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Post by lemans75 on Aug 30, 2019 22:41:06 GMT
Finally got the petrol filler neck installed. I had to increase the bend in the tube by a few degrees to get the metal filler pipe to fit. I also cut off the bead on the bottom end of the filler neck pipe to allow the new and very stiff rubber filler pipe to fit over the metal pipe.
I initially drilled holes to bolt the filler neck down but didn't like the way they showed and the way the new cap sat proud of the body so I opted to fit a rubber collar around the protruding neck and grind down the new cap to have it flush with the filler neck when open.
To cover the holes I made initially I found that a brass doorknob back plate was a perfect fit.
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Post by lemans75 on Aug 30, 2019 22:44:34 GMT
Moving to the rear of the car I needed to fit a number plate bracket along with a light and the reflectors. All in such a way that i could simplify things after inspection.
Here's what I came up with. The license plate bracket was a simple one from Amazon that houses an LED light and I connected it to one of the two stock plate lights to power it:
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Post by lemans75 on Sept 17, 2019 17:18:23 GMT
Buttoning things down for the final stretch. I won't go into detail on bolting the body down since it's fairly straight forward but the advise to take it slow and measuring twice should be heeded.
The hood/bonnet came first and I opted to use low profile button catches like some others have. I deviated a little from the plan by not using catches on the nose end of the bonnet and instead fabricating an alu lip that fits the front of the body.
The bolts I used up front are called "elevator bolts" and I added a rubber gasket between the bolt head and the body. Here's a photo of the alu lip I added that slots neatly under the main body and keeps that end secure.
On the other end I used the stock button but added a large fender washer to spread the load.
The button catches the pin that stick out underneath (note the dab of lubricant on the pin ). Without the dab of lube, the buttons were very stiff to operate and would not release the pin willingly.
I also added a washer as a base for the spring that pushes the bonnet up when released.
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Post by lemans75 on Sept 24, 2019 12:36:29 GMT
Final stretch - I'm waiting inspection date and getting the last few things buttoned up.
Hopefully I can get her on the road before the season forces me to put her away - she's raring to go!
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Post by lemans75 on Oct 1, 2019 17:42:53 GMT
Off we go to get the car a new VIN
and after an hour of scrutineering by a State Trooper we have success!
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Post by ancsportscars on Oct 1, 2019 21:03:43 GMT
Well done, James. What's the next steps in the registration process?
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Post by lemans75 on Oct 1, 2019 21:20:23 GMT
So now that I have a VIN I have contacted my insurance agent who is getting me set up with a policy (I already have a classic vehicle policy for my old airhead Beemer so he'll add me to that).
Then I take proof of insurance, proof I paid sales tax and the VIN paperwork to the RMV (DVLA) and they will issue me a new title for the car along with license plates.
Once that's done I can drive it down to my local petrol station/mechanic who does state inspections and they put it on the lift and go through their inspection process.
I'll probably ask him to give it an alignment at the same time...
Fingers crossed I'll be able to hit the road maybe as soon as next weekend!
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Post by lemans75 on Oct 4, 2019 22:46:37 GMT
RMV (DVLA) was a success, the car is now registered as a 2 door "coupe" despite my best efforts to explain to them that the term "spyder" would be more appropriate and that incidentally, it is an American term in origin. That might have pushed her buttons a bit and she was having none of it.
I now have 7 days to get it through it's regular equivalent of the MOT inspection and we are off! (with plenty more to do this winter)
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Post by lemans75 on Oct 7, 2019 13:25:48 GMT
The car passed most of its inspection but I got an R (Rejection) sticker because it failed to pass emissions. I think the problem is the guy turned off the engine mid-test which caused the failure or it could be that the cat was in need of some cycles to clear its throat.
Anyway, it means I have now have 60 days to put some miles on the car and get it re-tested.
I also fitted the last piece of the exhaust which is actually from a Ducati Multistrada but I think it "works":
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Post by tojeiro on Oct 9, 2019 13:45:37 GMT
There is a lot of experience in UK of having to get the engine very hot to get passed emissions. Expect lack of mileage during build doesn’t help. Luckily you can do long drives to clear it out, no such allowances in UK.
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Post by Stiggy on Oct 9, 2019 15:02:17 GMT
congrats Sir!
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Post by lemans75 on Oct 10, 2019 20:29:48 GMT
I forgot to post a quick tip when finishing off the windshield and window sections. Someone posted a note about "flaming" the edge or using some solvent to finish it off.
I started using a fine file and then a polishing wheel and that worked well but it was slow going.
I then tried using my 3.5 in. small trimming plane (cheap Stanley plane) with a well honed or new blade, and found that it removed beautifully thin slivers and leaves a very clean finish and is an easy way of planing out any "waves" along the top edge that seem to become more apparent once installed.
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Post by lemans75 on Oct 16, 2019 14:43:29 GMT
I've booked the car in for an alignment on Friday. Does anyone have any recommended settings?
All I have is the Exocet factory settings assuming a static ride height of 125mm.
Front: Castor 6 deg. Camber .5 deg neg. Track .5 deg toe in
Rear: Camber 1 deg neg. Track .5 deg toe in
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Post by lemans75 on Oct 25, 2019 12:33:17 GMT
All aligned and ready to roll. I haven't driven enough to have noticed an appreciable difference but a couple of things to note. The first is that my shock bodies are a little fat and when the car is up on stands, they rub on the upper front control arms. A little reading later I learned that the Exocet deals with this exact issue and has instructions to cut out that top section and they provide a "banana bracket" to bolt on in its place, thereby providing additional clearance in this exact spot. Here's the info from the Exocet IBG page along with some helpful info on extending the steering column: mevowners.proboards.com/thread/6488/important-builder-guidance-exocetThe second is that the tie rod ends are now very close to the brake rotors. I was a little concerned so I did some more reading and learned that this is not uncommon (especially with BBKs). The consensus seems to be to grind off some material from the tie rod end, especially on non-OEM which can be a little chunkier.
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Post by R2S on Oct 25, 2019 17:25:43 GMT
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