Thanks for your kind words... you’re right, there is a lot more to it than a few bolts and away you go!
I have fitted the front & rear sub frames now. Only did this so I can move it out of the garage to have a tidy up / get to my other stuff. Pretty good feeling to have it rolling though (even if it is temporary).
There is nothing at all practial about building your own car. It is one of the beauties of doing just that. It is something that money alone cannot buy. It satisfies your soul and feeds your ambitions. You'd be doing it wrong if you didn't partially assemble it to get the feel of how it will look...... and it does look fantastic... good going.
Fitted the pedals and steering column this morning. Not a simple job, lots of trial an error extending and shortening the column. Also had some difficulty with the pedal assembly’s, specifically lining the top of the brake/accelerator up with the the bar that’s part of the chassis. With the assembly flush to the bulkhead the top was about 30mm above the bar! Spacers (on both sides of the bulkhead) helped, but I ended up cutting the end off and welding in something that would fit, so it could be bolted down. All good now and the pedals all line up!
Post by Mills Extreme Vehicles on Sept 8, 2018 11:13:29 GMT
Glad you got that sorted, it appears that the end of the brake pedal has been cut off thus it is not long enough. In the picture below you can see the position of the brake light switch with about 40 mm of bracket beyond. Yours seems to be about flush at the end of the steel with the edge of the switch.
Modified the Mk2 seat runners today. Not much to it really, the picture below (side-on, pre-modified on the right) shows the 3 modifications required for the adjuster side (the other side is just bending the mountings flat). 1. Bend mounting hole flat by clamping it in a vice or to a workbench & apply requisite pressure. Grind /cut off the locating spike. 2. Cut off the seatbelt mounting plate. 3. Cut a small triangle out of the side of the runner, bend until the mounting hole is flat & weld up.
I thought I’d finally start to tackle the engine this evening. Got as far as: replacing the front crank seal, which was leaking like Trumps leadership team (put a couple of screws into it and pulled it out), removing the cam belt & exhaust camshaft, and finally setting up the shinny new valve spring compressor (ready for replacing those leaky stem seals).
All that’s left to replace now is: 16 valve stem seals 2 cam seals 2 tensioner pulleys 1 tensioner spring 1 water pump 1 cam belt 1 rear crank seal 1 cam cover gasket 1 sump plug 1 oil filter 4 spark plugs All the hoses and the HT leads.
The really annoying thing is... it will be months before I fire it up and find out that the piston rings have gone!
Well done, really good effort. Check your woodruff key for damage etc, I replaced mine as a matter of course due to the horror stories. I took my head off & the piston crowns were quite badly carboned up, so I am dipping them & replacing the rings, bearings, crank seals & injector seals, while the cylinder head goes off for a skim, polish & port. I didn't want to really, but as it was easy to get to I thought that I would get it done.
Net build cost so far £7500 1996 1.8 abs delete & power steering Latest purchase: Dominator 2 projector headlamps, lighting kit, fuel filler hose & mirrors.
Replaced all of the valve stem seals over the last 2 days... that was fun! After spending over an hour on the first one without success, I finally found a method that worked for me. The problem isn’t the seal itself, but replacing the keepers. You need 3-4 hands as the spring needs to be compressed while you try and locate the two keepers around the stem, the right way up, and lined up with the retainer. I ended up holding the compression lever down with cable ties, applying grease to the valve stem and then sticking the keepers to the grease. Cut the cable tie and slowly release the compression, and the keepers locate in the retainer and.. voila! Once I’d done a couple, it became somewhat easier. The woodruff key was in good condition, looks like the cam belt had been done at some point too, but I’m replacing it anyway. The engine is (relatively) low miles (for the year) at 97k, so I’m not expecting too much trouble with valve seats, piston rings etc. Oh... almost forgot, a bloody moth flew in under a cam wile I was taking it off! Still haven’t found it! I guess my oil will have an organic element for a few hundred miles!!
Ok, so my EGR vacuum switch has both plastic hose connections snapped off. Seems to me I have 2 options: 1) buy a new switch - £25 2) delete the EGR - free!
I’m not a fan of the EGR, leaking exhaust into my inlet seems like a good way to add carbon deposits to the inlet for questionable emissions improvement. I’ve deleted the EGR on a diesel focus I owned in the past (because it wasn’t worth replacing). The question is: will this throw up a error dash light and, if so, will it fail an IVA / MoT?