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Post by miket on May 8, 2018 20:16:10 GMT
Donor passenger seat fitting is one of the Exo challenges. Aswell as Tim's bracket option - which is great and you should probably buy them  - other approaches to pick'n'mix from are:- * Move one runner a notch or two along to alter the angle the seat takes. * Remove some of the recliner mechanism housing (see my 'Yorkie Novice Build' thread). Beware sharp edges / seat belts. * Put the seat back at the angle you want, push the seat back as far as you want it to be, then disconnect the slide adjuster cable from under the seat so it stays put in that position on the runners. Luckily the driver seat's a doddle. You'll probably have spotted the need to remove 'spikes's and straighten the ends. |
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jayz101
Junior
Brake time
Posts: 54 
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Post by jayz101 on May 11, 2018 7:40:30 GMT
Thanks for the Info Miket, Looks like I have a lot of good options when it come to fitting them. I am going to go for the brackets first as this seems to be the easiest solution. I am starting to get the idea about this kit building. When it says you can use the parts it means you can use the parts after cutting or welding or adjusting them first  Lots of fun though. |
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jayz101
Junior
Brake time
Posts: 54
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Post by jayz101 on May 11, 2018 8:02:23 GMT
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jayz101
Junior
Brake time
Posts: 54
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Post by jayz101 on May 11, 2018 8:33:22 GMT
Had a go at fitting the brake pipe from front to back today. I know that I was supposed to do this earlier  Its not that bad a job and I have elected for 200mm spacing for the retaining clips. I do have one question though and this is why it has taken me a while to fit these. I have two sizes of fuel line on the car 6mm OD and 8mm OD. Do I need two sizes for this car or can I just get 8mm and be done with it? |
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Post by hammy3601 on May 11, 2018 11:12:30 GMT
I’ve used 8mm on all my fuel injected cars, both feed and return
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Post by themorgster on May 11, 2018 14:32:18 GMT
Had a few hours yesterday so popped out a did a few bits. Have removed the front and rear brakes to see what sort of condition they're in. They look as expected with good pads on the front. I have ordered some new pads for the rear though as these look kinda bad. They seemed to work fine and had a fresh MOT on the car before scrapping so should be fine. Have bought a rebuild seal kit just to be sure though. Will order some pistons if needed. Am hoping to not have to buy them being on a very tight budget I just want the thing running for now. The sprucing will come in the years of ownership as I am planning on tracking this car and not sure if these brakes will hold up. If they are good they will no doubt come apart again in a winter rebuild.   Paint was dry on the front hub so had a go at fitting the front guard mount with some longer bolts. All seems to fit good. If anyone can see any issues with this then by all means let me know. I tried a wheel to see what sort of spacer I will need. The Donor did not have standard wheels on it but am sure they had to be the right wheels or would of looked odd, it seems I need 30mm spacers to fit the wheel in the arch. Are you guys running this sort of width? I have heard anything from 20mm to 30mm so not sure why there would be a difference. Am planning for a set of 16's for the track or even some lightweight sport 17s in the future but for now I am sticking to standard for IVA and also to see how she handles how she was designed to. Sticking with my plan of `get her built and just drive the thing`.   Your spacer size will depend on the offset of your wheels. You need to aim for a zero offset for the Exocet. If the offset on the wheel you are fitting(normally stamped on the inside of the rim, prefixed ET) is 38, you’ll need 38mm spacers on each hub. In reality, 30mm will do the job, but the closer to ET0 the better. |
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jayz101
Junior
Brake time
Posts: 54
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Post by jayz101 on May 25, 2018 7:53:47 GMT
Been back out again and fitted the seats using the brackets from Tim. Thanks Tim!  Passenger seat is now in and working well. I think that I will have to limit the rear travel due to rubbing on the frame but all good. Am a happy man. Finally go the bottle to have a go at the fuel lines. It seemed a bit tight in there and after planning out where I wanted the holes to go I am not sure on how they ended up. What do you guys think? will it pass IVA with the tops of the rivets next to the pipe like in the pictures? they don't rub and you can get a thick piece of card in between.  At the front my pipe benders kinked the pipe so need to shorten it to the kink and add my rubber flex hose to pass pipe inspection. Is there some kind of limit to where and when copper can be used for fuel line? For instance can you run the nylon pipe below? With the right ID www.hoseshop.net/metric-nylon-tubing-6mm-o-d-x-4mm-i-d?language=en¤cy=GBP&gclid=Cj0KCQjw6J7YBRC4ARIsAJMXXsdltMwQ9sUpqPMJ5S8QvSkg6gbpAsHAqGpMFGhp8BdM-_X50UZc36waAjUtEALw_wcB |
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jayz101
Junior
Brake time
Posts: 54
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Post by jayz101 on May 25, 2018 8:02:12 GMT
Had a quick go at fitting the internal trim as well recently. The front panel and tunnel supplied seem to go in straight forward enough. I used self tapping screws to locate the panel where I wanted it. I will go back and drill them out and replace with rivenuts and M6 bolts with washers.   Finished off the rear fuel pipe connections with the last rivets. Hope this is good enough. Will fit the rear sub-frame and see if this rubs on anything.  
Anyone see anything glaringly obvious that I have done wrong here? |
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jayz101
Junior
Brake time
Posts: 54
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Post by jayz101 on May 25, 2018 8:08:17 GMT
Having a go at fitting the seat belts. Have been looking at the frame and also the frames that the other Exocet have it seems the MSA spec frame has some quite considerable differences. The rear beam has been beefed up quite a bit. I am having a problem finding a way of fitting the top half of the belts though as there is no top mouonting bracket. I hope this seems clearer from the pic. I want to have harnesses in the car eventually but due to money restrictions and also the IVA I would like to fit the belts from the MX5. I will have a look through the build guides, they are all great by the way, and see what I can find regarding this.  |
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Post by Stiggy on May 25, 2018 9:05:26 GMT
Hi, you will need wrap around harness's for the racing roll bar. They will need E mark, IVA will not accept anything added for standard belts unless substantial and properly welded at the correct height and position from edge of seat.
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jayz101
Junior
Brake time
Posts: 54
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Post by jayz101 on Jun 2, 2018 18:14:35 GMT
More done on the brakes over the last few days. Seems the brakes are quite a big part of the build so far. Lots of cleaning and washing and scraping and washing done.   Have found a small issue with one of the worm gears so will need to put that on the list to buy. Made the decision that I am basing my design on the cadburys double decker choclate bar. Had trouble deciding what colours to go for and it made sense as IO like chocolate and the colour to go for it. |
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jayz101
Junior
Brake time
Posts: 54
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Post by jayz101 on Jun 2, 2018 18:31:13 GMT
After having a chat with a few people it seems I am doing things the wrong way round. As I am going to be doing all this work on my own and need to know that I can do most of the jobs on my own I have decided to fit the engine and then the gearbox and then the Diff. Had a long day but got them all in and to be honest it was really easy.  Wanted to fit the centre part of the power plant and needed to know where the wiring was going to go and how it was going to fix. This led me to have a go at fitting the wiring loom.    Removed a few bits that I know I wont need and also tried to see if I could use the rubber separators from the original firewall. Has anyone ever done this? Is it a good idea do you think? |
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Post by timbo on Jun 2, 2018 21:02:21 GMT
Coming along nicely Andy, glad to see the seat brackets worked out ok...
Some builders have used the original grommets (probably a slightly neater if more time-consuming solution), but there is enough room to run the wiring over the 2nd cross-bar and into your wiring tray if that is what you are planning. I would leave labels (or make a note) on the remains of the wires you've removed eg heater wiring, in case you want to add in anything later...
Tim
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jayz101
Junior
Brake time
Posts: 54
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Post by jayz101 on Jun 17, 2018 19:39:11 GMT
Next job is the tray for the Wiring loom. I have made the decision to keep the wiring as original as I can and not to have to much if any crossing over the main support from engine to inner try. Made a cardboard version to see what shape I am looking at.   Will have to make the the shape when I get hold of some Aluminium in the week. Next job is the hole for the Gearstick. Bit of measuring and cutting and seems OK. Will make bigger later once I have the gator.  Put some of the brakes together today just as I wanted to see what they looked like. The paint looks just as I wantedit. Well Happy. |
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jayz101
Junior
Brake time
Posts: 54
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Post by jayz101 on Jun 17, 2018 19:45:52 GMT
Rear hubs apart next with a clean up and a paint to boot. All seems good at the rear. Anyone know why the Driveshafts are so tight? Phew that was tough.   More cleaning of the Rocker cover at the end of the day. Going to get a new paint job soon. :-)  |
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- other approaches to pick'n'mix from are:-
