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Post by craigpusey on May 9, 2017 16:04:31 GMT
Ok so here is my donor car in all it's glory.   Now the fun begins. |
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Post by craigpusey on May 9, 2017 16:10:02 GMT
First things first I need to get it running right. Step 1 Plugs and leads  Old v New  New Leads  |
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Post by gwnwar on May 9, 2017 21:31:18 GMT
If you let the wife drive it you won't get it back for the build.
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Post by craigpusey on May 9, 2017 21:41:08 GMT
She smashed the door mirror off of my VRS yesterday, she's now no longer allowed in this. I'm going to sort the chassis out before I start the build. Already got a full set of performance disks and pads, fully adjustable coilovers and an induction kit on order. Next will be anti roll bars and drop links. Then some lower chassis braces.
Got to have a chassis worthy of putting an Exocet On otherwise I could end up having a nice new Exocet on a dog of a chassis, this way when the conversion happens it will be awesome out of the box.
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Post by gwnwar on May 9, 2017 22:08:32 GMT
Forget the lower chassis braces for the MX5 they won't be used on the Exocet only the front and rear sub units and the PPF
There is a kit to stiffen the PPF unit. As far as adjustable coil overs what spring rate will you get.. One for the MX5 might be to heavy for an Exocet.. What do you mean induction kit.. Will it fit under the bonnet of the Exocet??
If you are going to do the timing belt remember to read up on setting the intake cam VVT set up it is a little different then a non VVT engine..
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Post by craigpusey on May 10, 2017 5:54:57 GMT
I would use a cam locking tool for when I do the timing belt but I think while it's off I will get it ported. I've found two local companies, one that will strip, skim, clean, re-seat and profile the valves and the other who works with them does their cylinder porting. They don't take work directly and only normally do work for the motorsport industry.
As for the chassis braces I was looking at they only mount to the sub frames so should stiffen the PPF. Also the induction kit will take up no more room then the stock air intake and filter box so should be ok.
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Post by craigpusey on May 10, 2017 10:20:01 GMT
The coilover spring rate is 350/250 it's the softest of the 3 options they offer, figured that would suit it best after the diet.
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Post by gwnwar on May 11, 2017 5:29:42 GMT
Setting the can timing with a VVT engine is different then a nonVVT.. If you are going to pull the cam gears to replace seals..
Google miata setting cam timing with VVT for some reading
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Post by craigpusey on Jul 19, 2017 13:49:30 GMT
Ok so it's been a busy few months of chassis prep and upgrades. My exhaust system, Gaz shocks, EBC disks and pads, Green Cotton Twister air filter and IL Motorsport drop links have all arrived and been fitted. The exhaust sound great without being too noisy and the IL Motorsport drop links are really smart and work great with a tiny bit of modification mainly the addition of some glacier bushes, washers and nylocs in favour of the flange nut provided. Also fitted ultra racing front and rear anti roll bars. Mishimoto radiator and fan assemnley, Oil filter relocation kit and oil cooler which has made oil changes a breeze oh and an ME221 ECU.
Last weekend I removed all the front control arms after finding a worn bush preventing my wheel alignment from being done and while they're off I've had them sand blasted and had a fresh coat of chassis black. So this weekend I'm fitting Powerflex Bushes, IL Motorsport upper and lower ball joints and IL Motorsport Track rod ends and hopefully letting the tyres touch the tarmac for a few weeks.
The only bad news is that when I got the car dyno'd after fitting the ECU I found out that I was down on compression by about 10% on all cylinders so I either have glazed bores or worn rings. My guess is that because number four cylinder is reading the same as the others it's most likely to be glazed bores as normally that cylinder wears out quicker due to poor cooling. But that's another story.
In light of this I bought myself another engine to rebuild and turbo while the original is still in the car.
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Post by craigpusey on Mar 26, 2018 13:04:45 GMT
Right so it's been a while and a lot has happened behind the scenes. My Exocet G-Type kit is now ordered and should be with me by June, my engine is in pieces awaiting it's unification with the ACL race bearings, Manley rods, Wiseco 84mm low comp pistons, cometic head gasket and Boundary engineering oil pump I have sat all new and shiny in my garage, this can't happen until I decide what crank damper to fit and then it can go and be internally balanced.
My head is with Andy @ Cylinder Head Developments in Bromsgrove where it is getting a stage 1 port a polish, Supertec single valve springs and titanium retainers.
As for my chassis it's looking very sorry for itself, missing lots of parts and being dismantled slowly but should be fully stripped this weekend I hope.
Next step will be sending various parts of the sub frame, braces and lower control arms for media blasting before giving the m a coat of POR15 Rust and Top Coat if you've never heard of this stuff give it a look it might be magic. Then similar treatment for the rear diff and gearbox.
Just ordered a full set of Superpro bushes and M2 Motorsport adjustable upper control arms as well so hopefully fingers crossed by the end of April I should have fully prepped sub frames allowing be to move my attention to the Engine.
Hopefully some pictures to follow.
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Post by aterro on Mar 28, 2018 16:51:23 GMT
What are your bhp expectations on thenengine?
Standard head stuff is pretty solid. I know people who are 275 plus who have no problems.
It sounds good though!
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Post by craigpusey on Mar 29, 2018 6:02:17 GMT
What are your bhp expectations on thenengine? Standard head stuff is pretty solid. I know people who are 275 plus who have no problems. It sounds good though! Hi I have no doubt that it pushed it could easily run at 300hp+ at the wheels when finished. The main thing for me though is reliability, I don't want it pushed to the max so I will have it at around 250-275whp it should handle track days all day long at that. As for the head it's always a good idea to replace the springs due to age related fatigue, a set of Mazda stock springs are over £300. My supertec springs with retainers and spring seats cost me £260 shipped from America and are around 15% stiffer so should handle the increase in intake pressure created by the turbo. You probably could get away with stock springs but they would have to work harder and in my mind more likely to fail. |
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Post by craigpusey on Aug 6, 2018 20:07:14 GMT
Right so exciting times, my block is ready to be collected from being bored out and honed oh yeah and I finally collected my kit from MEV last Thursday and I have a few observations.
1. why does the bulkhead/firewall have to be made up of three pieces of aluminium like a metal patchwork quilt when it would be straight forward to make from a single piece. I've ordered a new bit of aluminium and will replace the original trio.
2. Does anyone else have G-Type side panels that are different lengths? my drivers side is 10mm longer then the passengers side. I used two narrow strips of the black plastic stuff on the passenger side to attach to the front and rear mounting points so they act as little spacers so the panel doesn't pinch when fixed in place and that works a treat and looks smart, with the drivers side I'm either going to end up with the side panel overhanging at the front or rear and looking terrible.
3. Why is the rear bulkhead made out of a piece of plasticy foamy stuff and not aluminium. Again I've ordered a piece and will replace this.
4. Did anyone else have issues mounting the triangular indicator on the front G-Type wings? I found a fix by removing material from the lower edge of the indicator but it really isn't ideal the mounting area could have done with being 5mm taller
5. The position of the fuel tank mounting tabs only make sense if the tank is installed facing the opposite direction that is was in the car yet every picture I can find shows the tank facing the other direction and the mounts in a different position. This isn't a major problem just a little odd.
That said I'm over the moon and can't wait to get this thing on the road!!!! Zoom Zoom
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Post by Stiggy on Aug 7, 2018 9:14:44 GMT
1. the front bulkhead is made in separate pieces to make it easy to fit, the joins are not seen unless you look under the dash.
2. the sides are slightly different but not noticeable unless you place them back to back.
3. the rear bulkhead is made from material that matches the standard sides but builders can use alloy if they feel this is better.
4. there is a very slight overlap for the triangular indicators as they are normally mounted on PU to tidy and seal.
5. The fuel tank tabs are correct.
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Post by hammy3601 on Aug 7, 2018 11:42:14 GMT
Hi mate,
My thoughts to your questions:
1. Others have made one piece, Ive kept mine 3 piece so the centre panel and tunnel can be removed for any future work (better access)
2. Not measured mine as yet
3. Thats what I thought but now its fitted it looks great and wont suffer rot/fatigue
4. Im selling my Gtype front ones and have bought a set of the older ones
5. Buy a Mk1 tank and problem solved
I hope that helps mate
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