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Post by andrewb on Nov 28, 2022 10:50:05 GMT
It's about time I started a thread on this. It came to me from a friend who had it for years but never made much progress. Here is the day it arrived.   |
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Post by wishful4444 on Nov 28, 2022 13:55:24 GMT
Good Luck with that lot!
You'r a brave man. I wish you well.
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Post by andrewb on Nov 28, 2022 14:50:01 GMT
That was a year ago. Here it is now.  |
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Post by kiwicanfly on Nov 28, 2022 18:25:45 GMT
Where's the roll bar?
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Post by andrewb on Nov 28, 2022 19:41:45 GMT
The previous owner ordered it without one. I shall be investigating fitting one. |
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Post by kiwicanfly on Nov 28, 2022 23:33:15 GMT
The roll bar and its associated diagonal braces form a critical part of the structural bracing. That is from Stuart Mills the original designer of the chassis.
You will have to have it welded in place (hope that coating isn't final) or have bushes inserted into the chassis to enable a bolt on one to be structurally attached. TBH welding directly is the easiest option.
Further I cant see any way those posts behind the seats are going to pass loading requirements for the seatbelts.
I am surprised RTR/EXO agreed to sell it with those issues - then again I am not really surprised tbh.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news
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Post by andrewb on Nov 29, 2022 15:32:54 GMT
Well that's all a bit negative. I was hoping someone could point me in the direction of a place that could bend some tubes to the right shape.
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Post by andrewb on Nov 29, 2022 22:27:29 GMT
If someone could measure the height of their roll bar that would be helpful. Thanks in advance.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Nov 29, 2022 23:29:32 GMT
Sorry for being so negative but it was the shock of seeing a chassis made like this that worried me.
The easiest roll bar to make is the simple flat topped one, making a M-Hoop style like most Rockets have is somewhat more tricky. If you did want that style I would (reluctantly) advise buying from EXO as they have the dimensions and procedure set.
For a straight topped one you will have an easier time but ensure that the tube is bent with a mandrel bender to avoid flattening on the corners. TBH it might be worth investigating having a motorsport approved unit made, you may not want to do motorsport now (of course you might) but you never know what the future holds and it would be easier to deal with it now than later. In that case a bit of research for an approved builder would be advisable.
As for making a recommendation for an actual supplier I could but the postage from NZ might be a little expensive :-)
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Post by andrewb on Nov 30, 2022 10:51:47 GMT
This is one of the earlier models that should have had the straight roll bar and rearward bracing bars only.  |
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Post by kiwicanfly on Nov 30, 2022 19:02:35 GMT
I can't help you with the actual manufacturing but I can supply you with an accurate drawing if you want?
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Post by buildityourself on Nov 30, 2022 19:48:00 GMT
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Post by andrewb on Nov 30, 2022 22:15:15 GMT
I can't help you with the actual manufacturing but I can supply you with an accurate drawing if you want? I just need a rough idea of the height of the bar so I can get a similar one bent to the right size. If you have a drawing that would be great. |
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Post by perthwa on Jan 13, 2023 2:49:27 GMT
I can't help you with the actual manufacturing but I can supply you with an accurate drawing if you want? I just need a rough idea of the height of the bar so I can get a similar one bent to the right size. If you have a drawing that would be great. Apart from the poor bend quality, not by me, of the rear supports. here is a picture of my set up. You could use a ruler on the screen to get proportions.. I will measure when my car comes back from tuner...  I figure the engine cover will be the same for your as it is for mine. People have also queried my harness support bar as it is flat 5mm steel. I may strengthen it by making it Triangular by welding on a piece of angle iron to the rear. It is welded to the two ends and the diagonal crossmember. BUT DOT will be fussy.  |
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Post by Stiggy on Jan 27, 2023 20:18:51 GMT
Sit in the car and make sure the top of the bar is going to be above the top of your head by say 100mm. The RTR tube was ERW 2" with a 2mm wall. The picture above with me driving Rocket number one had a roll bar made of CDS with a 2.5mm wall. Best to find a local tube manipulator as that will be cheaper than the roll bar guys. Assuming you know someone that can mig neatly. Good luck, regards Stuart Mills
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