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Post by davefromdownunder on Jan 29, 2019 1:50:09 GMT
Hi Bruce.
Just wondering if you have spoken to an approved auto engineer about the chassis testing or if you have any docs to show the chassis complies with the 4000Nm per degree torsional strength.
Cheers
Dave
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Post by davefromdownunder on Jan 29, 2019 1:50:51 GMT
My Chassis has hit the dock and just waiting on delivery now to start
Cheers
Dave
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Post by perthwa on Jan 29, 2019 9:09:22 GMT
The importer into Perth - Southam Engineering is also a DOT authorised engineer. He is going to look after all of those details when I complete the build.
So, the short hand answer is no, I don't have those specs. Try contacting Terry. He has a website, but I suggest phone him as he is a little old school with the 'inter-web"!!!!
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Post by perthwa on Jan 29, 2019 9:15:45 GMT
Visit from Steve. I had my nearest Sonic 7 and the latest build here in WA visit today... Good source of knowledge and a nice car to reference from. This is the yellow and black one that I have previously shown an image of. He is also the owner of a 'locost' Caterham that he built 10 years ago. Interesting to here about the vagaries of the fibre glass panel fit.. Also told me that you need to keep all receipts and some proof of a build to prove to DOT that you built it under 'individually constructed vehicle' rules and didn't just by it from a commercial entity. Roll bar Was looking at how I was going to mount the seat belts, because I was keen to weld in the seat brackets, because I was mounting the gear shift and hand brake mechanisms... The usual picture of 4 or five interlocking decisions... I was contemplating the 4 or 5 point harness because I had appropriate seats... then had some information from Steve about the annoying nature of the harness... so I started looking at the easier mounting of the lap-sash inertial system out of the donor... Both needed to have a above shoulder mounting spot... then I went to the distributor as he said I could buy a M roll bar he had lying around... So i did... p.s. this is just clamped in for a quick photo... I know it is not central...  Now I have decided to use a harness as the M bar has 4 holes already waiting for a bolt... Then I just need to make up the same frame rail attachment points for the other 2 ends... Now my only decision is to use a harness that has a convenient seatbelt type latch mechanism (see photo) which I believe will be road compliant BUT not race compliant... OR whether I go with the more conventional 'attach all of the harness bits and the latch' type harness that WILL be race compliant... I am happy to take some advice here... especially as I probably will never race this car!!! ![]()  |
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Post by davefromdownunder on Jan 30, 2019 23:49:39 GMT
Hi Bruce
You need to check the harness regulations.
I was pretty sure that under ADR regs you have to have a retractable lap sash belt that is ADR approved.
My engineer told me that if the cops want to be narky they can give you a ticket for just having a 4 point harness installed even if you are not wearing it.
I wanted to fit a 4 point on mine and the engineer agreed that if properly adjusted it is safer but if someone else gets in and does not adjust it it is not as safe as a retractable lap sash belt.
As no harnesses are adr compliant they are viewed as a non approved modification.
Cheers
Dave
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Post by cricky on Jan 31, 2019 5:47:24 GMT
I’ve been thinking about this issue for my car. The harness won’t be ADR compliant but the easiest way to satisfy the rules would be to install both.
Use whichever you want while driving, harness for track and lap sash for the road to stay legal may be best.
If you happened to use the harness on the road, the worst that the police could book you for is not wearing your seatbelt.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Jan 31, 2019 6:51:51 GMT
Not sure how Oz differs from NZ on this but these are my thoughts.
We can only use a harness on the road if there are no rear seats in the car, either if the car is a two seater or the rear seats have been removed.
I installed Sabelt four point in my Rocket, did not like them. I could not get the lap belt to stay on my hips. It kept riding up onto my stomach which is quite dangerous. The belts where pull down adjusted on the lap and proved difficult to pull down enough.
I replaced the driver side with a Schroth Clubman six point with pull up adjusters. It is so much better, way more comfortable plus everything sits correctly. Of interest is that it has 3" shoulder straps but 2" lap and crotch, Schroth reckon 3" lap belts are actually less safe.
The whole idea of six point belts is to stop submarining (sliding under the lap belt) if you don't like the idea of a six point though Schroth offer a four point anti-sub design. Can't explain how it works but it makes sense.
I also think five points are going to be banned for racing by the way, not 100% sure on that.
Whatever you do though definately ensure you get pull up adjusters, so much easier and quicker to adjust which equals safer.
Another wierd thing is that at clubsport level if I install an FIA or SFI harness it has an expiry date. But if I install road rated harnesses they have no expiry date, work out the logic in that rule!
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Post by perthwa on Apr 22, 2019 14:17:13 GMT
Back in the shed... Shock and horror... stopped making excuses and two weeks holiday... and the son having a few days to assist... and I have done some serious progress. Not sure how I will add photos at the moment as my access to my other website has been cut short... Progress: The engine is out, The engine mounts have been constructed... i.e. made and welded in. Well, mostly welded... The subframes that I cut in the engine bay have been replaced with some modified alternative metal and we are welding them in directly. The "son" decided that we needed a rotisserie, so with the aid of a few BIG bits sitting around we have 99 percent built one. We actually used a pair of supports that my father-in-law used to carry long lengths of pipe on his pickup (a.k.a. Ute!) Three more welds and a few bolts and we should be able to rotate the body 360 degrees.    That should make many of the welds a bit more horizontal, therefore easier to weld and neater...Then I can clean up and finish all of the subframe welds. The seat brackets that I finished making last year have been cleaned up again and can now be welded in place...especially now that I can turn the frame upside down. At the end of that, I will fit the body panels as I have been avoiding that task because I was frustrated by the engine location. Now the engine position is set, the drive shaft location is fixed, and I can cut out some holes. Then I will construct and weld in the roll bar brackets so I can fit the roll bar.  Then I can construct and weld in the seat belt brackets and fit the seatbelts. Then radiator size and source and fit. ditto for fan etc. Well that is the plan for the next week before I go back to work. Photos coming... The 'donor' lower wishbone end that I used for my RHS engine mount. The hacked up and modified cross-members in the engine bay. The rotisserie.  |
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Post by perthwa on Apr 24, 2019 4:24:01 GMT
The rotisserie was the best invention ever...
I can not believe how much easier almost every task is... welding especially...
I can't believe how time consuming welding is either... possibly less time consuming if I was any good at it...
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Post by perthwa on Apr 28, 2019 13:56:43 GMT
Update: Seats mounted. Inertial seat belt brackets made and welded (mostly) in. just waiting to put back on rotisserie to finish those few welds. Seat belt bottom bracket mounted. I decided to do 'threaded crush tubes' that I made up and welded in place and have used most of the original seat belt mounting hardware. Both sides done. Now just have to decide on the 'stalk' end to fit in between the handbrake lever and the seats. The originals have explosive pre-tensioners and are not long enough. Placed the roll bar in situation and have been looking at upper location for the lap sash attachment. Have fabricated some 6mm brackets to weld onto the roll bar. I will be doing another set of threaded crush tubes to locate the roll bar bracket bolt that will pass through the framework; that seems easiest. I am in the process of adding some more bracket work to the frame to attach the bottom of the roll bar plate to. i.e. making more car 'structure' to fix the roll bar to.  I did place the side panels and grill work on to the frame. trimmed some of the fibre glass where it hits the engine mounts. Hood fits over without trimming. So making progress. Now some Rivnuts and some extra bracket supports for the body attachment. then Radiator sizing and procure, then ... Back to work tomorrow... BUT I am motivated to do some 'after-work' stuff... |
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Post by perthwa on Jun 2, 2019 7:06:00 GMT
Update June 2 - 2019
Have been working on the front bonnet mounting and have decided to do a rear pivoting bonnet with the DOT two stage catch, from the original Focus, mounted at the front. (not quite sure how I will reach the manual opening thing apart from reaching under the grill, but I will work on that). The rear hinges on the front bonnet will be the rear boot hinges from the original focus and I will add a spring to each side. Getting some fibreglass so I can attach the brackets without drilling a hole in the bonnet.
Working on the rear engine bay cover soon. Now the roll bar is attached correctly, I will probably integrate it to the rear engine cover... still thinking about the pivoting mechanism. Work in progress...
The inside seat belt attachment is an issue... I welded up a bracket that is attached to the seat rail, but the attachment location is level with the each of the seat bolster BUT it is just above the HIP location and I think it will be rejected by DOT... so I have made a decision to reduce the stalk length and then use a DOT approved extender (one used for booster seats) and this can fit through the hole in the seat below the hip and therefore be more suitable for approval...
Mounted the Dash board by welding on a couple of brackets to the dash frame rail. Added some Rivnuts, bolted the panel in place so I could then mount the bonnet etc... Then fixed the front of the dash panel to the frame using some more Rivnuts.
more to come...
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Post by perthwa on Jun 14, 2019 12:57:41 GMT
Well - How to throw a spanner in the works... Buy a Locust car in parts with a 75% built frame. Yeh - I know that seem silly but when the opportunity arises to pick up the following list of parts for $2k.... I mean why wouldn't you? Locost Book chassis, 75% welded Suspension arms with adjustable camber Silvertop low km motor(60k) and ancillaries (with and Engine stand included.) Corolla T50 gearbox Correct tailshaft Escort van diff 3.77 to 1 with 9” drums Full set of ROH alloy mags and tyres Escort steering rack shortened and with correct track rod extenders Cortina mk 3 discs, calipers, uprights Mini van fuel tank (30 litre) Toyota steering column and dash instrument Imported pedal box assembly Gemini seats Correct speedo drive to convert to electronic speedo A set of coil over shocks White pointer fibreglass nose cone and full set of guards A pair of headlights Plus a myriad of other parts that I haven't even unpacked yet. So the plan now is to build both at the same time. They are about at the same stage and the Locost may be a bit closer to being a rolling chassis. In a number of ways this might just save time as duplication of some fixtures might just be possible.  Anyhow. for now it is back to the bonnet Hinge... Have constructed one side, just need to duplicate and then test fit and then fibre glass and glue on the brackets to the bonnet..  |
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Post by buildityourself on Jun 14, 2019 13:20:06 GMT
wow thats brave, but easy to see the draw.
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Post by perthwa on Jun 30, 2019 11:18:40 GMT
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Post by perthwa on Jun 30, 2019 11:43:14 GMT
Updated Sonic Images. I have found a new website to dump my images... so here are a few ... Here is a better picture of the rotisserie.   This is the left hand frame attachment for the Engine mount.   I had to weld this nut in place on both brackets as it was too tight to insert bolt afterwards.  |
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hopefully some updated photos.
