russhowell
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2004 1.8 Euphonic Mk 2.5 Arctic Blue 75,000Miles
Posts: 141
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Post by russhowell on Jun 3, 2019 9:01:39 GMT
After completing the floor in my living room, the body was carried out side and suspended over the chassis. I lowered it down and spent a day marking out cable\pipe runs and where to drill holes for p-clips. Raised the body up and drilled and inserted rivnuts and lowered down again. Its now all together and pclips all done up and body and chassis mated with a few loose bolts. Good to have it rolling so I can finally get the lawn mower out!
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russhowell
Full
2004 1.8 Euphonic Mk 2.5 Arctic Blue 75,000Miles
Posts: 141
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Post by russhowell on Jun 3, 2019 9:22:03 GMT
2004 1.8 VVT - Fuel Lines
Quick info about my fuel line runs, that Paul T clarified with me, for which I am very grateful. Only one fuel pipe needs to be run from back of car to front for this model.
Starting with fuel tank - the return pipe can be vented to air. Then one hose run from the Fuel Out, to front of car and plumbed into the Fuel Suppressor unit (not sure if correct name but it basically makes the fuel a steady flow). This then goes into engine\fuel rail.
The Out from the engine goes through the Charcoal Canister solinoid unit and then vents to air. Therefore you can delete\remove the charcoal canister and no need to return pipe back to the fuel tank.
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russhowell
Full
2004 1.8 Euphonic Mk 2.5 Arctic Blue 75,000Miles
Posts: 141
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Post by russhowell on Jun 4, 2019 7:52:51 GMT
Managed to fit the pedals and steering today. Pedals seemed to line up ok, and after shortening the steering column with a few whacks, all seems good. Just a couple of holes to buz through in the top bracket. Managed to fit the plastic cover as well, but still need to fix it into correct place.
I appreciate the accelerator pedal assembly could have had the spacers ground off and placed on engine bay side, to make top bracket hole line up, but not really an option as this would have pushed my brake servo hard lines into the frame. I'm just going to fix big washer under the top bracket so it spans the slot.
OR, do I have to have the spacers at all. Can i grind them off the pedal assembly and NOT use them at all ?
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1055
Newbie
Posts: 13
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Post by 1055 on Jun 4, 2019 14:33:00 GMT
The spacers give the pedal the correct tension on the throttle cable. without that, you may have an issue getting proper adjustment.
on my (exomotive provided) kit, the bulkhead was too thick, so I needed to shave SOME of the spacer off, but not the entire thing.
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russhowell
Full
2004 1.8 Euphonic Mk 2.5 Arctic Blue 75,000Miles
Posts: 141
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Post by russhowell on Jun 4, 2019 14:42:06 GMT
yeah i am thinking the main prblem is the brake pedals lever into the servo will be incorrect if i remove spacers. I think it is ok as is...
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russhowell
Full
2004 1.8 Euphonic Mk 2.5 Arctic Blue 75,000Miles
Posts: 141
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Post by russhowell on Jun 13, 2019 11:43:59 GMT
I will update soon on my next part of the build process which has been bulkhead and tunnel aluminium fitting, but during this I noticed my wheel arch brackets were rubbing on my wish bones. See pictures attached. I have approx 10cm clearance under the front of the car and my wishbones are horizontal\straight, but you can see that the bend in the bracket seems a bit low and is rubbing on the flange of the wish bone. I spoke to Stewart, and was informed they are all done on a jig and inaccurate bending not possible, and no other complaints received. Suggestions were to grind the flange of the wishbone, have longer ones made up which entails new jig work for approx £100 for two, grind and drill more holes in the bracket lower down so it could be slid up, or stick a washer in the top bolt hole to make it come away from the edge. As well as this problem, I have only 5 mm clearance between wheel arch support and tyre. Apparently my 205 45 R16’s are fat. So as my tyres are a little worn and I am unwilling to grind into my powder coat, or weaken the brackets, I am buying lower profile tyres of 205 40 R16’s. The difference between 40 and 45 is approx 15mm, which solves the clearance issue and I’ll be sticking a slim washer in the top bolt hole to ensure wishbone clears.
Ahhh, kit cars. Gotta love ‘em.
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Post by hammy3601 on Jun 14, 2019 10:33:10 GMT
Suggestions were to grind the flange of the wishbone, have longer ones made up which entails new jig work for approx £100 for two, grind and drill more holes in the bracket lower down so it could be slid up, or stick a washer in the top bolt hole to make it come away from the edge. As well as this problem, I have only 5 mm clearance between wheel arch support and tyre. Apparently my 205 45 R16’s are fat. So as my tyres are a little worn and I am unwilling to grind into my powder coat, or weaken the brackets, I am buying lower profile tyres of 205 40 R16’s. The difference between 40 and 45 is approx 15mm, which solves the clearance issue and I’ll be sticking a slim washer in the top bolt hole to ensure wishbone clears.
Ahhh, kit cars. Gotta love ‘em.
Good and easy solution, there's always a way mate
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russhowell
Full
2004 1.8 Euphonic Mk 2.5 Arctic Blue 75,000Miles
Posts: 141
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Post by russhowell on Jun 24, 2019 12:00:37 GMT
Bought some thin rubber matting and laid it into floor space.
Top tip from John and Luke, put nut covers on when you have torqued up as an easy reminder what ones you have done.
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russhowell
Full
2004 1.8 Euphonic Mk 2.5 Arctic Blue 75,000Miles
Posts: 141
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Post by russhowell on Jun 24, 2019 12:01:47 GMT
I cannot remember what to do with air bag in steerin wheel. Show its disconnected or do something else ? thank you
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Post by hammy3601 on Jun 24, 2019 15:33:03 GMT
I cannot remember what to do with air bag in steerin wheel. Show its disconnected or do something else ? thank you 3 ohm resistor in the plug mate
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Post by p2tav on Jun 25, 2019 7:16:20 GMT
I cannot remember what to do with air bag in steerin wheel. Show its disconnected or do something else ? thank you hi buddy, remove airbag and put some heavy foam in its place as you might be asked to show it. I had a picture of mine so he was fine with that. it cant be left with the air bag removed and just an empty space as he failed mikeeboy for leaving it empty that's who told me. as for light on dash I just removed bulb as not needed. don't forget to remove the air bag symbol on wheel as it can not say it and it not be there I just used Dremel on it. hope this helps cheers, Paul
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russhowell
Full
2004 1.8 Euphonic Mk 2.5 Arctic Blue 75,000Miles
Posts: 141
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Post by russhowell on Jun 25, 2019 8:24:17 GMT
perfect, thanks Paul, I can do all that easily.
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Post by jleigh5 on Jun 26, 2019 7:23:04 GMT
Hi, Is it IVA acceptable to just take the explosive device out and leave the actual bag in the wheel? There's obviously no way it could go off with the explosive not there.. Thanks
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russhowell
Full
2004 1.8 Euphonic Mk 2.5 Arctic Blue 75,000Miles
Posts: 141
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Post by russhowell on Jun 26, 2019 12:20:14 GMT
My coilover saga has ended. I was the one who got cheap coilovers from eBay. They were excellent on the rear, but the fronts, even when wound up literally the whole way up ended up with only approx 7cm clearance under the floor and the springs very compressed with only short distance to bump stop. Also the top wishbones were up at a crazy angle.
Anyway, I ended up getting Maxpeedingrods and although not road tested, I am over the moon with them. I have them wound out right now and have 12cm clearance (yes too much, but was just testing) and the springs have a huge amount of travel.
The magic is to do with the bottom of the shocks being able to be wound down to increase the total length of the shocks, without affecting the spring compression etc. To clarify: Bottom can be wound down to increase length of shocks - obviously you need to remove shocks from mounting so they can be rotated down the threaded shaft. Top can be wound up to adjust spring compression
Brill
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Post by hammy3601 on Jun 26, 2019 20:36:02 GMT
Me and others on here have road tested them and for the price point they are great mate. Glad you got sorted
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