|
Post by perthwa on Jul 14, 2018 12:08:03 GMT
thanks for the additional information.
Today I GTAW aka TIG welded the rest of the nuts into the seat supports. Also used the Stick welder for some of the harder to get parts. Then I fitted all of the brackets with clamps into the frame of the Sonic. Had to trim the two longer L shaped ones to the correct length; I left a little extra length to allow for the gap between the seats. I have about 5mm between the widest part of the seat.
Then the handbrake lever started to annoy me so I effectively narrowed it down to about 2/3 of the original width. Then butt welded the new 'narrower' bits back together. Then I got fussy about my original welds so I filled a couple of dodgy welds and cleaned that up. Then I test fitted the seats with all bolts in place and checked the forward and backward clearances.
I feel that the Hand brake lever will need to go on a slight angle with handle pointing a bit off centre towards the right hand headlight.. This will mean it sits better between the two seats, allows a decent grip, allows clearance to the shifter and should not foul the drivers seat as it slides forward...
Basically a ten hour day that I ended with a short spell sitting in both the driver's seat and the passenger's seat, but not at the same time. Happy with the progress.
I also spent some time doing some test bead runs with the GTAW welder. Learning curve is huge... practice, practice and more practice.
I will test weld some spare brackets onto some spare frame rail tubing before I clean up the frame ready for welding the brackets permanently in place.
|
|
|
Post by kiwicanfly on Jul 16, 2018 9:10:27 GMT
Question: Should I spray the inside of the channel with some primer/ rust prevention stuff? I will need to leave the last inch or some clean so I do not contaminate my TIG welding to the frame rails? I sprayed the whole of my chassis with dry film protection whilst building. Cleaned it off prior to painting. Sprayed the inside of each tube after painting. If you are going to use any coating that uses heat (powder or baked paint) you will have to ensure that you get any such coating completely off prior to coating as it sure to run out and ruin the finish!
|
|
|
Post by perthwa on Jul 16, 2018 12:55:26 GMT
Thanks, I never thought about the effect that it would have on the final coating. Good point. UNIVERSAL ARRIVES: I arrived home tonight and was greeted by my universal joint. The grub screw is very close to the end of the joint. When I looked at the Cortina shaft the locating groove is also very close to the end of that shaft. When joined there was only about 1cm of overlap... not what I would call confidence building. You can see that I have made a new groove in the shaft that is adds an additional 0.75cm to the overlap. Almost double and I am happy with the modification. You can see the ground out section in this photo. Then I measured the connecting length for the shaft, cut it, reduce the last 25mm of shaft diameter down to 18.5 mm as it was about 21mm, rather than 3/4" that it needed to be. Then I Double D'd the end. Voila. And here is the final join. Now just need to drill the hole for the retaining bolt and then make a little flat spot for the shaft pin. Firewall next. Thanks to a number of good suggestions. That should be easy. I did notice that the lower Focus ball joint may now protrude into the firewall and I might need to make a recess for some clearance but that won't be a problem now I own a TIG!.
|
|
|
Post by perthwa on Jul 18, 2018 11:18:19 GMT
Fire wall support bearing: Came home from work and decided that I could attempt to make my own free bearing support mechanism. I found a bearing in the shed so I had a good start. I used some 8mm Aluminium plate, used a hole-saw to cut a 44 mm on one side and a 50mm side on the other side. Then filed / ground out the difference in both plates. Then fitted the bearing in the middle. This is the almost completed part; the bearing rotates and is also captive so it will not fall out. I just need to join the two sections together, probably with bolts. Then I will mount it to the frame with enough clearance to avoid the steering joint at the firewall. Oh, and I will also remove all of the tooling marks when I join the two bits together.
|
|
|
Post by drbrian on Jul 18, 2018 23:16:33 GMT
buy and after market steering wheel cheap $30 and smaller make it more comfortable while driving.
|
|
|
Post by perthwa on Jul 19, 2018 11:16:07 GMT
I probably will buy a smaller steering wheel after I pass the dreaded Australian DOT regulations. And here is my finished steering fire wall bracket. And the reverse side with the threaded section. Just have to mount it in the right spot. I am happy. Next job! Weld in the seat brackets. Thought I should include a photo of it roughly in place. Welded on some square tube to mount to frame. Clamped here but will eventually bolt it up.
|
|
|
Post by perthwa on Jul 28, 2018 11:26:17 GMT
Rear Suspension Made up some polypipe bearings to try a fitment of the rear suspension so that I can get my engine bay sorted. These photos show that it is at full compression at 25 cm (10") and the green spirit level shows that the bottom arm is not even level (aka horizontal); so that means that the full compression will be before the arm is horizontal? This photo shows full extension at 13" (33cm). check out the cutout to allow access for the 12mm suspension bolt. I figure that I should be making up a sleeve to fill that in and keep DOT happy. The last photo is a very crude look at the vertical nature of the face plate. Just so I have some idea about likely camber issues. Now I will go looking at all the posts that people have written about discrepancies of shock mounting angles and full extension etc... before I start to think about dropping my motor into location and commence work on the mounts and cutting a couple more engine bay struts...
|
|
|
Post by davefromdownunder on Aug 23, 2018 2:19:32 GMT
Hi From Queensland I am Dave and I am looking to also build a sonic. I cannot get one from here so importing the kit from Equilibrium in the UK and then modding the chassis to take a 2008 honda 3.0 lt v6. I think I will have to extend it slightly to allow room for the exhaust. Have you sorted your exhaust as with the manifold on the other side there is not much space for the cat and silencer? I like the idea if fitting the abs system and have been thinking of doing the same. I am looking at the auto box with tiptronic. The dimensions seem to be almost the same as your engine, just a bit wider and more exhaust pipes. The weight is a little heavier and I think the car will go somewhere around the 650 kg mark but with 265hp standard it should still go pretty hard. I found Terry from Southam not to be very helpful as I think he is winding up that side of the business. Did you discover any differences between your chassis and the UK model?
I am hoping to get back pricing on the kit from the UK soon. Already keeping an eye out for a good donor at the salvage auctions.
Cheers Dave
|
|
|
Post by perthwa on Aug 26, 2018 5:37:03 GMT
|
|
|
Post by davefromdownunder on Aug 27, 2018 1:17:27 GMT
Hi Again
Just wondering about the steel in the chassis. Is it standard painted rhs or is it something more exotic. I would have thought that seamless drawn Chromemoly would be best but very very expensive. I would think that the base frame would need to be bigger to allow for the floor being riveted on as any holes in the chassis will almost halve the strength and rigidity. I am considering either seam welding or brazing on the floor ( maybe 1.2mm steel plate) for increased strength and rigidity. I do tend to overbuild but do not want to end up with a 200kg chassis..
Cheers Dave
|
|
|
Post by kiwicanfly on Aug 27, 2018 3:32:40 GMT
I would have thought that seamless drawn Chromemoly would be best but very very expensive. Chromemoly requires a much higher level of skill for welding which I would be suprised at being available within the manufacturing companies that have made these previously. I would think that the base frame would need to be bigger to allow for the floor being riveted on as any holes in the chassis will almost halve the strength and rigidity. I did some analysis with FEA software of the effect of drilling holes for rivets, I was buidling a Rocket and wanted to use rivnuts which demand a bigger hole than rivets. I was surprised how big a hole, and how many holes, I could make with negligible detrimental effect. Also you say that you would think it would be need to be bigger to allow for the riveting, I assume you are referring to a bigger section material, however it is the other way round - as it was designed to allow for riveting then it could be argued an alternative 'better' method of floor fixing could allow it to be made of lighter section. I am considering either seam welding or brazing on the floor ( maybe 1.2mm steel plate) for increased strength and rigidity. I do tend to overbuild but do not want to end up with a 200kg chassis.. You'd add roughly 12kg from the change of material alone, alum and rivets work very well. If you really don't want to drill it though you could use industrial double sided tapes, i looked into this seriously and reckon it would work but they are not so good on powder coating (almost useless) plus the Rocket has round tube, could work well on a Sonic with its flat faces.
|
|
|
Post by davefromdownunder on Aug 28, 2018 7:04:44 GMT
Hi Again Sorry to ask what maybe silly questions. I was a bit loath to use rivets as over time with any flex of the chassis I think they would loosen up due to the stress. Are you using aluminium or steel or stainless steel rivets? I would like to bond the floor prior to powder coating as well. I was also considering installing aluminium composite panels in the side cabin area to help with intrusion protection and rigidity. What are your thoughts on that? I am not sure about screwing and bonding the floor ( sikaflex) before powder coating too. I have decided on my donor, it will be a 1998 - 2001 Honda Prelude. Seems reasonably priced and around 200 hp with no mods. I would be doing a full rebuild on the engine and trans mission before installation. This model seemed to be the latest with the exhaust on the firewall side when installed in the sonic as well as will meet the required emissions requirements for an ICV too. I was considering the windscreen option until I went through the ADR requirements needing wipers and de-misters as well so will just be going with the small screen now. I had a Cad drawing sent to me of the Au chassis mods and yes it is different but will all the extra steel does not look a lot more rigid just a lot heavier.
Cheers Dave
|
|
|
Post by davefromdownunder on Aug 28, 2018 7:20:12 GMT
I was also wondering what you did for the coolant tubes to the rediator did you fit both on one side or run one each side. With the chassis mods it was not clear if both could still run on one side. With your ABS install does it only use the wheel sensors or did you need the G-sensor and the Acceleration and deceleration sensors, I was not sure if those were just for the electronic stability control or if the ABS used them. I know lots of questions. Haha. At the moment I have only questions until I can get pricing on my kit and order it.
cheers Dave
|
|
|
Post by perthwa on Sept 1, 2018 13:04:01 GMT
Have not done coolant tubes to the rediator yet, probably going to run one on each side. With the chassis mods , I have not even tried a test fit of the radiator pipes as I do not have them in my kit. With your ABS install: I basically disconected it after talking to Southam... so I have no idea what it requires... Mark II focus is very fussy though... not sure about honda...
I was not sure if those were just for the electronic stability control or if the ABS used them; ditto, I have no idea yet as I am good deal away from learning that...
Are you using aluminium or steel or stainless steel rivets? Haven't made that decision - do not have floor panel yet so that is not on my radar. Probably Aluminium.
I would like to bond the floor prior to powder coating as well. As far as I know... Bonding to floor before powder coating would PROBABLY contaminate powder process.
I was also considering installing aluminium composite panels in the side cabin area to help with intrusion protection and rigidity. NOTHING is coming through the Australian side panels...so I am using minimal panelling...
I had a Cad drawing sent to me of the Au chassis mods and yes it is different but will all the extra steel does not look a lot more rigid just a lot heavier: trust me IT IS a lot more rigid. My 100kg standing on the corner of the frame does nothing to the frame flex. There is NO WAY that Southam Engineering would add metal for any other reason than to stop flexing to meet DOT rules.
Hope that helps a bit.
|
|
|
Post by kiwicanfly on Sept 1, 2018 23:12:48 GMT
I would be well curious to see a cad model analysis of the two deisgns side by side. When is asked RTR for a cad model of the standard Rocket chassis purely for submission to our authorities they could not supply. Therefore curious how they proved the modified design met the Australian requirements.
|
|