stubbers
Senior
Exocet Number 306
Posts: 478
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Post by stubbers on Nov 20, 2011 0:22:16 GMT
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stubbers
Senior
Exocet Number 306
Posts: 478
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Post by stubbers on Nov 27, 2011 21:40:22 GMT
Well after 2 weekends of a lot of blood some sweat and a few tears it finally looks like i'm getting somewhere, the body is nearly ready to come off!! (Pics to follow shortly)
To be honest if I gave it a good push today I probably could of got it off but didn't want to get mid separation and have to do the rest by lead light.
Just a quick question are people keeping the ABS unit or not?
Rich
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Post by adam1001 on Nov 27, 2011 22:27:40 GMT
Well done, that's quick work. Best to leave it for tonight, the last thing you want is separation issues I can't answer your ABS question I'm afraid as mine came without it. You'd save a bit of weight removing it, but I think if it was there I'd personally be inclined to keep it...
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stubbers
Senior
Exocet Number 306
Posts: 478
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Post by stubbers on Nov 27, 2011 22:53:34 GMT
Cheers i think i will keep it, but will have to draw myself a good diagram of all the different pipes before i even consider removing it.
Rich
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stubbers
Senior
Exocet Number 306
Posts: 478
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Post by stubbers on Dec 3, 2011 22:15:57 GMT
Me and my dad, we had just got the wiring loom out and removing the last of the chassis bolts. Looks quite funky this high We slowly jacked up one side then put axle stands under to check for any connections and to raise it as much as possible..... Well the four of us lifted the body shell up all almost pulled a hernia and then swiftly put it back down. we had spent ages formulating a plan on how to lift and where to put it, but it had never crossed out minds on how heavy the shell would be. With that plan out of the window we rigged up an A frame and engine winch (this was all pre fabricated as we use it to lift our boat engine out) once the body was lifted up i realised the handbrake cables were still attached so those were swiftly removed. now comes the difficult bit. Due to removing the bolts that hold the subframe off the floor i had a problem rolling the body from under the frame. After much faff and a slight accident i realised the sub frame supports its self just above the floor, and managed to roll the chassis back from under the "floating" body. Any way, now the body is off the old girl and I will do a full under the body inspection tomorrow in the light to see the extent RUST
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Post by Stewart on Dec 5, 2011 12:07:21 GMT
That's a familiar sight, and familiar issues. Handbrake cables and the front subframe dropping Thankfully we had a couple of scafold boards to slide under and drag it back into the garage.
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stubbers
Senior
Exocet Number 306
Posts: 478
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Post by stubbers on Dec 5, 2011 22:43:04 GMT
Well I've not encountered my first major problem. The socket needed to remove the hub is a 29mm I seem to have all sizes accept a 29mm!!! looks like a trip to Halfords tomorrow to get a 29mm impact quality socket.
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Post by adam1001 on Dec 6, 2011 20:09:16 GMT
Don't bother! Halfords don't do them. I got one online in the end from Tools4Trade.
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stubbers
Senior
Exocet Number 306
Posts: 478
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Post by stubbers on Dec 10, 2011 19:24:00 GMT
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Post by adam1001 on Dec 12, 2011 13:07:16 GMT
No, no other bolts. Obviously as long as you've split the driveshaft-to-diff so it's not being held in place by the diff that should be it. I tried my new hub-puller the other day and one popped straight out, the other was harder and I gave up on it and moved onto more interesting things so I need to re-approach it when I have a moment.
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Post by adam1001 on Dec 12, 2011 13:09:46 GMT
PS take the hub puller back to Halfords. They're generally brilliant at replacing broken tools.
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Post by Stiggy on Dec 12, 2011 14:00:06 GMT
If you put the hub puller under tension and then hit the end with a hammer the shock often does the trick
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Post by 300tt on Dec 12, 2011 15:38:36 GMT
If I'm following your post correctly, you're trying to press out the halfshaft axles from the hubs? If so, you may be one of the unlucky ones that have them stuck in there REALLY good. Kevin Patrick talked about this in his post and he ended up having to get a new/used hub/halfshaft because even a huge press couldn't get the splined axle out. I ran into the same issue...a 20 Ton press couldn't get mine to budge. I gave up and located some used parts that were already seperated from a Miata salvage specialist. Maybe we have more rust over here in the States, but it sounded like a VERY common problem here. I had a hard time finding the parts because they were so popular:( Sorry for the bad news...
Good luck!
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Post by Stewart on Dec 12, 2011 18:05:43 GMT
I had exactly the same issue on mine. We used the BFH on one side and it didn't budge. Also tried the 20t press on the other and snapped one of the caliper mounts off the hub! I bought an LSD, prop, shafts, clutch and flywheel from a breakers and got him to chuck the hubs in to the deal
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stubbers
Senior
Exocet Number 306
Posts: 478
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Post by stubbers on Dec 12, 2011 18:58:11 GMT
Thanks for the info guys, i got the hub puller replaced BTW. Ive now got the hubs resting upside down with strong penetrating oil flooding the joints in hope, i think i'll leave them for a week ish and then see if they will budge, ive got the hub puller under tension on one of shafts in hope it frees up. On the plus side ive managed to sell a fair bit from the car. Tonneau Cover £25.00 Aerial Motor £45.00 Electric Window Switch £10.00 O/S Rear Light Cluster £8.00 Rear View Mirror £5.50 Rear Fog Switch £8.70 Speakers £8.00 Door cards Pair £20.00 Numberplate surround £16.55 Vynl Dash Trim £0.99 Original Seats £52.00 Bonnet £10.00 N/S Door £40.00 O/S Door £50.00 O/S front indicator £10.00 N/s Front Indicator £10.00 Interior light Dimmer £5.80 Front Bumper £30.00 Rear Bumper £10.00 Kick Plates £20.00 Total £383.04
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