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Post by Deleted on Oct 19, 2011 20:25:19 GMT
hi chaps, after some advice on what to do here, two of the bolts holting one of the water pipe brackets/housings have sheared off, whats the best way to remove/deal with this as they seem to be stuck fast??
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Post by scottie999 on Oct 19, 2011 21:40:48 GMT
If you have access to oxy acetelyne, heat the body around the remaining broken bits gently, if its alloy it wont take much heating, then use mole grips on the protruding parts and unscrew the broken bit. If the broken bit doesnt move easily give the area around it a bit more heat. until it does. Heating and cooling often frees off siezed bolts and threads. If it breaks off flush redrill it and use a thread insert. Hope this helps..
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Post by samuelt on Oct 20, 2011 6:49:41 GMT
you could also try Irwin 5 Piece Bolt Grip Nut Remover Set from screw fix / machine mart / ebay.
I have upped this to the full set of 10 with the extender pack, absolutly fantastic at removing studs and damaged bolts/nuts on the 2 mx5's i have broken. I would have spent hours with the grinder otherwise!
They are fluted inside and have sharp edges that cut int0 the stud the harder you push the more they grip
<img>http://s7g3.scene7.com/is/image/ae235/96028_P?$p$</img>
edit:-
type "irwin 5 piece" into ebay and you get lots of options! I will never be without these agin when working on older cars!!
I have jsut been out to my engine and removed the bolt the 5/16th 8mm from the extender pack fits onto the "wrong" end of the bolt (not the socket end) when turned slightly it grips very tight. This should work on your bolt without the head.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 20, 2011 13:34:18 GMT
Great, thanks for the help chaps, no access to torches just yet so i'll see where i can get the cheapest nut removal set.
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Post by fizzy on Nov 7, 2011 13:19:06 GMT
Rusty bolts - always a nightmare when working on older cars. Irwin bolt/nut removal tools are great! Used them myself a few times. As for looking for the cheapest - the cheap ones just aren't the same quality or work as well - check out some of the reviews on amazon etc. As for actually getting the bolt out - use a wire brush to clean off the rust/debris (I have one that looks like a toothbrush which is great for this). Spray copious amounts of wd40 or penetrating oil if you have it, leave overnight. Use removal tool and it should hopefully come out. If not you're looking at either heating as mention above or drilling it out.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 7, 2011 14:07:16 GMT
Thanks chaps, took the rest of the ancillaries off the engine and removed the plactic can shields at the front sheering another few bolts in the process. ended up getting a new water pump piece from ebay for £20 delivered, so went for that and replaced it, avoiding any of the hassle of getting them out. the whole thing was pretty knackered and the bearings didnt feel too good either!
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Post by Stewart on Nov 7, 2011 23:22:24 GMT
That was going to be my suggestion, just replace parts like that. They probably haven't been done in a good few years and not expensive to buy for the piece of mind. Plus, you can do the cambelt at the same time
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