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Post by harryburnett on Mar 6, 2018 10:13:55 GMT
Look at the anti theft diagram in this manual www.mellens.net/mazda/mazda_miata_extra_manual/2001_wiring.pdfThat was 90% accurate to mine which is also a 98 mk2. 100% this is the reason your car won't start. The green wires are nothing to do with the immobiliser. You should have another 2 wires that go back to the immobiliser on the main harness. Also make sure when you are trying to start it you are using the key with the red chip on it. Having a look at the diagram and not really sure what I'm looking for... I can see the immobiliser wires coming out of the main harness and it's connected the immobiliser, this doesn't needed to be grounded does it?
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Post by harryburnett on Mar 6, 2018 10:18:10 GMT
Look at the anti theft diagram in this manual www.mellens.net/mazda/mazda_miata_extra_manual/2001_wiring.pdfThat was 90% accurate to mine which is also a 98 mk2. 100% this is the reason your car won't start. The green wires are nothing to do with the immobiliser. You should have another 2 wires that go back to the immobiliser on the main harness. Also make sure when you are trying to start it you are using the key with the red chip on it. Also every key is the same and I can't see any red chip on it!
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Post by mikeeyboy on Mar 6, 2018 10:44:13 GMT
There is a black ground wire from the immobiliser box that is shown on the diagram. If you have connected every ground that was on the loom originally you should have this covered, if you are not sure trace the wire? Use a multimeter on each end to check continuity to know you have the right wire, or stick a multimeter on the immobiliser end of the black wire and put the other side of the multimeter to an earth point on the car.
From the immobiliser box there is a yellow/green and yellow/red wire that runs to the steering column, you need to make sure this is connected into the column. The plug will only fit in one connector so should be easy to spot.
Then for sanity's sake you can test continuity between the red/black cable at the immobiliser and the red/black pin 3s of the ecu.
Also use a multimeter to check whether the 15A engine fuse is not blown and the 10A room fuse. The room fuse can be misleading as you dont always register the immobiliser needs it.
I cannot help you with the key situation as I am not a security expert. The first time I started mine up it would only start on the key with the red chip. After this it seems to start on either of them (one doesnt have it).
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Post by harryburnett on Mar 6, 2018 10:47:49 GMT
There is a black ground wire from the immobiliser box that is shown on the diagram. If you have connected every ground that was on the loom originally you should have this covered, if you are not sure trace the wire? Use a multimeter on each end to check continuity to know you have the right wire, or stick a multimeter on the immobiliser end of the black wire and put the other side of the multimeter to an earth point on the car. From the immobiliser box there is a yellow/green and yellow/red wire that runs to the steering column, you need to make sure this is connected into the column. The plug will only fit in one connected so should be easy to spot. Then for sanity's sake you can test continuity between the red/black cable at the immobiliser and the red/black pin 3s of the ecu. Also use a multimeter to check whether the 15A engine fuse is not blow and the 10A room fuse. The room fuse can be misleading as you dont always register the immobiliser needs it. I cannot help you with the key situation as I am not a security expert. The first time I started mine up it would only start on the key with the red chip. After this it seems to start on either of them (one doesnt have it). This is great stuff thankyou very much! I shall try and attempt this all now and I'll get back to you on how it goes. Thanks again, a huge help!
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Post by harryburnett on Mar 6, 2018 11:22:23 GMT
There is a black ground wire from the immobiliser box that is shown on the diagram. If you have connected every ground that was on the loom originally you should have this covered, if you are not sure trace the wire? Use a multimeter on each end to check continuity to know you have the right wire, or stick a multimeter on the immobiliser end of the black wire and put the other side of the multimeter to an earth point on the car. From the immobiliser box there is a yellow/green and yellow/red wire that runs to the steering column, you need to make sure this is connected into the column. The plug will only fit in one connector so should be easy to spot. Then for sanity's sake you can test continuity between the red/black cable at the immobiliser and the red/black pin 3s of the ecu. Also use a multimeter to check whether the 15A engine fuse is not blown and the 10A room fuse. The room fuse can be misleading as you dont always register the immobiliser needs it. I cannot help you with the key situation as I am not a security expert. The first time I started mine up it would only start on the key with the red chip. After this it seems to start on either of them (one doesnt have it). OK so I checked the ground wire on the immobiliser box and that was fine. The yellow/green and yellow/red wires from the immobiliser are connected to this plug under the steering column. Now the only black wires coming out of the immobiliser are solid black and black/white, no red/black. However there was a red/dark blue cable from the immobiliser and also on the ecu and that worked when testing for continuity, not sure if it the same thing? Checked both fuses and they were fine, tried to start the car again and still nothing... I just want my Exocet to start is that too much to ask!
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Post by mikeeyboy on Mar 6, 2018 11:29:22 GMT
What happens on the dash when you try to start it? Is there a key symbol?
Can you hear the fuel pump buzz when you are trying?
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Post by harryburnett on Mar 6, 2018 11:33:49 GMT
What happens on the dash when you try to start it? Is there a key symbol? Can you hear the fuel pump buzz when you are trying? When the key is in the "on" position the handbrake, airbag and battery symbol light up and when I try to start it the those three symbols dim a lot but nothing else comes on at any time. Yep heard the fuel pump working when trying to start it.
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Post by harryburnett on Mar 6, 2018 16:20:30 GMT
I think I may have found the problem, the camshaft position sensor, seen people try and start their Mx5 on YouTube with a bad sensor and it looks like the same issue, plus I've been removing it quite a bit to get the rocker cover off so fingers crossed!
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Post by harryburnett on Mar 7, 2018 0:47:06 GMT
First mess up of the project... I had a local mechanic come look at the exocet and he pointed out that i didn't crank the engine by hand to top dead centre when i replaced the timing belt. This means that the engine timing is now not 10 degrees like it should be causing it not to start. My issue is i have a MX5 MK2 1.8 and I've read this model doesnt have any manual timing adjustment and instead is done by the ecu. If this is correct would the timing not change even though i have messed up the procedure? Thanks
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Post by Stiggy on Mar 8, 2018 13:33:21 GMT
It won't run if the mechanical timing is out, are you 100% sure you fitted the timing belt correctly?
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Post by harryburnett on Mar 8, 2018 13:48:49 GMT
About 30 minutes ago I just got it started and moving! Amazing feeling! It was the timing but fixed that now and it runs like a dream! Thanks all for your help
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