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Post by gwnwar on Sept 19, 2012 23:27:32 GMT
Did you loosen the front PPF bolts on the gear box to help slide it under..jack at a point more to the front.. If all else fails use BFH to bend down..
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stubbers
Senior
Exocet Number 306
Posts: 478
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Post by stubbers on Sept 20, 2012 16:39:34 GMT
Well hmmm what can i say really.................
Spent the morning pondering over the situation and decided not to bend them as im guessing this isn't Stuarts intention for people to bend them??
So separated the ppf into 2 (removed the drive shaft and ppf brace just so they weren't in the way) and still there was no way i the tabs going under the other tabs, i was wrestling with it for a good few hours jacking up different sides and pushing and pulling from all directions, I imagine it sounded like i was giving birth to anyone listening in, then i managed to finally get them to line up, but then there was no way on earth the top mounts were going to be anywhere near the holes as the front ones were sliding all over my lovely powder-coated sub frame and there rears were in the air.
So now I ask do they have to be bent to actually fit rather than just making it easier?? I will bend them if this is needed, I just find it a bit odd that I will have to start whacking my new frame with a hammer to bend things to fit?
Hopefully will have a bit more progress tomorrow.
Rich
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Post by scooby1929 on Sept 20, 2012 18:14:09 GMT
Rich check out Callas build thread he had the same issue as you
I am deffo goin to do a trial fit before i paint mine
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Post by gwnwar on Sept 20, 2012 18:44:34 GMT
Stubbers.. What springs do you have in the car?? Are they adjustable coil overs.. If so try lowering the spring/top hats in the rear and take mounting bolt for them off. Tilt rear up or chassic down and bolt up tab loosely and bolt rest of rear subframe into chassic when all bolts started torque all bolts.. then support the rear sub frame and push down on lower A frame and slide shock in place.. you will have to release the sway bar to let it drop.. If non adjustable shocks pull the tophats/shocks at top loose and outward.. bolt tabs up and other bolts.. install shocks like you would doing a shock swap.. You can also take shock out all together mount tophat first then lower bolt.. Take the dog out for a walk to clear the head..
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stubbers
Senior
Exocet Number 306
Posts: 478
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Post by stubbers on Sept 20, 2012 19:37:26 GMT
Gunwar: Im using standard shocks atm, i thought that it may be the top mounts fouling first so I jacked up the rear sub frames and allowed the top mounts to fall down being well out of the way. Plus being as though the sub frame was on axle stands I packed the front up so it would tilt the subframe in the direction I'm hoping for.
Looks like I'm just going to have to bend them like everyone else has.
Rich
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Post by gwnwar on Sept 21, 2012 2:03:22 GMT
one question were the top rear subframe mounting bolts out when trying to line up the tabs.. With the PPF attached to the diff you should be able to use it to tilt the front of rear sub frame up alittle..
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stubbers
Senior
Exocet Number 306
Posts: 478
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Post by stubbers on Sept 21, 2012 7:46:31 GMT
When I finally managed to get the tabs under, the front mounting holes on the rear subframe were almost wedged now onto the top of the sub frame and the rear ones were 30mm in the air. I then jacked up the rear of the rear subframe but still no luck. It was like the tabs were the slightest bit to high.
So it may be out with the hammer later
Rich
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Post by gwnwar on Sept 21, 2012 13:04:47 GMT
Does indeed sound like the tabs are to high on tube.. Have you got with Stuart about this.. Maybe a touch to heat the tab both down and up.. or just a BFH..
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stubbers
Senior
Exocet Number 306
Posts: 478
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Post by stubbers on Sept 21, 2012 15:07:59 GMT
Well with a tad of heat and a set of grips the tab bent down nicely. Once the tab was bent down the top holes were almost there, I found a g clamp braced against the subrame and then the chassis worked really well for making those small adjustments to get the holes to line up perfectly (especially when working on your own) The front was the same just making small adjustments to get the holes to line up. And then took out the blocks and she was finally supporting herself The front is a tad low though, will be interesting to see if ill need to put the standard springs back on compared to the 30mm lowering ones that are on atm. I took this photo to re assure myself that the chassis would never of fitted without bending them down, I will wait until after powder-coating before I bend them back up slightly to meet the frame just so im not bending it 4 times. To me it looks almost like they are out by the thickness of the tab.
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Post by gwnwar on Sept 21, 2012 19:38:47 GMT
Tab welded on wrong side of the tab, bottom should have been top.. What a difference a 1/4" makes.. I would sent Stuart a copy of pic.. maybe you will get a gage cover for your trouble.. OK weekend is here onward and upward.. keep the pics coming..
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stubbers
Senior
Exocet Number 306
Posts: 478
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Post by stubbers on Sept 23, 2012 17:32:59 GMT
Had a nice weekend working on it this weekend, First task the pedals Made some spacers to fill the gaps Next job was the steering wheel, had some trouble with this. Put a nut behind the plate on the brake pedal as when it was bolted down without it pulled the universal joint too far to the right and was rubbing against the hole, I wasn't happy with the slack in the cable at rest so I used the other hole to put the pin in and now works very nicely, i found it quite satisfying to press the pedal and watch it operate Slowly getting there, but i keep thinking this is only the soft build and i will have to do all this again, but it will hopefully mean a few less scratches!! Radiator mounts where on the agenda next, surprising on how solidly the 4 bracket hold the rad. A bit concerned about how low the radiator is, i may make a skid pan for the rad and sump. just out of interest has anyone measured the ground clearance on the front?? Heater pipe bracket, had to mod some of the silicone pipes because of the rad being slightly closer to the engine. Had to cut off whatever this is, as it wouldn't fit with it in, after i had cut it off i welded/melted a plastic blanking plate in and just taped it off for a neater finish, its sealed nicely so no unfiltered air will get in. Next on the list it mounting ABS unit, Expansion bottle and MAF sensor bracket but got to get a air filter first to work out the positioning. Oh almost forgot, drilled and tapped the fuel pump for the ally tank, bit concerned about the original 4mm bolts so I'll probably change them for 6mm ones. Worked out its a 22ltr tank anyone ever worked out the mpg of a exocet? Rich
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Post by red5 on Sept 23, 2012 18:54:40 GMT
Rich
looks all good and nice work btw, but the second hole where you have mounted the accel cable could fail if you are giving it the full beans.........its there to pull a cable in the opposite direction ( supercharger , turbo etc) , and so could loose the cable if it is ( throttle ) wide open.
consider mounting on the lower lug and shortening the cable at the pedal , which will be better in the long run.
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stubbers
Senior
Exocet Number 306
Posts: 478
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Post by stubbers on Sept 23, 2012 20:49:15 GMT
Tbh i think this method may be more secure than the other, I had to slightly bend the original hole so i could get the cable through the back of it then bent it back. So it will never come completely detached like the original could. But I'll weigh the peddle down tomorrow and have a look what you mean.
Cheers for the advice Rich
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Post by gwnwar on Sept 23, 2012 23:52:33 GMT
Nice looking so far.. You weren't able to remove the slack from the throttle cable with the mount on the cam cover.. Did you remember to put the check valve in the vac hose to the brake master cly..
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stubbers
Senior
Exocet Number 306
Posts: 478
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Post by stubbers on Sept 24, 2012 7:01:45 GMT
Yeah the check valve is another job on the list, not quite sure how I will get it out, may have to slice the old pipe??
No even at fully adjusted there was still slack in the cable, when I first bought the mx5 there was slack so don't know what the previous owners did...
Rich
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