dropped the height of both the Wilwood pedal box and Joker accelerator pedal because, er.... well, everyone else seems to have done this.
When the pedal pad is lined up with the Wilwood pads it was off the diagonal brace.
Will have to finalise heights when I have it on the floor so leaving it attached to the bit of hardboard for now.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Feb 7, 2013 7:57:24 GMT
Slow but steady progress over last few days, I have had it laid down in no uncertain terms that I have to get some baffles in my petrol tank (NZ requirement). Tried all sorts of options but looks like a slice n dice is my best solution - time to see how good the aluminium welders are at our sister company. Sorted out the reservoir tank, originally it had no mounting lugs of any description So had to take it to a plastic welder up the road and have some fittings attached. Fits nice now, will remove the excess bracket at a later point when I am sure it cannot be useful. Also been notified today that the next lot of parts have been despatched from Nottingham, included are wheel studs and rear bearings so will be able to sit it on the floor soon and do the "Me in my Rocket obligatory photo". Missing brake line fittings will also be sent shortly. Started working on the bump steer settings. With the steering rack simply placed on the mounts the results were horrible. Will post a full description in the technical section when I have it sorted.
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Feb 7, 2013 8:02:22 GMT
mate, please dont take this the wrong way, and i know you said there were bits missing. But that service seems very poor, studs, bearings, brake fittings.. really?
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Post by kiwicanfly on Feb 7, 2013 8:07:19 GMT
mate, please dont take this the wrong way, and i know you said there were bits missing. But that service seems very poor, studs, bearings, brake fittings.. really? Really - You would not want to believe it but it's true, that's only the stuff I need now, lots of stuff needed later in the build still to be shipped. To be fair no arguments about whether stuff actually did arrive but if you saw the full extent you'd weep.
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Feb 7, 2013 8:11:02 GMT
are you being re-imbursed for time trouble and bloody phone calls to the other side of the world? id like to point out that you seem much calmer than i think i would be..
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Post by kiwicanfly on Feb 7, 2013 9:31:14 GMT
are you being re-imbursed for time trouble and bloody phone calls to the other side of the world? id like to point out that you seem much calmer than i think i would be.. Ah yes the phone calls - Go Skype is all I can say. And when when the other party's Skype is offline ? Go Skype Out, mere cents to call a land line and they can't caller ID you As for remaining calm? Keep calm and carry on is the best approach, after all you can't eat an elephant in one sitting can you.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Feb 10, 2013 7:08:24 GMT
This weekend was spent playing with my suspension setup, may seem a little early but if changes are required now is the time to do it.
Even something as simple as cutting the side panels can be a pain if the rack is in the wrong place.
I ended up with castor values of 9 degrees and some initial bump steer results that need further investigation.
Had fun with trigonometry as well.
Have posted a detailed write up in the technical section.
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Post by springfield on Feb 10, 2013 11:17:42 GMT
Hello Rob, Nice job on the lugs makes a change having someone interested in their workmanship. I ended up putting three washers on the top suspension to give a Castor angle of approximately 7 degrees, with 17inch wheels. This gave the self - centering effect necessary for the IVA. Had to watch the rack travel so as the tyres did not foul on full lock. Les.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Feb 11, 2013 7:15:27 GMT
Thanks Les, wait till I move from the mechanical engineering/assembly to the more automotive engineering, I will definitely be out of my comfort zone there!
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