Here in Dorset I'm building my Replicar in Malachite Green, I think mine is the last one Stuart made before he transferred production. I used a Luton van to transport it back to Dorset and it was brilliant, never moved in 250 miles. The Replicar body now hangs from my garage roof. My donor is a 1.8 MX5 which we bought brand new from New Coventry Mazda, it was registered 1st March 2000 and has now covered 125000 miles. I remember saying that we'd run the MX5 into the ground then use it to build a kit car: I think I'm the first person to build a truly one owner Replicar!
Here's a photo showing how the remains of my MX5 looked a couple of weeks ago. I managed to get rid of the body and associated parts by giving them to a mate who races one, he seemed very happy to have spare bumpers, doors, boot, bonnet and body shell, I can't think why! I've since dismantled the rear subframe for painting, but have been unable to push the driveshafts out of the hubs: I know they are a tight fit as the male splines have a helix to eliminate backlash, but any ideas? I also cannot separate the lower wishbone from the hubs, the long bolt appears siezed solid (disappointing after only 17 years and 125000 miles) again any thoughts about this would be much appreciated. Also there's a nice photo of Stuart and my mate Julian helping to load the Replicar into the van at MEV, I hope you like it.
I'm using "cubeupload" to image host the photos - any comments?
Replicar in Dorset. MX5 1.8 donor owned since new!
where in Dorset are you, have you added your location to the owners map?
drive shafts on my donor, similar mileage, needed a bit (a lot actually) of assistance with a brass drift and lump hammer (drift on shoulder of UJ to avoid impact damage). Alternative is a couple of crow bars or large screw drivers under lip and some force applied evenly (you might need another pair of hands for this approach).
Long bolt on lower wishbones: only one of mine had seized and I cut it to take wishbone off then removed in vice, wasnt bothered about cutting as I have replaced ALL bolts in suspension.
Welcome to the group and good luck with the build
oh and avoid trying to remove bolts that connect ppf to diff the associated aggravation simply isn't worth the effort and if you need to replace the bolt and sleeves you'll struggle as you cant buy them.
Post by Mills Extreme Vehicles on Sept 29, 2017 7:30:24 GMT
good work guys. Why remove the drive shafts, they are tough and can be left in and the uprights painted, they are forged so will not be as rusty as the bones. The lower bolt will need to rotate before you can bash it out. Try penetrating fluid for a few days, then a 1 m long bar to turn it/crack it, extreme force maybe required and a large person to stop the subframe from moving. If it won't rotate then a hacksaw is required but usually with enough brute force they turn and then free off enough to hammer out, but then you may damage the thread with the hammer (try putting the nut back on and whacking that) and need a new bolt in any case. I use a short stubby pointed chisel in the centre of the bolt. Good luck.