|
Post by buildercg on Aug 21, 2017 0:22:25 GMT
I needed 32mm spacers for my wheels to make up for the offset. Check out page 10 of my build for more info.
|
|
|
Post by p2tav on Aug 21, 2017 19:53:03 GMT
|
|
|
Post by gwnwar on Aug 22, 2017 8:15:54 GMT
As for the clutch a lot depends on what You are going to do with the car. Daily/week end, race a few times, all out race.. And what HP you are going to run.. As to what clutch to buy..Flying Miata has a few different set ups for different use and HP. They do post to the UK too. www.flyinmiata.com/
|
|
|
Post by p2tav on Aug 22, 2017 9:49:01 GMT
thanks gwnwar,
I think it will be more of a weekend toy so not too aggressive and it should be around 170bhp. I will have a look at the flyinmiata web site cheers:)
|
|
|
Post by p2tav on Aug 23, 2017 6:23:34 GMT
Had the day off yesterday i'm going to start the tear down today stripping the back end looks like I need new suspension as its got more rust on the bottom of the shocks then what I would be happy with has any one got any suggestions? does mk1 fit a mk2 2.5? and what would e the difference? its quite a bit cheaper to buy?? I will post some pictures later to show you how far I get, not looking forward to removing bottom bolt on rear bottom wishbones any suggestions would be welcome.
|
|
|
Post by Stiggy on Aug 23, 2017 16:08:27 GMT
|
|
|
Post by gwnwar on Aug 23, 2017 17:22:02 GMT
Spray all rusted bolts threads and wire brush.. The rear lower A arm is different NA>NB.. The long outer bolt can be a bear to get to turn and out.. They get rusty and bent just enough to not come out.. Keep the nut on the end just to cover the threads when you beat on it. If it won't come out just cut it both sides of the upright to remove and then remove pieces.. New bolts are about 20.00.. The hubs might be hard to remove to get them off first if you can.. Spray the lower shock nut in the A arm.. It may break loose in there.. It is only held in place with a couple and tabs.. If it comes loose try to hold with a screw drive or cut a little large hole in the bottom to get a wrench on it.. Post pics when you can.. Stay safe..
|
|
|
Post by p2tav on Aug 23, 2017 19:47:05 GMT
well what a day I've had a real nightmare today I new it would happen but boy does it get you when it does. I have had no luck getting rear bottom bolts out of the wishbones and to top it all off I decided to drain oil from diff to find bits of metal in the oil. I have looked this up and it says that its quite common with the super LSD? something about the clutch cone brakes up into 8 pieces. I have found about 4 of them so will have to open the diff to see if there is any damage, from what I can gather if the diff is ok it will work as a normal diff so it says ? Now for the good I rang Stuart today at MEV HQ and he gave me some good advice with regards my wheels, shocker springs and leaving the drive shafts in the hubs. This was most helpful along with the good advice from you guys in the forum I will post some pictures soon. Regards Paul
|
|
|
Post by p2tav on Aug 24, 2017 9:16:08 GMT
|
|
|
Post by gwnwar on Aug 24, 2017 17:31:12 GMT
You can cut off the two arms at the front of the rear sub on the rear frame bracket.. Not need on the build no place to bolt to.. Seeing as it will be a fun to drive car not all out race.. I would keep the rubber bushings in the rear end housing.. It will make for a nicer ride. For the control arms poly bushings they look nice, are harder ride and tend to make noise if not lubed as a service to them.zerk fittings installed in them.. Diff clutch is breaking up a little.. Rebuild if you have tools gauges and info on it.. Having it done is costly.. Getting another unit . it maybe in same condition as what you have.. I would drive it as is you can always replace it later.. You are coming along nicely, not as much rust as I thought there would be..
|
|
|
Post by p2tav on Aug 25, 2017 21:04:31 GMT
well busy at work today but been able to strip diff when I got home and removed all 8 of the broken tabs now just needs building back up . I have a 2003 6 speed gearbox and half way down underneath the gear box is a torx bolt? ? its not mentioned in the manual does anyone know what it is for? this is not the one that holds the selector for reverse.
|
|
|
Post by gwnwar on Aug 26, 2017 4:07:12 GMT
which side L/R.. pic would help..
|
|
|
Post by p2tav on Aug 27, 2017 7:56:25 GMT
hi gwnwar, i have attach some pics let me know if you find out what it is? when undone it has a small spring that is pushing on a ball bearing. its right next to the drain plug ??
|
|
|
Post by gwnwar on Aug 27, 2017 14:07:21 GMT
If you are not going to do a trans tear down put it back together and leave it.. It is a shift detent ball and spring for 6th gear.. Remember the drain and fill is on the left/exhaust side of trans.. You can also fill the trans through the shift turret.. 2 US quarts lube.. Can't do that with a 5 speed. If you don't have a FSM for a 6 speed. Check out www.miata.net/go to Garage Section then Engine Drive Train, to 6 speed trans info..
|
|
|
Post by p2tav on Aug 29, 2017 9:09:34 GMT
well I have been doing an hr hear and there as i've been working most of the time. I have finally got to the sandblasting stage and will start the painting and detailing as soon as parts come back,then the assembly will begin I just hope that I remember how it all goes back together. I have 3 bolts that need extracting so will start to sort them when the parts are back from the sandblasters. I have got some 2 part undercoat that I will brush on the sandblasted bits then I will spray a top coat and see how it looks. After all that it will be time to tackle the engine I will be doing the servicing while its on the stand as it should make it easier!!. I will post some pics when things start to come back
|
|