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Post by ianurban on Oct 28, 2018 12:26:21 GMT
I have a number of questions about the classic rocket
the older chassis has no roll cage shoulder bars if I want to add these
1. Who can add these and how much
2. It's powder coated does the chassis need to be stripped bare (all floor and panels removed) or is it possible to powder coat local area,s
3. Has the rest of the chassis design change in the last 10 years.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Oct 30, 2018 9:16:20 GMT
I have a number of questions about the classic rocket the older chassis has no roll cage shoulder bars if I want to add these 1. Who can add these and how much Anyone who can weld should be able to do that job. 2. It's powder coated does the chassis need to be stripped bare (all floor and panels removed) or is it possible to powder coat local area,s As far as I am aware there is no 'local' powder coating process, in order for pc to cure the object has to be heated to around 200 degree C, effectively you are melting the powder onto the object. There may be 'kits' available though, best search online. Most people touch up with the closest paint colour. I did read recently of someone who got some powder and was going to heat up the area where he had scratched his chassis but there will be the transition where the heat affects the coating on the heat boundary and thus you get a domino effect. 3. Has the rest of the chassis design change in the last 10 years. I believe the new Classic by EXO has differences from the old RTR (same company) chassis and that in turn changed around 2012 when they added the shoulder bars. Also the side diagonals changed about that time along with the position of the top and bottom cross tubes which form the rear firewall. Sounds like you have bought a completed kit, am I correct? Why do you wish to add the shoulder bars out of interest? |
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Post by ianurban on Oct 30, 2018 15:30:03 GMT
I haven't bought the kit just looking at it and all the possibilities. The reason is I like the look of the Rocket with the side bars and to buy something that is not really what I want may be more costly in the long run.
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Post by ianurban on Oct 30, 2018 15:33:09 GMT
Thanks for your reply on PC you are spot on with the full coat. Also in the last ten years I,m being told there has been nearly 40 upgrades to the chassis in one way or another
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Post by jason82 on Oct 30, 2018 19:28:17 GMT
Speak to kpower, he is the main man. He is finishing off his demonstrator now I think. Absolute top bloke !
He is the official classic rocket manufacturer.
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Post by casesensitive on Nov 1, 2018 20:31:11 GMT
My chassis was made in summer 2013, what used to be referred to as "MK2.5", and I've had to chop and weld back in a decent chunk out of the back, ruining the powdercoat. As Kiwi mentions, the heat from the weld, no matter how careful you are, you will melt and ruin the powder at least a few cm either side of the weld. I TIG welded it in short runs (no more than 50mm), and let it cool below 60* before going again. I took it back about 25mm from the edge of the intended welds, but ultimately lost more than that; about 30-45mm of powder around my transition plate. Some was still there, but just not right anymore. I've painted it in a shade of blue that was in stock at the motor factor on the day, just to prevent it from being exposed to the air. The plan is to blend the visible bits in a nicer shade when I have a bit more function car done, as I need to get done by March, wonky paint isn't the top of my priority list.  |
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Post by ianurban on Nov 2, 2018 18:47:40 GMT
Cheers everyone who replied I have my answer about the powder coat
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