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Post by browno on Apr 20, 2017 9:07:23 GMT
Good stuff - looks like we are both progressing at about the same rate - I got my shell collected at the weekend (and also felt the need to chop it in half, just to play with powertools really!) - cost me £30 but it is out of the way! Your donor does look quite a bit less rusty than mine did!
I have my rear subframe stripped down apart from one driveshaft that doesn't want to play and am working on the front - so hopefully might be able to get some bits off for powdercoating next week.
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Post by Stiggy on Apr 20, 2017 9:23:29 GMT
Always best to leave the rear drive shafts in, hard to remove and no point as the forged upright can be painted by hand, saves removing bearings and boots. The bones and subframes can look better if blasted and coated.
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Post by ciaoberto on Apr 20, 2017 11:58:14 GMT
Always best to leave the rear drive shafts in. Would you suggest leaving them in both ends of the shafts? Into upright and into diff? Thanks |
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Post by Stiggy on Apr 20, 2017 12:34:10 GMT
they pop out of the diff easy enough, nuts on the hub end can be hard work
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Post by ciaoberto on Apr 20, 2017 15:01:04 GMT
Ah I see. I've already got my hub nuts loose, does the shaft just 'slip' out once that's done? I'm having trouble dismantling the rear. Particularly these bolts:  20170420_145747 by Robert McClure, on Flickr I assume the inner sleeves of the bush are seized to the bolt. Plus the corrosion on the exposed centre (arrowed) of the bolt is adding resistance. I've wire brushed it with a drill bit and soaked it in Plus Gas, before giving it some 4lb persuasion to no avail. Hoping to have another go with fresh perspective tomorrow. Anybody got a magic trick to get them out? I'm using hand tools only, and the rest of the frame is precariously supported as so...  20170420_144838 by Robert McClure, on Flickr browno, how did you get yours free? I did however manage to get in touch with a gentleman who was keen to remove my body for me, he arrived promptly this morning and took it all away for FREE, saving me a mornings work and some fuel!!  20170420_094447 by Robert McClure, on Flickr When I bought the car, I noticed some oil at the back of the block, and replaced the CAS o-ring (which was rock hard and brittle) but it looks like there may also be a bit of a leak around the valve cover? Unless the CAS o-ring oil was likely to have made all of this mess?  20170420_102333 by Robert McClure, on Flickr How are you meant to unbolt the drive shaft from the diff? getting a socket/wrench on the rear of the bolts has proved impossible without rounding them so far. I was hoping to disconnect the from and rear so I could man handle the rear sub frame and really challenge my seized wishbone bolt. |
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Post by jsmith on Apr 20, 2017 17:35:10 GMT
Sometimes the bolts either get rusty or bent which makes them hard to take out. I would first try cleaning the rust off of the exposed part of the bolt, then try putting the nut on a few turns and tapping on the nut to get the removal process started. Hope this helps.
John Smith.
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Post by buildercg on Apr 20, 2017 17:53:54 GMT
Ah I see. I've already got my hub nuts loose, does the shaft just 'slip' out once that's done? I'm having trouble dismantling the rear. Particularly these bolts:  I assume the inner sleeves of the bush are seized to the bolt. Plus the corrosion on the exposed centre (arrowed) of the bolt is adding resistance. I've wire brushed it with a drill bit and soaked it in Plus Gas, before giving it some 4lb persuasion to no avail. Hoping to have another go with fresh perspective tomorrow. Those bolts were, shall we say, "challenging" for me to remove from my '92 donor. I worked on them every day for a couple of weeks before I could get them out. Fire, a couple cans of PB blaster, a 5 lb sledgehammer, and a 720 ft-lb impact wrench were my tools. I had to replace both bolts once removed due to damage I incurred. |
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Post by jsmith on Apr 20, 2017 18:01:49 GMT
X2 PB Blaster!
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Post by gwnwar on Apr 21, 2017 2:48:50 GMT
I haven't had any axle just slip out of the hub..most will need a press or puller..
You can leave it together and just paint the upright/hub and axle unit..
Take the backing plate off with a chisel and hammer. Before you put back together remember to drill the hole for the bolt to hold the wing bracket on.
To get that lower bolt out if it won't move I use a Sawzall and cut the bolt in pieces to free the control arm.. Then work on getting the pieces out.. The lower bolt bends in place so won't slide out whole most of the time..
When you replace the cam cover remember to put some sealant in the corners (6)of the cam towers to stop leaks from there..
Cam cover bolt torque 44>74 INCH LBS
Replace all the small coolant hoses too is a good idea..
Note which size bolt goes were to hold the trans to engine and starter..
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Post by Fin on Apr 22, 2017 9:35:50 GMT
Cam cover bolt torque 44>74 INCH LBS Note INCH Lbs. I had difficulty getting my analogue torque wrench to set so low, and (easily) snapped one off. Also remember, they go on/off in a specific order. |
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Post by browno on Apr 24, 2017 9:20:39 GMT
Good progress - and I can't add much on the long bolts either as mine are also in a similar state, I am planning on a long game with them and a combination of wire brush, emery wrapped around them, lots of penetrating fluid and it that fails, heat! (the mains impact wrench hasn't made any impact yet...)
Result on getting the body collected for free - I ended up paying the local scrappy £30 to come and get mine.
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ybot19
Junior
1990 eunos roadster
Posts: 32 
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Post by ybot19 on Apr 24, 2017 11:29:48 GMT
The drive shafts are a pain to remove from the hubs, one of mine just slipped out but the other was stuck in. As I was replacing the rear hubs anyway I just bought a used driveshaft from autolink mx5. They have all makes and models and only cost me £10.
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Post by ciaoberto on Apr 24, 2017 18:17:09 GMT
A little progress to report... I'd always planned to do AS MUCH of ANY work involved as I was able to, and so I decided to tackle the gruelling task of cleaning up and painting the running gear.  20170421_131747 by Robert McClure, on Flickr I started with the rear sub frame using flap discs and wire brushes to get back to as much bright clean metal on show without forcing the flap disc through the thing  Lots of awkward angles and crevices made for a long session and I'm certain I heard my neighbours sigh of relief when I turned off the grinder. I left it feeling satisfied with the finish...  20170422_152025 by Robert McClure, on Flickr However, when I returned to the job after a cup of tea, I had to admit it just wasn't going to do. Many more minutes of wire brushing and flapping revealed more clean metal under the crud and I quickly dusted off and brushed on the first coat...  20170423_155840 by Robert McClure, on Flickr It's probably not the best painting I've ever done, and powder coat would've saved me a whole lot of time and effort, but it should limit future the iron oxide and it certainly looks a whole lot better than it did!!  20170422_182100 by Robert McClure, on Flickr I was hoping to get more painting done on my day off this week, but it's forecast to be cold (8*C) so it'll likely be more cleaning of parts... oh, and.. getting in touch with MEV to order a kit. because that will come in handy later in the project. Questions to those wiser than I... 1. gwnwar you say use sealant in the corners of the cam turrets under the valve cover, would you, or anybody else, recommend a particular brand/type? It's not something I've done before and therefore is not something I have. 2.Do the front hubs have to be removed to fit the wing stays? (I know, I'm getting ahead of myself, but I'd like to have the tool ready) 3.Can someone explain the wheel spacer/offset thing? I've two sets of wheels and tyres. standard MX-5 ones and aftermarket with an offset of ET35. These would definitely require spacers, correct? If I got myself some ET0 wheels, but which are wider, would I still need spacers? Simply, what spec wheel will fit without spacers? Many thanks in advance good people!! |
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Post by gwnwar on Apr 25, 2017 3:51:59 GMT
For sealant I use Permatex RTV Silicone Gasket Maker.. Yes front hubs have to come off so you can get the backing plate off.
The hubs come slip off easy not like the rear..
Front axle nut torque is 123>159 ftlbs..
Rear nut torque 159>217 ftlbs
In the pic of the sway bar/drop links those bushing are shot dried and cracking. Replace the links with good used units or buy new. all NA first gen use the same ones front and rear.
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Post by ciaoberto on May 1, 2017 20:12:25 GMT
gwnwar, yeah, all of the bushes are pretty junky. I had originally hope to rebuild with them in place, but having actually seen them and removed all of the rear end bushes, replacing them is the only proper way to move forward.  20170501_131026 by Robert McClure, on Flickr  20170426_145313 by Robert McClure, on Flickr I also admitted defeat in trying to remove the lower upright bolts whole, and cut them. I've still to remove whats left in the upright, but the wishbone is now separate. I'll likely just cut/drill out the remaining piece.  20170501_114832 by Robert McClure, on Flickr A friend stopped by to show me his new toy!! The acceleration in this is BRUTAL. The soundtrack infectious and just look at it. Fantastic motivation.  20170501_171134 by Robert McClure, on Flickr Cleaned up the pedal assemblies too. I've got a new pedal set, but I think I'll save them for post IVA, just in case. Any body got any experience there?  20170501_201546 by Robert McClure, on Flickr I've ordered my kit and I figure it'll be ready mid July, fingers crossed I'm ready for it by then... |
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