russhowell
Full
2004 1.8 Euphonic Mk 2.5 Arctic Blue 75,000Miles
Posts: 141
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Post by russhowell on Aug 13, 2019 13:21:49 GMT
+1 re low battery can cause issues. I trickle charged mine over night.
I don’t think my tank is all that sealed. I blocked return inlet into tank. I still have little white valve for the roll over pipe attached.
I doubt filler pipe is air tight!?
Fuel got to engine after few cranks so maybe no need to prime,
Cheers Russ
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Post by snowbird1 on Aug 15, 2019 6:57:25 GMT
Had a go at the wiring over the weekend and had a couple of issues. I got the engine to turn over but would not start. Checked fuel was being sent and that was ok, but read last night that the fuel system is pressurised. Does that mean I need to seal the tank ( will use the donor filler pipes) to get the fuel to feed through? Also read in the owners manual I should prime the fuel system to avoid over cranking the engine is this needed? As stock the fuel tank is sealed but not pressurised, it is vented via the carbon canister to prevent petrol fumes venting to atmosphere. It won't make any difference to the car running if filler is open (but will cause the Check Engine light to illuminate). The pump should run for a few seconds when the key is turned on to pressurise the fuel system.
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Post by Stiggy on Aug 15, 2019 15:28:34 GMT
common starting problems are; 1. earths or lack of all of them. At least 7 earth points according to the build guide. 2. fuel pipes the wrong way around. Output from pump must go to opposite end of fuel rail to the pressure regulator. If you have tried starting and they are the wrong way around take care as you may get a face full of fuel when taking the pipes off.
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Post by mprmurray on Aug 21, 2019 15:14:48 GMT
Thanks for help so far. Not had much time recently but spent the last couple of nights checking fuel ( I have spark and wet plugs ) and then grounds which seems to be ok. I have found a couple of wires attached to what looks like an immobiliser unit or alarm! Any ideas were the red and grey wires from the box on the left go to as neither are connected to anything - red one has been butchered by a previous owner. Other wires from this go to the "UNITASSY-BURALM" on the right of the picture. Hopefully the electrics will not become a major stumbling block.. as keen to keep progressing. Thanks
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russhowell
Full
2004 1.8 Euphonic Mk 2.5 Arctic Blue 75,000Miles
Posts: 141
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Post by russhowell on Aug 21, 2019 15:22:21 GMT
I'll have a look later but can you provide a picture of what you want checked.
I stripped out a 3rd party alarm and re-joined wires that they were spliced into, and no longer require any of the fobs etc for that alarm.
Just the original key, which i understand is chipped and gets sensed by a ring around the ignition and double checked by the ECU to allow starting. I still have an immobiliser unit which i presume is the factory fitted and probably has some interaction to allow starting.
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Post by mprmurray on Aug 21, 2019 15:48:37 GMT
Thanks Russ.
In the image from the silver block there are 2 wires by the arrow at the bottom. The red ones goes through a fuse then to nothing. The grey wire is very thin and very long so could go anywhere!
My fob never worked and the car has always just started on the key so maybe the previous owner has already stripped out part or all of the alarm.
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russhowell
Full
2004 1.8 Euphonic Mk 2.5 Arctic Blue 75,000Miles
Posts: 141
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Post by russhowell on Aug 22, 2019 6:06:02 GMT
Hi Mark, The only alarm parts I have are in the pictures below.
I did a google on your part 5trk0200uk and it says its a Motorola Universal Car Tracker. Suggest you remove it.
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Post by mprmurray on Oct 14, 2019 22:23:35 GMT
Have been making steady progress with electrics, car starts and all lights etc working. I Connected up donor light clusters at presentand to test and then I have cut out a fair amount but reluctant to cut any more so trying to get exhaust and back section completed.
Have a mk 2.5 donor and exhaust does not fit so planning to use two Flexi sections to enable me to turn the mid section and have the box mounted at 90 degrees so it fits into the transmission tunnel, and then connect to the MeV back box. Do anyone know if this this going to cause any issues either with the exhaust or performance? Trying to avoid having to lay out money on custom exhaust as that will be project once it’s been on the road for a bit.
For full filer to tank has anyone used a stainless steel (exhaust) converter to go from the 45mm filler pipe down to 38mm tank opening. Planning to use donor filler neck which is 45mm to flexi hose, to convertor then part of donor hose down to the fuel tank opening! Lots of joints but all I can think of to get the bend and bridge the change in diameter of two end pieces.
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Post by mprmurray on Jan 15, 2020 13:07:02 GMT
Continuing to chip away at the to do list and sorted fuel filler by using a marine fuel filler cap and neck as these are the same size 38mm, as the outlet from the tank so you can just use the CBS flexible filler hose to connect this to the tank. I have put a hose vent on the venting hose from the tank so hopefully don't have any slow filling issues. Also picked up a great tip from a post by NJ way back in Dec 2016 and cut out a section on the front wing stay bracket to enable me to keep the ABS. Hope this helps someone else.
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Post by mprmurray on Mar 26, 2020 10:28:48 GMT
Gutted that IVAs have been put on hold as just about to submit the application hoping to get tested at the end of April and then enjoy driving over the summer. Have been putting in the hours to get done and with the brakes completed took the chance of cleaning out the garage and driving up and down a very short driveway. One issue I have is the car is on lowering springs and the front clearance is only about 8cm and I don't think I will be getting over any of the speed bumps where I live. What height are people getting on standard springs as probably have to switch back if significantly different as holding off expensive coilovers until upgrade time. At least I have plenty of time to finish things off properly, wings, bonnet, soldering wires for lights and side panels and infills the major tasks left, and then maybe go back to electrics to see what else I can pull out.
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Post by bewgy on Mar 26, 2020 14:41:32 GMT
I had the same issue, my springs were not expensive and even at max adjustment they was way low. I found and fitted these www.jassperformance.com/shop/RUBBER_SPACERS they worked a treat added around and inch of clearance which is enough to solve the bottoming out issue.
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Post by hutchey on Mar 27, 2020 16:28:43 GMT
Continuing to chip away at the to do list and sorted fuel filler by using a marine fuel filler cap and neck as these are the same size 38mm, as the outlet from the tank so you can just use the CBS flexible filler hose to connect this to the tank. I have put a hose vent on the venting hose from the tank so hopefully don't have any slow filling issues. Also picked up a great tip from a post by NJ way back in Dec 2016 and cut out a section on the front wing stay bracket to enable me to keep the ABS. Hope this helps someone else. Hi, you'll need to tether that fuel cap I believe, even though it doesn't have a key. Tank needs a breather or vent in it or a vented cap.
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Post by mprmurray on May 17, 2020 13:31:18 GMT
Iva application in and just waiting for date now, but have possible issue with seat belts.
Has anyone used seat belt extenders. I have a 2003 nb which would have had the short seat belt stalk attached to seat runner but I have cut this off and attached the stalk to the tunnel and now the belt reaches but not much room. I have already brought a type b extender with a 25cm buckle but the Mazda one is same width but shorter so will not engage. Searched everywhere on internet and no joy so far.
Is the mk1 long stalk suitable? Can anyone give me the dimensions of the buckle from a mk1?
Thanks
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Post by hutchey on May 17, 2020 18:11:11 GMT
Did you get the reply actually accepting your IVA paperwork or you just entered it? You submit then they either decline it with notes on what to correct or accept it and then they send you a link to pay online. Iva's were running at a 6 week lead time at my local one so after the 3 months lockdown (if they back by then) then all the last booked or pending once will be prioritised and then new ones accepted and booked. You might be lucky and get a cancellation before October. Hopefully
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Post by hutchey on May 17, 2020 18:13:09 GMT
Iva application in and just waiting for date now, but have possible issue with seat belts. Has anyone used seat belt extenders. I have a 2003 nb which would have had the short seat belt stalk attached to seat runner but I have cut this off and attached the stalk to the tunnel and now the belt reaches but not much room. I have already brought a type b extender with a 25cm buckle but the Mazda one is same width but shorter so will not engage. Searched everywhere on internet and no joy so far. Is the mk1 long stalk suitable? Can anyone give me the dimensions of the buckle from a mk1? Thanks I'd suggest ditching them then and getting ones that are the right length, it's not worth the hassle or safety concerns and I'd be amazed if IVA would let them through. If not then it would be a Fail
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