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Post by stevew on Sept 9, 2018 19:31:12 GMT
I now have front suspension that moves as it should. Thanks to Angus and Rally Design for getting it sorted. I have to say that RD have been really helpful, it did take them two attempts to get it right but they got there in the end and as soon as problems were pointed out they did what needed doing to rectify them without delay.
Steve
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Post by stevew on Oct 5, 2018 19:48:56 GMT
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Post by buildityourself on Oct 6, 2018 20:24:26 GMT
Great progress Steve. So the body does n't reach the chassis at the rear either? and you had to use the alloy plate to bridge it? This pic from the build manual doesn't show a gap?
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Post by stevew on Oct 7, 2018 6:18:29 GMT
Hi Stu
The side panels just about reached the chassis at the back but there was no way of fixing it and it didn't seem very stable to me. So the plate provides enough overlap to enable it to be fixed to the chassis, as well as covering the gap at the front edge.
steve
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Post by buildityourself on Oct 7, 2018 16:14:18 GMT
Hi Stu The side panels just about reached the chassis at the back but there was no way of fixing it and it didn't seem very stable to me. So the plate provides enough overlap to enable it to be fixed to the chassis, as well as covering the gap at the front edge. steve Ok thats good to know in advance. I would have been panicking.
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Post by stevew on Oct 7, 2018 19:11:12 GMT
I was worried at first as I could find nothing to line up that would locate the side panels in the correct place. A quick word with Angus put my mind at rest and I decided to go for fitting the front grill, rear panel and dash to give a good fit for the engine cover and bonnet before fixing the side panels in place.
Steve
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Post by stevew on Feb 6, 2019 15:58:22 GMT
I can't believe it is 4 months since I updated this thread. It seemed as though I hadn't made much progress as I have only been working on the car for a couple of hours at a time so tended to do the quick jobs. However the car now looks like this.. ...so I must have made some progress! There is still plenty to do though as it doesn't have an engine (although it is all ready to be dropped in) and no electrics. Ignore the number plate it's just one off the donor. Hopefully I'll get it finished by the summer and on the road in time for winter! Cheers Steve
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Post by buildityourself on Feb 7, 2019 21:44:46 GMT
Hi Steve,
Great progress, I'm jealous. Would be good to see some of the detail areas. Dash display, seat cushions, bonnet/headlight fittings etc.
stu
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Post by stevew on Feb 8, 2019 14:26:07 GMT
Hi Stu A few photos of the details you requested. I will not be using the seat cushions shown as I could not get a decent enough edge, so my wife bought me some proper ones for my birthday! The ones I made are closed cell foam and apart for the edge work well and insulate very well, nice and warm to sit on even on the coldest day. The headlamp brackets are aluminium angle bolted to the front chassis cross member, poking out through the sides. Need a bit more radiusing for IVA. The dash is an Acewell unit. I did try to mount it behind the steering wheel rather than centrally as it is, but the cable out the back of the unit and I wasn't sure I could get it past the chassis rail and didn't want to end up with an unused hole in the dash. The warning lights are all in the dash, the switches for lights, hazards, and rear fog are to the right of the steering wheel in the exempt area. I will put a power socket in the centre console sometime and possibly voltmeter and phone holder. I've used push button bonnet pins (don't have any photos at the mo) so the bonnet lifts off, not hinged. Cheers Steve
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Post by buildityourself on Feb 8, 2019 20:17:54 GMT
Thanks, thats great. I'm considering a different acewell dash too. Like the seat idea, I did see somewhere local that can do laser cutting in all sorts of material. Where do "proper seat" cushions for the sonic seats come from? Are the headlights 4" or 5" and where did you get them?
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Post by stevew on Feb 8, 2019 20:26:01 GMT
I couldn't find 'proper' seat cushions, which is why I tried to do my own. The ones I got are www.kitcardirect.co.uk/fibreglass-high-back-seat-padding.html they don't have the narrow piece up between the seat belt cutouts but look better. The lights are 4" Dominators from Furore Products, there seems to be some debate as to whether they are IVA compliant, but many have passed with them. Cheers Steve
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Post by stevew on Feb 17, 2019 13:57:29 GMT
This doesn't look right!
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Post by snowbird1 on Feb 17, 2019 14:17:48 GMT
Certainly isn't right - is your hub nut fully torqued? What thickness spacer is that?
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Post by stevew on Feb 17, 2019 14:33:17 GMT
The hub is fully torqued, either the bearing is moving in the upright or inner bearing moving in the outer, but it is a new bearing.
The spacer is 50mm to allow the same offset wheels front and rear.
Cheers Steve
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Post by kiwicanfly on Feb 17, 2019 18:21:53 GMT
On my RD hubs I found that the shoulder on the outer end of the axle stopped the bearing from seating correctly, I had to make a spacer (but washers would do it) to ensure the nut was not hitting this shoulder before the bearing was home.
You mention that the nut is "fully torqued" assuming we are talking about the same nut it does not need any torque, the inner race should just slide along the axle (I had to emery mine in a lathe to acheive this) and then I tightened the nut until all the play was out. Then backed the nut off until the pin would fit into a castle nut slot. Found it best to do this with the wheel on so I could rock it easily.
Those spacers are immense, we have a limit of 27mm in NZ and 25mm for motorsport, usually a reason for limits like that......
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